V8Freak
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Posts posted by V8Freak
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Leo at Koniks klassiks has the used one and can get me the new dynacore one for 325, he's in Michigan and I'm in Kitchener Ontario takes me about 2.5 hours too get too his front door, he just advised that he heard the reproduction ones can be a real treat too fit
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What brand does the parts place offer? I'm really up in the air about what I want too do lol. Even the originals are weak near the globe box. I broke my original, bought a parts car with a nice dash, had it out putting pieces back together came in last no day too work and it was in 2 pieces. I actually had too take the rest of the day off work I was so angry. Both broke near globe box
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So just a question on the new dashes you can buy, if anyone has bought them how do you find the fitment? I'm stuck on gettin a used dash that is in ok shape but needs some tlc for 300 or buying a brand new one for 320, I know nothing fits like an original but I also don't wanna spend hours repainting Chrome and the dash itself whereas the new one in sure looks great and been told it looks good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
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I'll get these clips on the car and mounted how I think it should be and then post a few pics and see what you guys think
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Ya that's exaxtly how mine is! I was like [you said a naughty!] lol, but a old school mechanic said that isn't abnormal, also I did check our 72 and it does have the clips in the bottom, I think they are generic I've seen those on a lot of old school gm's not saying there exactly the same but looks damn close. Also for the too rad cover/support I don't know exact names, is there a big block one that will work? I had too cut a few ridges away and use rad mount rubbers from a late 70's trans am that had a stock 4 core so that they'd for the rad properly, seems tight but you can tell I slightly modified it lol
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So I've put a 4 core rad in my car, also I had too buy a 2 piece big block fan shroud, now my question is the fan shroud does not cover the entire rad which is still the same dimensions as my stock rad.
I'd say it covers about 80%, is this normal? It is aftermarket. Also what holds the bottom of the shroud in place?
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So I got that bracket installed and it helped a bit but there is still contact with the shifter assembly and the hump so that didn't fix the problem. I'm only other option now is buying the hurts comp shifter and cross my fingures that it will work but I'm swaying too the side that it will not work unfortunately. May just have too go with original 4spd cross member and originally [you said a naughty!] linkage setup
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Ya the rails are in pretty decent shape minus some minor pitting, my cars going too have a low stance and I'm 6'2 so I'm going too see in behind the rail everytime I get in the car and I'm OCD with this thing so it's gonna bug the crap out of me
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It's more where the water would sit at the bottom where it mates too the actual roof, I don't think the trim goes down that far, best way too describe it would be if your getting in your car and you were too look behind the trim on the gutter part of it
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Hey guys so my cars back at body shop getting some touch ups, the guys and old boy and has done really good work and I don't like too give anyone a hard time but I'm having an issue. So I'm not sure the exact name for it but basically the channel that runs along the too of the side windows where the trim clips too I think it's basically too catch rain and not allow it too drip down. Anyways I was expecting it too be nice and smooth but he seems too be having trouble, he's don't a great job on the rest of the car but says he doesn't want too build it up too much because the trim may not go on properly. Should I except this? Is it really that difficult of a spot too clean up and make pretty?
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I'm not at that point yet wish I
Could help
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Yes, the shifter lever comes up almost dead center to the hump, possibly just a fuzz towards the driver. Sorry I didn't get any pics as I had to catch a plane but when I get back I'll post pics. Then I'll be starting the pedals/clutch linkage, etc.........
My biggest concern was where the shifter handle was going too sit , I have the console hump so not a lot of room for error. Don't want too buy a third shifter and still not have it work out for me. Nice thing about the pedals is they work with the original brake pedal bracket atleast
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Yes, I'm going for the 4-speed w/bench seat & yes, I have the non-console hump.
Dan, if you look closely at the pic in the very first post, you can see the yellow stands behind the front wheel. I thought about the position of the car, but the doors open fine and the seems at the door are good. I'm thinking that when the car is on the ground that the driveshaft length might even be a bit shorter???
So did you find the gear shifter itself came out of the floor pretty centre with the tunnel? I'm just asking because I'll be ordering the same one shortly
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So is your car going too be a 4spd bench? Did you buy the tranny hump?
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My car is a 70 anyways so a non vented tank would be correct for my car?
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I don't remember what at all, I don't recall having anything like that, I have another 70 sitting buried in the snow I may have too go back and dig it out and take a peak
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Where would it vent too some sort of charcoal canister? I'm not really sure what I had I ripped this thing apart 7 years ago
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So I was going too order a fuel tank today and apparently there were different options? He asked if I had 2,3 or no vent lines? [you said a naughty!] lol, so I look at opgi websites and there's two different options:
W/o EEC
3 vent w/EEC
Can anyone clarify this for me?
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Awsome guys thanks again
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When I installed AC and PS on my BB, I had to switch to a 3-groove crank pulley (1 larger diameter and 2 smaller but the same size). Do you also have factory Power Steering?
Oh ya power steering forgot about that. Yes I do
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I know you stated you don't want Aluminum, but this is one of the best out there. http://www.dewitts.com/collections/cheve...or-manual-28-25 If you are on the Team Chevelle Forum, they will give you a discount. It's basically the same as a 4 row Harrison Copper Radiator, but made out of Aluminum. I'm switching my Copper Harrison 4 Row to this shortly if you're interested in used. It's currently cooling a 496.
Those are nice rads, problem for me is in canada it's not so easy herring certain things. I call all the jobbers for rads and most of them have too order from the us so price gets up there really easy
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So I have too order pulley's, I'm wondering a bbc 70 monte with ac how many grooves does the crank pulley need? 1,2 or 3?
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I really don't want too go aluminum, have had not so good experiences with
How long they last. I know they cool well but leaks are a problem with them. And most new rads are all throw away and can't be repaired. There all off shore these days. And even those are all pushing $400, I like the thought of these old copper or brass tanks that can be repaired forget what there made of exactly. And I could go 2 row but why go through the work and have the car potentially overheat? I see it all the time old muscle cats overheating. I'd rather have the peace of mind us once I'm done building the cat it may just get charged lol. Probably not
But you never know. I see they make grommets for a 4 row I'm just wondering I'd there's much altering that needs too be done? I know if I do my original tanks and a 3 row no problems but again I'd like 3 1/2" tanks
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So another question suprise! Lol. Well I'm realizing slot of new rads are garbage these days and have been told my many too get the oldies for quality and because you can repair them. So my car was 350 and is now 454, my original 2 3/4" tanks can only be built up too a 3 row radiator. So I whent out back and robbed the rad out of out I think it is a 76 turbo trans am with 31/2"tanks which is what you need for a 4 row so before I spend the 400 bucks too rebuild it I'm wondering if anyone has had fitment problems with the 31/2" tanks (4 row) rads in the rad saddle etc?
70 reproduction dash
in Interior Tech
Posted
Is that a dynacore?