Toppless72
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Posts posted by Toppless72
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Rock,
In my first response I mis-lead you on the type of horn connector you needed the members that described the pin, spring and clip collar are correct for the type of wheel you're using. the extention wire is for a different type of wheel.
If you don't get your supplier to send you what you need send me your address in a PM and I'll send you the kit you need. I have several of them.
Sorry for the confusion.
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Rock,
There is a spring loaded extention wire (4~5 inches long) that should have been in the horn kit. It is inserted into the horn slip ring and is connected to the horn switch installed after the wheel is installed.
on the hub, you should see a mark on the end of the steering shaft that marks the 12:00 position. The hub should have a corresponding mark to allow you line the hub up with the steering shaft in the correct position. Once the hub is on, the steering wheel is mounted to it using the 6 screws. You can also mount the steering wheel first and install it as an assembly.
Let us know how it's coming.
Joe
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Sam,
That GM three spoke is the one I have on mine. It feels great in your hands when driving.
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This one should work. If not they have a 1969 Chevelle verison also. It's a bit different but functions the same.
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Also, you should install the correct clutch switch so the engine will only crank when the clutch is depressed. This will eleminate the neutral start switch just like a factory standard shift car.
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Murphy,
If you simply place the shift collar in the park position and leave it there the steering wheel lock will work as well as the neutral start switch and your ability to remove the key. You'll have to go to the bottom of the column and tie the shift arm up with a zip tie or wire so it won't slip down but that's it.
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Murphy,
If you are not planing to install the back drive rod to the column from the reverse shift lever you will not have backup lamps. Also, I beleive you will need to rotate the shift collar to the correct position to get your key out of the ingnition. F.Y.I.
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Murphy,
My complete edit didn't get coppied in my last post. This explaination came from a wiring forum at another web site. This is how it works but I didn't write it.
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Here's how the system works...
Each dummy/idiot/warning/tell-tale lamp has one side of their filament connected to switched ignition power, meaning the other side needs a low resistance path to ground to make them illuminate.
When you turn the key to "on" switched battery power on the pink dash wires provides the 12 volts.
Since the engine isn't running yet, the oil sender's terminal is grounded, so the oil light comes on.
If the emergency brake is engaged or there is an imbalance of pressure in the system, that brake sender line is grounded and the brake light comes on.
Since the engine isn't running yet, 12 volts is being sent via a resistance wire into the voltage regulator where the field relay hasn't activated yet, this relay is providing this path of limited current to the rotor aka field in the alternator to ensure charging will take place due to the magnetic field that is being created. As soon as the engine starts turning the weak magnetic field of the spinning rotor induces current in the stator windings. There is a tap in the windings of the stator that is used as a "health check", this is the relay line (white wire) that sends roughly less than half normal system voltage back to the voltage regulator's field relay. With enough voltage to trigger the field relay, it pulls in and links battery voltage to the voltage regulator relay (the other relay inside the voltage regulator) and thus controls how much current flows into the field of the alternator to keep system voltage at the proper level. When that field relay picked, it also put 12 volts on the other side of that resistance wire. The GEN light is basically in parallel with the resistance lamp, so with 12 volts on each side of the bulb, there is no potential difference and the bulb goes out.
If the engine stalls, or there is an alternator failure, that white "health check" aka relay wire looses power, relay looses power and now the dash bulbs other side sees low resistance path to ground, thus bulb comes on.
What I just explained is for externally regulated alternator set-ups.
When you turn the key on, the temp or hot light doesn't come on. GM provided a lamp test circuit so the driver is certain the bulb isn't burned out at start-up.
When you hold the key in on the "cranking" position, the key switch actually sends a ground out to the other side of the hot/temp bulb and it lights up. This lamp test line is simply spliced into the temp sending line on a dummy light car.
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The oil light comes on.
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I'm with you Sam! That GM 3 spoke wheel feels great in your hand. I'm using one just like it from a 1971 Corvette and the Chevelle horn cap like in the your picture.
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Love the pictures... keep them coming.
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I've only been to Minneapolis once but I've flown over it a bunch of times on my way to Japan. lol Nice looking place from the air though. LOL
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I love wiring... You may think I'm joking but it's really the truth. I'd rather work on wiring and wiring problems than most anything else. Looks like a fun project to me.
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Could you contact the maker of the heads and see if they know what headers would work? They should know.
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The red car in picture 3 has a fender mounted radio antenna. I have been considering going that route. The one in the glass just doesn’t do very well if you’re more than 10~15 miles from the station’s transmitter.
It looks like it was a nice show.
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Thank you. Wiring and wiring issues are my favorite things to troubleshoot on these cars.
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Yep.
With warning lamps 1972_with_lamps
With Gauges 1972_with_gauges
Try these.
By the way... My manual shows the Monte Carlo and Chevelle to be the same but if anyone knows of any differences I would like to hear about them.
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I'm not too good at creating links but if it works, I believe this will help you.
It takes a minute to load but its worth the wait. just give it time. Also, make sure you look at all the pages of the post.
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Sam you are correct. I just noticed I wrote the wrong thing in my first post. If I write one thing while thinking another does that mean I'm getting OLD!!! LOL Sorry for the confusion.
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That is the temp. sending unit between the spark plugs. The oil sending unit is on the top of the engine block in the rear below the distributor. It should have a single dark blue wire going to it.
On this unit it does make a difference which wire goes on which side. Look at a 1971 wiring diagram to determine which way it goes.
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Eric,
I can't comment on whether that B85 belt moldiong usage would equal the "Custom" Z03 or not. That option was avaiable on any Monte sold. A person could check that box on the order form for "non-Custom" cars too.
However, the cruise control does seem to be a rare option. It could also be ordered on any Monte but it does seem to be on very few cars.
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Thanks Larry. It always surprises me when it just starts right up after sitting so long. The battery is the one that's been in it since I bought it in 2006. Who knows how old it is but it must be a good one.
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After seeing some of the pictures others have posted I thought I would go pull my M/C out and take a ride. Last time it was out was June of last year 17 months ago. She started up and ran like I had driven her yesterday.
Here she is sitting under the trees in the driveway.
trying to get a grip on 72 custom production #
in SS 454
Posted
My '72 Custom was ordered in Spring Green, code 36. Not the color I would have picked if I was ordering it new but.... It can be another color someday.
It's a 350 Car