o_rod
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Posts posted by o_rod
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Gonna call this week,I looked into his services and you never know, it might make me happy with my camel humps.
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While I would love to use a roller type it just isn't in the budget. I've always used diesel oil and a quart of break in oil during oil changes and never seen any ill effects of using a flat tappet. I totally understand the benefits, but I'd put that cash towards some aluminum heads first.
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Hey guys,
I'd like to toss in a new camshaft/lifters/double roller chain as I feel my exisitng cam isn't taking advantage of my current mods and don't know the history of the timing chain.
Going to stay with a hydraulic flat tappet, engine is a 355, 10:1, 461 heads, 4.11 gears, 3500 stall, th350 and a 28" rear tire.
I'd like to shift the power band up a bit to take advantage of my gear and stall. I was looking at the lunati voodoo 60104 or the comp cams big mutha thumpr. These are big aggressive grinds, would it be too much for my double hump heads? any recommendations?
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So I got the fender back in its proper place, and I definitely need to move the door back about a 1/4 of an inch. Do i have to take off the fender to adjust the door hinges? The bolts seem awfully awkward to get to.
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Looks like money well spent... nice idea on the side markers too!
My monte isn't collectible, original or a high dollar car so I don't mind taking the welder to it. I have more time to throw at it than money. It'll be a learning experience but that's what it's all about for me.
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It all comes down to taste. My overall preference is slightly modified, but only really noticeable to someone who knows the car. I had my lower trim and wheel moldings shaved, left the roof rails. There are a lot of holes to fill if you shave it - about one every foot, plus the marker lights. The stock lights are a goofy shape that got covered by trim to give it a rectangular appearance.
That's beautiful, thanks for sharing.
I broke a few of the clips for the side mouldings when I took them off and seen the replacements were like 100 bucks for a set, so that made my decision easier lol I'll smooth the sides and french in the side markers. I'll start there and see where that goes. My rear window trim is popping off and the window is leaking so that's going to take priority.
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OK that's what I'll do. There's no sag in the hinges they look newer and no rust... I just got in from working on it and the bottom bolt that holds the fender down near the frame isn't even holding the fender. Looks like a passed jobber repair gone bad. I'm going to pull the fender and repair it.
Thanks for the, don't adjust the door till last advice, would of sucked to find this out afterwards.
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Hey, starting my body work project and first up is my passenger fender. When I open the passenger door, it hits the fender and rubs. It already chipped paint on the fender. To fix this would I adjust the doors hinges, if so, how?
Also, anyone have a write up on how to remove the front fenders? Just want to see what has to come off first before the fender. I can see the bumper has to as well as headlight buckets, what about the inner fenders? Any hidden bolts? Thanks
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Yup, the Nascarlo was a bit extreme, definitely not a model of motivation for me lol
You are right, I have never seen a modified Monte that I didn't like, other than the lowrider scene, but that's just not my thing.
If I had more confidence in my bodywork ability I'd shave and smooth it. But I really don't want it to turn out like a Nascarlo hack! I think that is going to be the limiting factor...
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I just noticed all Monte's came with the wheel well trim. Don't have that, but that's a a minor cost. I'm not a big fan of chrome myself but I'll play around with that Idea. I suppose if I go with the side trim it would be fitting to do the wheel well trim as well.
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Hey guys, this winter I'll be moving onto the body of the monte and I'm torn between full modification and a few personal touches...
Idea #1
Re use the stock side trim but paint some color other than chrome. Bumpers will go a non gloss silver/grey, delete lower rocker chrome. This is the easiest option, stays somewhat stockish, less holes to weld. Haven't seen many people do this, can experiment with 2 tone paint below moulding and won't have to repaint car...
Option #2
Remove all the side trim and chrome, fill and smooth it and French in side marker lights. Cut and smooth rain channel around window as well... this is obviously much more involved and far from stock. This is the look I'd love but not all that confident in my body work ability to make it 100% smooth. Seen a few guys do this and it looks phenomenal but if it doesn't go well there's no going back!
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Wow, thanks for all the info fellas!
I'm in the garage right now with the distributor pulled. I'm putting in my Mallory locked unit for the last time. I could not get a proper timing curve with my GM unit.
Anyways, I'll use the paper towel trick to see when exactly #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke and how that relates to the timing mark. I lined up my timing mark on the balancer at 0 and I was at the compression TDC on 6 as per usual.
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No, I understand how timing works. The firing order is correct, cylinder 1 spark plug wire is where it should be. When my timing mark on the balancer is at 0 degrees on the timing mark, #6 cylinder is at TDC not #1.
It runs fine like this, I just rotate the distributor 180 degrees so it fires #6 first. What I'm curious about is why and when I'm using my timing light should I put the pickup on the 6th cylinder spark plug wire instead of 1?
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I was told it was rebuilt. To what degree and what was done is unknown, is it possible the crank balancer is off?
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Well after playing with a few distributors and timing over the summer I've finally found the best one for me.
One thing I noticed though is that my crank timing mark, when set at 0 degrees TDC, is for cylinder 6? It runs great when I set my timing this way, but why isn't my timing mark showing TDC on cylinder 1? This always confused me and I got quite the fire works when I set it at cylinder 1 the first time I switched distros, any insight?
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Just... wow!
Thanks for the info, ended up calling Fitech and looks like the 600hp kit will work for me. Timing control is a major bonus!
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Seems my distributors vac canister was causing a nice vac leak. Removed it, readjusted timing/idle and seems nicer. Hopefully it stops raining soon so I can take it out and see if it fixed it.
It also seems that I removed the high idle cam when I removed the choke so no issues there lol
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Thats a gorgeous engine bay, In for the finale!!
Did you have to modify the Fitech 1200hp kit any to properly work with a blow through set up? I've been looking into the 600 hp kit and would like it to be future proof for the possibility of boosting later down the road.
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Interesting... I no longer have a choke on this carb, I removed it and sealed the shaft holes. It ran fine like this until recently. Still learning carbs, but I'll research the fast idle cam, thanks
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Hey guys,
Experiencing something new lately on my monte. As I'm cruising at light or part throttle and I let off the gas, the car will continue at that cruising rpm or it'll idle higher than normal. The only way to get it back down is by blipping the throttle, sometimes twice... My cable is not binding and works fine and my return springs seem to be doing there job, It's an edelbrock performer 1407 caburator as well. What gives?
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Is there an easier way to mount them do you think? Dont have the tools or space to fab anything myself.
Unfortunately it takes some fabrication in order to fit these in safely. I had to make custom mounts to Weld to the floor since I started with a bench seat car. Not to mention the brackets I had to fab for underneath the car to bolt to. Then the seats themselves need custom mounts made. The previous owner hacked in the factory bucket seats in with bolts through the floor and alot of washers. While it's an easy way of doing it, it's terrifyingly unsafe and a large reason why I redid them.
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I'm going to have to find somewhere else to host my pics. Seems photobucket will no longer allow me to share them without paying 400 a year! I'll post pics as soon as I can find a way to get them off of photobucket and to somewhere else.
Interior is back together except no door panels yet. Having too much fun driving it and time lately has been scarce.
Yup the seats would be practically free if it was in American dollars lol We have places called Kenny U pull here and all parts are flat prices no matter the condition or what vehicle they are from. You can find some real gems but things get picked fast. Not sure if the states have something similar?
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The seats are probably some of the most comfortable stock buckets I've ever sat in. The nice thing is they have height and lumbar adjustments so shorter people will easily get comfy in these. I'm 6'3" so I have them set to the lowest but still have have room to push them back some.
The B&M I ended up fabbing and welding in my own mount to raise it 2" and push it back another 2". The stock shifter was too far out of reach to really slam the gears without reaching. It now sits right in my hand.
I'll take some more pictures for you now that it's more complete and the dash is back in
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I've been having timing issues and I've had to take off the weights way too many times and when I take those little e clips off they go flying, it never fails. I tried home depot and all they have here is 3/16, which are too big and 1/8, which are too small. Maybe the stud is worn if those work for you... I ended up getting another distributor off a buddy and am going to take the parts off it and see how it goes...
I enjoy tuning but this whole ordeal makes me want to lock my timing and forget about it!
At a crossroads, need some opinions!
in Modifiers
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Progress so far... Enjoying it as I wrench it...