Chris
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Posts posted by Chris
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This is the same stuff used between the hood skin and the hood frame. I use Fusor 121 or Fusor 231 for that. Its a flexible foam sound dampening material that allows the panels to expand and contract without causing panel ripples.
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I run an 87 Corvette serpentine belt system using an R4 compressor with custom lines. Had them made by http://www.rayeveritt.com/ Quick turnaround. Pictures of my install can be found on my page.
https://picasaweb.google.com/109896750363574700634/1971MonteCarloRed#5175410954274146082
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I own the Hobart 140 Gas/Flux Core. I definitely prefer the the Gas mix for welding. I bought mine about 10 years ago from Tractor Supply. I paid around $430.
I also purchased a Hobart 140 from Tractor Supply. Got mine for less than $400 during a store grand opening sale. Worth the money.
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Like I tell my son, patience. No need to rush things to completion in poor conditions. You'll just be back redoing things later if you do.
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Send me a PM with your email and I send you a pdf of the factory dash removal instructions I have. It's a 1970 printing but the instructions are the same regardless of the 3 years.
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Depends on the rear axle ratio and whether overall tire diameter has changed from factory tire height.
Take a look at this chart to give you an idea.
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Stud welder with a slide hammer attachment. No holes to fill after. Similar to this:
http://www.eastwood.com/stud-welder-dent-pulling-system.html
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Carl,
Did you get in touch with them and what is the current rebuild pricing?
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I paid $70 each for the rebuilt since I sent 4 at the same time. Regular price at the time ( a year ago) was $85. The place was recommended by my uncle who has hi-end shop in Florida. Haven't had the opportunity to install them yet.
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Why not just have them rebuilt? I used
South Florida Window Lift
445 NW 1st Avenue
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33301
and had all 4 turned around in a little over a week.
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Phil,
Give me a call after lunch Saturday and we can put the car up on my lift so you can actually look at what's installed without laying on the ground.
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Absolutely nothing. On a business trip in boulder co having a beer right now. Off to san jose ca tomorrow. Maybe I can get some work done on my monte when I get back.
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While not as narrow as you want I believe a 66 - 67 A-body rear axle is at least an inch narrower and since it mounts the same should be a bolt in.
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No, look up hunter road force on google. The are spun on a machine that simulates the actual forces a tire experinces on the road.
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Find a garage with a hunter road force balanced. A typical spin balanced can't detect a tire with an internal defect.
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MonteNH,
Just noticed the thread and see you're also from Londonderry. PM me, I'd like to check out your car sometime.
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My 71 has the original 8.2 installed.
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Pick a product called "Bulldog", available at most auto parts stores that sell automotive paint. It allows paint to stick to virtually anything. I always use it as a base on plastic and have never had the paint lift or peel.
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I'd still opt for the paper manual. Think of it this way. Are you willing to bring your laptop (if you have one) into your shop or print a needed section just so you have the information close by? I have both paper and e-versions (depending on which vehicle I'm working on) and never bring my laptop into the shop. I'm always having to print what I need since greasy fingers on the keyboard are a pain to clean.
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You could also get a later model waterneck with the tap built in.
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I run Vista on my home laptop, XP Pro on my home desktop and XP Pro on my work laptop. The Vista machine does boot slower and has those annoying prompts that come up whenever an application starts but I can say that after using it for almost a year I've gotten use to it. In fact it's actually pretty slick once you figure the stuff out. Like anything else it's different. The things you were able to do intuitively in XP Pro you need to search for. Kind of like the migration to Office 2007. Initially overwhelming but over time you figure it all out. If I had my choice I would have had XP Pro on my home laptop but it wasn't an option.
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Check how your drives are lettered.. A, B, C, etc. You may to have them go in the opposite direction, Z, Y, W, etc. Make the drives that are permanent at the far end of the alphabet. That way way a removal or USB drive is installed the system will automatically start at A. There's are some technical reasons for it I can't remember. Had the same problems with a stick on 2 PC's and doing this corrected all of the issues with it.
If you run XP Pro you can do it this way:
What you want to do is really pretty easy in XP pro.First go to control panel.Click on performance and maintenance and then administrative tools.Next double click on the computer management icon.Double click on the storage icon in the right half of the window.Finally double click on the disk management icon in the right window.All of your drives should be displayed along with their respective drive letters.Hard drives and partitions above,and optical drives below.To change drive letters simply right click on the drive you wish to change and choose change drive letter and path from the dropdown menu.In the new window select change.You will have a drop down menu on the right of the new window that will let you select a new drive letter.Two things to think about.First,you won't be able change a drive to a letter that is already in use.For example:you want to change E to D but D is already assigned.First change D to a letter that is out of the way and not in use like M.Now D will become available for change.Change your E drive to D,and now you can go back and change the M drive to suit your preference.The second thing is that programs installed on a drive or partition with its drive letter changed may have to be reinstalled to function,as the program location will have been changed.You may get around this by clicking on the program icon,and if windows can't find it let it do a search.Hope all of this helps you.
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Mystery SS
in SS 454
Look very closely at the "U", "N", and "L" in the line with M20. The type font is different. They have horizontal lines at the top of each. None of the other codes using those characters have those. Also the * is not centered next to the code as it is on all others.
Where do I get this?
in Auto Body Repair
Posted
I'm in the process of building a true cowl induction hood for my 71 Monte merging a Chevelle SS hood and the framework with a Monte hood and framework. That's how I determined what the material was. I'll post some pics of the process. I wanted what the factory failed to offer.