V8Freak

I figured it out. Apparently it's the same bracket

So still waiting on my parts lol. Another question I have is pedal mounting, so my original brake pedal mount doesn't look like it will work. Any of you guys that have done the conversion have any advice on how you solved this?

Seen your vid on YouTube, sounds so sexy got a chubby lmao

I want my car too perform, it's a 70 ls5 should be making around 400-450hp, I want it too sound as badass as possible but not overkill or hurt performance

I'll honestly probably leave it relatively stock. Maybe an inch or two for a sleeker stance not sure yet. Ive been told 3" is over kill and too go with 21/4 or 21/2,

So brainstorming some ideas for exhaust setup. What I'm thinking is 2 1/2" exhaust, X piped. Mufflers are going too have a vacuume operated door too allow axhaust too bypass for when I really wann giv er lol. Basically my question is what size exhaust do you guys run? Do you do straight exhaust or do you H pipe or X pipe it. What size engines do you run? I ask because I've heard x pipe is the way too go and will give you more hp but if the application isn't right it doesn't allow enough back pressure too build up actually hurting acceleration

ARP sells them, I got mine through partsource but I'd imagine most jobbers can get them. Came in a pack of 6 best quality as far as I'm concerned.

I think about 2 quarts I'd get 3 just incase

I found one for mine but... I almost didn't and had a few guys say just take some hard Bristol board or something like that and trace it along the bottom half of the bell housing along with the holes. Then use the template and make a nice cover out of aluminum or steel or tin or whatever you want.

I ordered the shift plate and z bar bracket today so fingures crossed, Im going too test got the bracket with my comp plus shifter if it does the trick I'll order the shifter you guys have suggested

That helps a lot thank you!! I'm going too order that mount in the next day or two

Yes it is

Interesting that's exactly what mine looks like! Even when I tore the car down when it was an auto it was bolted directly too the frame. Well summit doesn't offer that shift ate found two on Amazon one is $27 one is $100 lol hmm which one too buy lol

I will call hurst and get that mount you guys are suggesting in the next few days, I have been told by Leo at koniks klassiks I believe he said the original 4spd cars mounted solid too the cross member no rubber mount at all?! Either way first step is too get the mount plate and get this shifter ordered

Seems like Dennis is on too something with that write up he did a page or two back. I think that shifter set up from hurst is going too be the answer too my problems that you suggested Sam. Dennis, what will you be doing for a trans mount too the cross member? I realize that 2" rubber I have isn't supposed too he there and is probably going too be the answer as too why my tranny is sitting up too high

Aw ok wasn't sure that's what I thought I'm kind of all over the place right now with this ordeal lol

p4m10a is my date code When you say mounting are we talking the piece inbetween the trans and cross member?

Actually tail stock just says muncie 1970-74 check these charts out http://www.myss396.com/ChevelleInfo/Transmissions/Muncies.html

Going by the chart I would agree with you except my serial numbers are all calling it a 1971 m20, I ran tail stock number, trans number and date code all pointing to m20, again from what I've reaserched the muncies whent too three bolt holes instead of 5 part way through 1970 I believe. Which makes sense since yours is an earlier 1970 tranny it would fall under the older generation. Even my tail stock number falls under a m20

Like Leo said I should not have that 2" rubber mount between the tranny and the cross member either, not 100% what I'm Looking for too mate the tranny too the cross member but ill reaserch that ore also. Definitely making some progress here thanks too all you guys! I'd be so lost right now if it wasn't for all of you and the time you have all taken out of your schedules too help me try and figure this out. Definitely getting it sorted out slowly but surely lol

Thank you Dennis this information helped a lot I'll have too reaserch all this new info And call hurst too find out some info also

Seems like 1970 was the year they changed the bolt pattern you must have an earlier 1970 m20, would you happen too know your tail housing number?

Well I chatted with Leo at koniks klassiks, said my mounting is definately wrong. I guess these cars with the 4spds were mounted solid too the cross member and did not have that rubber mount inbetween like I do so I'll have too figure out where I can get the proper mount and if that will work with my cross member or if I will have too buy the 4spd cross member. Everything about my tranny is a era correct m20 muncie tail stock numbers match with transmission bit from 1971 so unless gm used late 60's muncies in these cars I should be good that way. All muncies from atleast 71 if not 70 only had the 3 holes. So basically I gotta drop my tranny down use a different mount see if that will work for me, now the fun of finding it. Also hurst will take returns if the apication they say will work does not work so I just need too confirm that and get a hold of the shifter

Leo wants me too call him, he' gas like 5 or so it looks like he's restoring currently 2 are 4sod conversion so I'll give him a buzz see what he has too say. Said it's too much too explain over email. That gear shifter would be the best solution for me.

I guess the only option is getting a 4spd crossmember and getting the proper set up, its definitely money I wasn't planning on spending that's forsure