KWick_70MC
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Posts posted by KWick_70MC
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Hotel reservations made.. Registration sent in..
All dressed up and nowhere to go!!
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Can the canadian connections order them for us down in "can't see what's behind me land" and then we pick them up at a show?
If they are available anymore..
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You should drive down to High River next weekend. A few of us getting together for the show on the 23rd.
I would love to see the car all done..
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I'm in, I'm in, oh have I said I'm in!!!! Nice choice Aaron.
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I am making it this time...
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I am sure you all read this, but:
One source, Chevrolet by the numbers, shows CRN for a 1970 Monte Carlo 454/360 with TH400 where another source, Chevelle, Malibu & El Camino ID numbers 1964-87 shows the CRN code for a manual/4-speed. Every Chevelle LS5 buildsheet I have shows RT for an LS5 w/manual transmission and RQ for an LS5 w/TH400. A Monte Carlo LS5 buildsheet shows RN for an LS5 w/TH400. I'll take the information on a buildsheet over other published data.
Has anyone ever seen a CRN in a Chevelle? I know who cares.. :-} BUT.....
The question should be, can he give us the VIN off the deck, so someone may be able to get their block if so desired?
Nothing like an orphan finding a home!!!
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WOW that looks great... great pictures of progress and the finshed product..
Thanks for sharing!!
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Either way, surely looks good so far. Now the paint makes sense, and a great idea. I have kicked around a second car for a daily driver, and putting in a stick.
Are you going to Penticon, and are you gonna bring the car?
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Kelly, why did you paint the edge white, to further cut the hole for the tranny?
I have read many threads elsewhere that mods for the tunnel are required, but not if you get one of the RS tranny's from keisler. I am really curious if they are spot on with what they sell.
402 with a 5 speed.. and no mods... hmmmmm!!
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Kelly, looks good.. It is going to be an awesome setup.
The center console looks great as well.
=== Thanks for sharing :-}
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Nice looking and sounding car build
she will be a beauty when your done!!!!
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Keith.. awesome informative post!!
Site rule number 1.. no pics didn't happen... so lets see the goods!!!
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Man, that is looking nice.. can we see some pics of the new tranny going in too??
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Most shade tree mechanics do.. Hate wiring that is..
Because there is NO real rhyme or reason on the colors between car makes and models..
Having a detailed wiring diagram is the only way to go.. That way you figure out what is crap and what isn't..
grand dad is a smart man, thats why...
Become VERY good friends with Darren (LS5), he is the shiznit when it comes to the wiring on these cars..
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mrj52 (aka Tim) knows more about Muncie Transmissions than anyone I know.
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Looking good... thanx for sharing pix....
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stock is 60 amps, I would say that 110 amps will be plenty to handle what you need..
I strongly recommend that you run seperate wiring for your sub and radio accesories.
They put heavier brushes and pickups with the same properties and it does not create more voltage, just more amperage (current), and the regulator works in tandem to accomplish it.
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The regulator is exactly that.. The alternator produces a "dirty" signal from the turning of the brushes, the regulator has a bunch of circuits inside that clean it up, and make sure it stays a constant 14V's and a constant current. Thats why I was saying that no matter of the motor is idling or going 3500 rpm, it stays the same..
Yes it can go bad and push too much juice too...
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Take it to autoparts store and have it checked. It is free for most parts houses..
another shade tree mechanic way to check it, is to disconnect the battery while she is running, and if the car dies, it is bad..
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How long have you had the radio in the car?
did it start as soon as you installed, or something new??
Do you just have a radio, or do you have subs etc etc in there??
rust acts as a capacitor and so will drop ALL of your voltage aross that junction, but not allow any current flow across the junction. So your wiring is getting hot in areas that it should not, due to current flow trying to get to the other side of that "capacitor" rust. As the engine revs the ignition requires more juuce to run the car, and the alternator, not like people believe, it only outputs 14V's dc at 60 amps, whether your driving 3500 rpm, or idling, but the draw from it increases. I am not sure what kind of stereo you have, but surely check the grounds. Everywhere, especially in the ignition system, and the radio circuits. If you have a whompa thompa go to an increased amp alt., and maybe a dual battery. Does not need to be the super wango dango's from the car places, just another source for the radio to draw from. If that is where you are with the radio..
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I think everyone here would love to have that Monte..
I am thinking children, and a couple private parts for that one...
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I'm jealous of the info you Canadians can get on your cars.....
Great story guys..
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Found a set of pedals for a stick shift setup out of a 69 Chevelle. Pedals, firewall plate, push rod, and Z-Bar are all included. I know the Z-Bar is different for a FGMC but he wants 200 for the setup. Good deal??
What did you do to your Monte Carlo today?
in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum
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Drove the car for the 1st time in almost 6 months today.. It is sitting in a fellow FGMCC members garage (thanks Jake/shadowgreyss) After sitting for so long, she is upset at me. I need to do some work now:
1. Lube the e-brake cables, and do an inspection on brakes.
2. Replace or adjust the clutch safety switch.. inspection required.
3. pushed the brakes on and the turn signals came on, so looks like a ground issue.. Power probe hut.. :=)