judge
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Posts posted by judge
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I think that fuel pump will work fine and the tank looks perfect. It looks similar to what Im using. Jjs
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I have a LS1 and Im running hotchkis and global west suspension It has the hotchkis sport springs lowered about an inch in the front. Hope that helps Jjs
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Sad news. Rest In Peace Ronnie. My condolences to his family.
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Hey Jared
I would say the only way to do this on a budget is to find it all in one shot as you stated. I had to get the pulley set up and all the accessories needed alternator/ power steering etc... I know to fit the lines to my power steering the had to make and braise some fitting to match old steering box to new pump again I can take photos for you just let me know If you find the deal for all the stuff. Good luck I hope it goes your way. Jjs
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Your right I do remember that conversation. I did it again coming back from Kelowna this year with a full tank and doing the speed limit (close anyway) when the tank is full I only use around a half a tank. Keep in mind at higher speeds the mileage goes way down as we are pushing shoe boxes through the air. As I've said Ive never thought to find out my mileage but If you are getting roughly 23mpg Then I must be getting close to 30mpgs on the highway. So I guess the moral of the story is do ask me my MPG's as its obvious I have no Idea When I had this car in my mind the last thing I was worried about was mileage its just an added benefit.
As for any pictures that are needed for this conversion Just ask what pic's you want and Ill take a plethora of them and send them to any email you like and I'll send large photo files for good detail. Im sure between Chris and I any info on how it all fits in there should be a snap looking at our cars. -
In Vancouver BC it only matters what comes out the tail pipe. As far as emissions are concerned. If you want the classic insurance (cheap fantastic deal 300 per year) then your car has to have everything it came with. and has to be stock or period correct add ons I cant see how they can give you a ticket if your emissions are with in the emissions limit of the year of vehicle. I can tell you I owned a 72 with a big block and it had the air pump on it and that was in Calgary Alberta. I hope you can get it worked out that's a bummer Man. Jjs
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Your right I don't get 30mpg. But on the high way at the speed limit I get good gas mileage What it is exactly i don't know and really wasn't worried about it. Although I'm sure its close to 20mpg if not more although now with the cam its a bit less I'm sure keep in mind when you put your foot into it and exceed the limit by way to much you will no longer care about gas mileage either. I went with a crate LS1 had the cam and the top end fully rollerized and I use a system called a VEMS ECU Its fully tunable and I'm quite happy however if you can get a factory harness I would recommend that. This kind of modern set up is great for economy and performance. As for a list of parts I would say you will need the motor the mounts the pully system, The ECU and harness and If you are going with the vette trans it will also require a harness and the shifter will have to be designed to work. I would stick with a 700r4 they need no electronics you will have to get the drive shaft shortened, electric fuel pump and baffled fuel tank (if you dont it will drive you nuts at half full and going around a corner) If you can find a engine and harness with computer out of a wreck and its a good deal then it would be a great thing to do. Oh yeah also you will need to set up a way to do your rad hoses as they need to be custom (look at Chris's or my car) I would be glad to send you some pics of things if you really want to do this swap.
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Yep It was a lot of fun! Big Kudos to Deb She A ton of cooking work and such to make things go all smoothly. It was Fun till the last night when I screwed something in my trans. The car got me home but so has some bad a** sounds coming from the transmission Ill have to look at it later this week, just dont have time What ever it was it made a awful squeal wine type sound just before I was shifting from 2nd to 3rd It could be torque converter or bearings or worse. It did however make the drive without incident from Ferndale back to Vancouver Canada. When I got into town and was stopping at light the shifts felt sluggish and it had a very soft rattling sound. Anyway the Best workmanship award made me feel good. And I must say the company in this club are all great people and fun to be around. My wife and I fell in love with Deb and Jake's two white boxer dogs, I could not give those dogs enough attention They were fantastic my camera is full of Dog photos from the weekend not cars believe it or not. I think Jake and Aaron should post some picks as they took some photos of the cars and all of us I think and their cameras are way better than mine. I know that Bills (pocobill) car was acting up as well with carb issues so we had two vehicles that had issues but hey, that's hotrodding for ya. Thanks for a great weekend everyone! Jjs
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Oh I had to pipe in on this one. Yes the tank needs to be a type of tank that has a "bowl" or baffling around the pick up Mine would stall out around corners when low until I put in a new tank designed for fuel injection. It still has a vent tube. Chris might want to crawl around mine for a while when we meet in Ferndale I also had problems with the fuel pump the first time. Now it all workes real well but when the tank is REALLY low you can still run into the no fuel issues around corners and hard acceleration. I just had a bunch of engine work done and I would recommend a VERY good tuner and a Dyno to finish off and "see" where all the issues are. Thats what I just did and it's dam near perfect now. Good luck Chris and looking forward to meeting you. Jjs
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That's heart breaking for his family. My sincere condolences to his family. Rest in Peace Robyn.
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Yes it will work The drive shaft needs shortening , the motor mounts need to be different,You will need to have electric fans. The trans mount will need relocating. You will need a electric fuel pump and a baffled gas tank. you will need to tweak your exhaust to mate up with what ever manifold or header you get. The oil pan may need to be changed mine was for the "F" body (firebird) it fits the shape of are cross member perfectly. The computer will fit behind the glove box You will need the rad hoses custom some how Flex hose, aluminum inset tube what ever you like, An Ls1 is in my car but I did not go with a computer controlled trans as I thought the 700r4 would work fine and It does. Thats most of what I thing was needed for the change. Good luck with it eh! Jjs
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I think the ratchet effect is that it will shift into each gear like a stock floor shifter but it will not go farther wit than one gear each push in a stock shifter you can bump it from low all the way to neutral with one push, it just (Bumps)over each detent without stopping at each gear space. But with a ratchet shifter like the B&M quick silver you have to "click" it through each gear it will not ride through all the detents with out relaxing the shifter arm after it goes into each gear it will only go one gear at a time I hope that is explained well enough. Jjs
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Heres a web site that I used I went from a 2:73 to a 3:42 This site will help you make the calculations and tell you what gears you need. and also you will likely need a new driven gear housing as i did because the gear will be to big to fit in the houseing.
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Sorry forgot about the exhaust and fan shroud. I went with electric fans on a thermostatic control as the new vette motors dont have fans, I ditched the shroud(not needed) the exhaust for those engines should be a nice free flow (mandrell bent if possible) at least 2.1/2" for good exhaust flow. I myself would not use the stock exhaust(too small) The motor mounts are custom pieces available at I think JEGS or lordco Having said all this I think there are some great forums on the web for this and Hot rod has a good article on this swap. Im not sure where but if you search this forum you will find a link to it. Again Good luck eh! Jjs
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Hey John I need to write tis out in word or something. Hopefully this will explain most of it. If you are putting in an LS engine Im assuming this as you are looking for the computer.
You can use a stock wiring harness from a Vette however you will have to go with the Vette trans as well if you use the stock harness because its set up for an electronic trans you will have to rig up a different shifter mechanism, This is why I when with a 700R4 it has an over drive and no electronics. I went with a VEMS ecu as it is fully tunable. You could go with a mega squirt fuel management system or any one you like you just need a reliable system to fire the plugs and injectors. You will need an F body oil pan for your LS you will need to drop your trans mount back. Your better to go with a serpentine belt system instead if the old stuff as it will cause to many mods needed. I don't have air in mine but you will probably need a newer style compressor for fitment. your rad hoses will need to be custom spliced with aluminum pipe unless there is a full rubber one for this application I don't know about. If you go with the 700r4 trans you will need a spacer to move the fly wheel from the back of the motor. If you use the vette trans you will need a electronic speedo. I redid all my gauges and the dash to fit Autometer but still went with a cable speedo. the tach can be wired through the computer all other gauges can be wired to the comuter and the sending units respectivly. I went with a painless 18 circut wireing system as I wanted all new and it did make wireing the comuter in easier. Hope this helps a bit and gets ya started. Jjs
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Build it any way you like and fake any paper work just so you can admire to your self when you look at your great forgery job and when it come up in conversation TELL THE TRUTH AND LAUGH I just made the paper work and did the stamping for the fun of it I would never try to sell it as a real(SS, RS, Yenko, etc) you might be a bit finicky for details and a bit odd for doing so but its your car. But you wont look like a complete a** and if you do try to sell it and miss represent what it is then it is simply fraud. Not a cool thing to do and And if caught you will look like a complete A** I have seen some great clones I don't care if they are clones they look great just don't try to sell me you clone when I want the real thing and you lied. It seems we are all on the same page here. just my little rant.. Jjs
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Wow! Man that looks like a HUGE event! fantastic cars and you all look like your havin' a great time. Thanks for sharing the photos. awesome shots. Jjs
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Well I got another piece of the puzzle The oil pan to go with is an "f" body oil pan . If you get a "Vette" LS1 it will have a different style pan and wont fit. If you use the F body pan it will fit the contours of the cross member almost perfect. Jjs
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Well Ill let you know as best I can what had to be done with mine.
I switched to an 2002 LS1 with LS2 exhaust and custom fuel rails and the trans I went with was a 700r4.
The Issues I know about Are: The Motor mounts had to be custom they are available on line
They had to move the trans mount back to accommodate the longer trans.
They used a custom power steering reservoir.and a entire LS kit for the pulley system.
They had the make custom rad hoses
They had to go with another oil pan as the low profile (wide winged) oil pan didn't fit
They used a Bosch fuel pump and a Audi filter. I have now ordered a gas tank with internal baffling (made for fuel injection) a sending unit and separate fuel pump to pair with the Audi pump as I find when the car is low on fuel it surges when air get in the gas line around a corner (not good ) this is the only issue Ive had since having it done
And that is the crux of the matter I didn't do it! I had two great guys that do awesome work figure out this swap. I have spoken with them again as I'm going away and they will probably be doing the gas tank swap, they found me the deal on the gas tank. Some people have asked about this and Ive said I will try to get some part numbers for people regarding the motor mounts, the LS pulley system, and the oil pan Those are the only big issues I can think of. I have been on a web forum called LS1 .com/forums i think the guys used some of this info for the swap and It may have the part#s or the outlets you can get them from . If I can get more info for everyone that want its I will try to get some of these answers And as ive done for some others if you want pics of anything just send me a Pm and ask. Jjs
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Thanks I would have never have thought that. I was simply worried about a stray rock getting in there but it hasn't happened in two years. I thought It might look cleaner with a cover but the less heat thing sounds good! Thanks for the theory! Jjs
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Ive received a few private messages regarding the LS vette engine swap in my car, and thought Id pass this bit of info that just occurred. I went to get a new trans cover for my fly wheel and torque converter as we never put one on. After buying a new one through GM for a 700R4 and trying to fit it on and due to the oil pan being so close to the fly wheel the cover will not fit even with modification it still WONT FIT!! Sooooo... since a LS1 and a 700R4 are a custom fit. Spacers for the torque converter to fly wheel are used for the proper clearance. These clearances are tighter than anything stock,(between the fly wheel and oil pan) so to make a long story short If you do this exact swap you will need to make a custom trans flywheel cover. So Live and learn eh! For anyone that asked sorry I missed this problem. Jjs
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Scotts absolutely correct there is no separate lever to shift at all. Ive had the star shifter from B&M years ago on my Camaro and it did have the extra lever.Pain in the a**! not the Quicksilver it is a very slick full time ratchet shifter I believe it is there top of the line street/strip shifter they do have some hard core shifters for just racing, I think. But this shifter is for street or stip I cant say anything bad about this shifter mine also came with two small micro switches so you can wire up reverse lights and a neutral switch for safety and it all works perfectly since I put it in. And it has always felt solid Jjs
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YeS It did just bolt up to the ls1 We thought it needed a spacer but If I remember correctly it didnt need anything in the end just the correct flywheel. Jjs
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My drive shafy did have to be shortened. I never asked how much though. I hope someone corrects me if im wrong but I thought all 700r4 are'nt actuly manual kick down but that cable is a line pressure regulator not a cable that pulls the TH350 or TH400 into second but a cable that makes the fluid pressure (drop or rise im not sure) to make the tranny drop into second it has to be set up correctly so as not to burn out the tranny. Just throwin' that info out there to let ya know not to treat the kick down on the 700r4 the same as a th350. Hope the swap goes well!! Jjs
coil springs for LS2?
in Brakes and Suspension Tech
Posted
The handling and ride are excellent. I had it lower slightly so mine sits lower than a stock Monte. So for me the stance is great it has a nice rake from back to front. Yes you do save weight with an all aluminum engine the LS1 is all aluminum as well. Im not sure how much but i think its substantial. I think you will want to see it in the car first then possibly have the spring cold cut to lower the car to the height you would like. I'm sure you know this but don't take a torch or any heat to a spring to lower it. Just throwing that out there just in case. Good luck cant wait to see the finished project. Jjs