rtgz71
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Posts posted by rtgz71
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When fitting the floor leave extra material and sneak up on it slowly, easier to cut thin strips than fill in a gap.
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Heard earlier today from a friend that new fenders are “coming soon”. Looked on line today and saw one of the bigger restoration places lists them also...anyone else hear about this?
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Wow, I’d rock that with a procharged BB, try for a flat hood, 4l80, a good 12 bolt, firm suspension and drive it everywhere! Oh, and leave the body as it is..
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On 10/17/2020 at 12:57 AM, CK70MonteCarlo said:
1970 LS6 454 Cleaned it for the first time in years!
Can’t remember ever seeing anyone put a/c on an LS6...good idea though!
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On 11/15/2019 at 3:53 PM, 714024SPEED said:
Very cool ....big block ,big blower =lots of fun !!!! Is the lenco in the back ground going in also?
Yes it is, CS2 5 speed...
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Was bored today so I decided to put the block and heads in to check header fit and decided then it was kinda like a lego set and put on a few more pieces!
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18 hours ago, Rob Peters said:
Larry, Don't even get me started on Property Brothers. For guys that are supposed to be so knowledgeable...... I would never let them touch my property. I could count on one hand the number of times the have not had to come back to the owners and say "that wall we wanted to remove, to open things up, is a load bearing wall so we will have to install a special a special beam to support that weight at an additional cost of $$$$$$$$ (aka big bucks).
Come on guys, isn't that something you would have checked before suggesting removing a wall.
Regarding my wall, that IS NOT a load bearing wall and those 2X4's are solely for hanging wall board. Don't forget, the plaster and wall board also provides support to a certain extent. This house is almost 80 years old so I am not concerned with the wall integrity. More than likely it will be standing long after you and I are gone.
rob
Correct you are Rob, it's just a partition wall, like many interior walls, put 'em where you want to make the rooms the size you want!!
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On 8/6/2018 at 7:48 PM, Hisalone said:
Been a while since I updated so the project moves forward.
My current engine is seeing a little more blow by than I like so that's going to come out in place of a purpose built long block for the setup. When I pull that, I'll probably have to rering it and then sell it. Otherwise, the rotating assembly is fine, just not fully forged like is best for boost.
At any rate, what I have so far is a fully forged 489 short block with flat top pistons so I'm building from that. My plan right now is to add a Straub custom cam, matching valve train components, and AFR oval port heads. It'll be about 9-9.5:1 compression ratio with the heads I'm considering and the vehicle will be running on e85. Should be a very streetable combo before boost comes on.
Induction is where it gets more interesting. I will be retaining the Fitech TB EFI however, on e85 and boost, in its current state, the Fitech 1200PA is severely limited and this setup will blow past it's limit. I could upgrade injectors and retune accordingly, but sometimes I like to do things a bit differently so this is my plan. The Fitech 1200PA is a 2 stage 8 injector batchfire fuel injection. Basically, at low MAP, only 4 injectors are firing and at higher load values, the other 4 kick in. Well, my plan is to rewire it so each injector driver is controlling 2 injectors. This would mean I have the ability the run 16 injectors, providing the fueling capacity needed for this boosted big block. The 8 injectors in the throttle body would all be 1 stage and then I will have fuel rails and 8 more injectors in a multiport intake.
This vehicle use is mainly a street cruiser/bruiser, car show stopper, and occasional track duty planned. I've always liked boosted power via turbos especially because it'll be 1000hp capable with daily driver manners.
Driveline is an already built 12 bolt rear end and plans for a built 4L80e transmission.
So, does this sound rather crazy?Nope, sounds just about right to me!! Although you may want to start saving for a Fab9, that 12 bolt will complain sooner than later..
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19 hours ago, Rob Peters said:
I am not real well versed on this but looking at your pictures it looks to me like the panels you have replaced are just tacked welded in. Is is possible this could be causing your problem. From your pictures it looks like you could run a bead of weld all the way across that may give you more strength. Again, I apologize if I am looking at this wrong.
rob
Those are plug welds done in the same spots as the factory spot welds, the cross rail bracket and the kick up from the trunk floor to the tail light panel came from an Arizona car (had rust issues). I used the drilled out spot weld holes to help with the alignment. Once its up on the rotisserie I would like to put some stitch welds on the seam, but it's strong in that respect. I made some extra supports today that are under the tail light panel, bolted thru the bumper mounts and welded to the rotisserie arms, seems to make a big difference, no flexing. Of course as I went to mount the front I found the passenger's side firewall mount had a good bit of rust on the bottom of the inside mount hole so as it's this far apart I can't see not fixing it properly.… as the saying goes "are we having fun yet??"
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5 hours ago, Monteman1971 said:
The Chevelle infra-structure "tub" is literally the same as the Montes so the mounting points should be the same. You could literally swap the outer sheet metal (including the outer wheel wells) and make whichever car you want.
My 2 cents,
Steve
Yes, this I know for sure since I used a one piece Chevelle trunk floor! What I don't like is when I bolt up the rotisserie arms to that body mount bolt on the cross rail there is only a very short area where the arm rests against the cross rail, and when I lift up on the arm I can feel the cross rail start to flex/give and that nowhere near as much stress it will be under when the weigh of the car is on it. I'm worried about the cross rail collapsing...…
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Got my rear floor and trunk floor in and now going to put it up on the rotisserie. When I bolted up the rear supports to the rear body to frame mount bolt I felt their was not enough support and as I pulled up on the support arm it started to flex the rear brace that runs between the trunk floor extensions and welds to the floor and tail light panel. I see this done all the time on chevelles and their seems to be no problem....what did you guys do?? Bumper mount holes??
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might be too late to help you on the trunk floor, but I'm just finishing up mine. Buying it in pieces cost a lot more in time and money because you also have to buy all the braces, and there are 5 of them, L/R floor braces, L/R tank mounts and the front cross brace that goes between the wheel wells. The complete floor comes with all the braces already installed. They don't make a complete trunk floor for a Monte, you have to use a chevelle piece. What I did was buy the chevelle floor, which goes from the top of the under rear seat floor all the way to the base of the tail light panel. The problem is that where the rear of the floor kicks up tp meet the tail light panel the shape is different....all A body floors are the same until you get to that area, they are all different because of the different shape of the tail light panels. I bought the part that goes from the bottom of the trunk Floor up to the tail light panel from a parts yard out west. they sold me that part and the rear floor brace for $175 shipped. Took the body off the frame, blocked it up, cut out the main sections of the floor and then spent a lot of time drilling out spot welds. I got a GoodMark piece and it fit very well...It's a big job but not complicated, I had never done one before, did it by myself and it came out very good.
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Just a shout out to the guys at Steering Column Pros, had a problem with my column and the guys there were great, were able to diagnose my problem in a minute on the phone, tell me how to fix it and spent the time to make sure I understood the procedure..Excellent !!! of course it did make me feel like an idiot it was so simple and I spent hours trying to figure it out!!
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I am involved with a similar project right now, although a little more ambitious. 540, twin s475 BW turbos, probably a Lenco and a FAB9. What I have learned is the same as you...while the blow thru carbs have come a long way, there is very little room for a tuning mistake, so while EFI is more expensive to start, the first (inevitable) mistake with a carb will make up for it in parts. Also, your goal of 800hp will probably require you to detune it quite a bit. You double your power at app 15psi of boost, so if you make 600hp N/A you can figure 1000-1100 at 15 psi. 600hp these days is easy. Best thing you can do is start with a good aftermarket block and quality forged rotating assembly. The best part of this is it's pretty easy on motor at these lower levels....Good luck !!!
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So the physical dimensions of the door are same then? I thought they were longer!! Door panels interchange then?? Obviously the shape/ contoured are different. What about the door shell minus the skin?? May have opened up some possibilities here...
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Hers guys, quick question... Was talking to a guy today about our cars and I was said I was looking get some better door glass and he said just use one from a chevelle, easier to find. Is this the case??? I thought the doors were longer on a monte...is he correct?? Thx, Ron
wheel housing modification - mini tubing or not
in Modifiers
Posted
If you have rust issues and want to run a bigger tire do what 502 mentioned, frame notch, but go with full tubs instead of splitting the originals and piecing them back together, just easier and looks better.....in my opinion!