MGD72Monte
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Posts posted by MGD72Monte
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Just got the diff installed in the car, weight on the suspension, about to fill the differential after overhaul. Assembly Manual says 4.15 US Pints which is 2.075 US Quarts. Should I try to measure that exactly or fill it to the height of the axle plug hole. Any other tips from those who have done this before.
Thanks
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Finally, great move no matter the colour. I'm sensing it should be black. What year is it?
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Thanks,
Through some research I was able to find two sources which stated 20 - 25.
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I had a similar problem when I replaced rear springs with stock height ones, this lowered the back and caused the problem. Resulted in fish scalling of the front tires. Anytime the springs either front or back are changed, this can happen. Front end alignment took care of it.
From the pic of the car, it looks like it is siting way high.
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Been away for about a month, just catching up on the posts, a lot can happen when you're away! Glad to see things are looking better. Hope it continues that way. All the best Rob!
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Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the diff cover bolts for a standard 10 bolt chrome cover.
Thanks
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Hey Rodney,
I replaced my bushings a few months ago, fairly straight forward if you have a press. I finally bought one on sale for $100, well worth it. Sandblasted and painted the control arms. For the bushings, Autozone has them Linky. Other parts stores will also.
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You might find a small tack weld securing the bushing casing to the lower control arm (mine had that). That can be quickly ground off.
If you're game, go for it, doing it yourself is always satisfying. I recommend getting a small press. There are ways to do it with a vise but with a press, it is a lot easier. Plus a press is worth the investment, you can now get a 12T one for about $100 if you catch a sale.
Press the casing out until the casing end is flush with the arm, then press out the inner sleeve completely, then the rubber portion and then take an air chisel to the empty casing. Split it down the middle then use the air chisel on the ridge to finish pushing it out.
Good luck
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Do you think if I bring the shims to a machine shop they would be able to make a custom sized one of the same design but thicker?
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For the shims, the inner diameter is approx 1.88". Outer diameter is about 2.84" for the left side shim and 2.86" for the right size shim (not sure why there is a difference, maybe just machining tolerances, I assume they should be the same.)
The shims have a beveled edge (which my book says are installed towards the housing).
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You have a couple options, you can find other cast shims that are a different size (.005 thicker), or go with what they usually call a super shim. You used to be able to go to the GM dealer and order what size cast shim you wanted, but they do not have those anymore. A super shim kit is another option, I can take a picture to show what I mean, its hard to explain. It's 2 thicker shims that fit together, with a selection of thin ones in between, that way they dont get destroyed when you put them in. So use whichever thin shims you need in the 'pack' to get it to the thickness you need.
I have a super shim kit I can send you if its what you want, also I may have the cast shims, I'd have to look later. So you would be shooting for .245 and .265, is that right?
As far as whether you need more preload, if you can turn those shims by hand, then you don't have any preload, you can probably lift the carrier right out? (without prying) Sounds like you're on the right track with .005 per side additional shim to give you some preload.
That's right for the shim sizes and yes I can turn the shims by hand when they are in (before I put the caps on) and I can just lift the carrier out by hand (It is a little sticky but definetly no prying). Thanks for the pics of the super shim, I can see the part that holds it together, had never seen that before.
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The shims I have are the big cast ones with bevel edges (0.240" on one side an 0.260" on the other). That's an interesting point, I was wondering how a paper thin shim would fare being squeezed in there. My book mentions nothing about this issue. Because I only changed bearings, you would think that I should not have to add more shims, once again, this is odd, wonder if I could assume that what does not feel like preload actually is? Not, 100% sure where to go from here.
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I haven't been keeping up with your thread, but that looks nice now. I've never had any luck with 'fitment' bearings, except for a pair of Dana 60 carrier bearings I've made like that. They have very thin shims under the carrier bearings so they work well to set it up and then press them on once. For pinion bearings, I've never had any luck though, like you said.
Thanks for your input!
I just got the beam style torque wrench I bought checked for accuraccy and it looks good, so next step will be the final pinion installation with the crush sleeve. After that I'm looking to get some chims to add some preload to the carrier. When I took it appart it seemed to be in snug but have no preload. It has made it easy to remove and replace through my multiple trials but I read you need to preload these bearings as part of the final installation. Right now although there is no side to side movement, I can rotate the existing (thick) shims by hand, so my thought was that this is not good enough. My book says to add 0.010" of total preload which would mean adding a 0.005" shim on each side. The closest I have is 0.009" shims so I called a machining centre and for $20 they can machine them down to 0.005" so I'm looking to do that tomorrow. Any input on that logic would be appreciated as well.
Thanks again for your time
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$70 for a Dyno tuning??? Wish I lived where you do... they charge us $300 out here...
Actually the full story is even more unbelievable. I don't want to hijack this thread so I started a separate one, Link to my Tune up Dyno Experience . If costs are $300 where you are, this might be worth the drive as you are relatively close.
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More info about the engine would help diagnose. I rebuilt mine, changed the heads and cam which changed the fuel requirement. The carb jets were way too big for the new set up so the rings did not wear in properly due to the fuel on the cylinders walls causing oil consumption. Have you had someone follow you to confirm it occurs when you put your foot in it or when you let it off. How much oil are you burning over distance? Have you had the engine tuned after the rebuilt on a tuning dyno? At about $70 it is well worth it. Will confirm your fuel mixture and timing is good at a variety of speeds.
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It seems that the viewer for photos changed recently. Since then, I have been unable to sort photos in my albums. The first problem is that when you go into the sort view for an album you can only get 24 pics per page which makes it tough if you have a lot to re-oder (you have to flip from page to page). The second problem is that I put in a position number and after I click submit all the numbers I just changed go back to 0. What am I doing wrong? The previously established position numbers also don't seem to be working as they are not in order.
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Well after some back and forth, I decided to forget about the fitment bearing using my old pinion bearings so I decided to press on the new bearings with the original 0.029" shim and go from there. The first thing I found was dramatically different was when I applied some preload to the pinion bearings, the chopiness I experienced before with the old bearings was completely gone, rotation is smooth and breakaway torque is virtually the same as the rotational torque. The difference is absolutely amazing. The next thing is when I checked the backlash, it closed up from about 0.010" to 0.007". Measured in 8 different locations within 0.0015" and finally when I ran the pattern it was finally relatively clear as per below.
Coast side
Drive side
It may not be 100% perfect but it's the best I've seen from previous iterations and it is using the original shim. I'm not going to chase 0.001" so I'm calling this good.
Lesson learned: Don't waste your time with a fitment bearing.
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I have a 600 as well, perfect size for a 350.
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Installing new pinion bearings will put you right back to square one. What you are most likely dealing with is just production tolerances.
So basically then using a hollowed out used (but in good condition) pinion head bearing is only to get you within the ballpark for shims, it seems I'll have to take a guess based on that, press on the new bearing and likely still end up having to press it on/off a few times until I get the exact shim combination to work with that specific bearing set. Lot's of opportunities for damage by pressing a bearing on and off but I guess it is what it is.
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Nice, I could spend hours on that site and I've bookmarked it but no 72 Monte brochure?!
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If you have the numbers for the rag joint and flare inserts that would be great. I just found out my dad has a US address to ship parts to as well so that should make getting this done easier.
I thought about using SS G-body boxes but they are not as available as they were a few years ago and the ones you find now are being sold for much higher. Never tried the Trans Am box, didn't know they matched. Anyways I did already buy the box today.
It is actually the steering linkage points I'm trying to describe. Every joint is the same as a balljoint. I think what happened is I tried to tighten them and the ball would spin and not let me tighten enough to get the cotter pin in so I backed it off. I should be able to get in there and try again armed with the correct way of installing them.
I recently purchased a new power steering box as well so while I am in there replacing that I thought why now replace the box as well.
Mike, the joint should not spin because it is being wedged into the taper of the hole. It is more likely that you just backed off to align the cotter pin. There is a range of torque allowed for these castle nuts as well as a third, higher max torque value permissable to align the cotter pin. Once your torque values get into the range, you should be looking for the next (nearest) hole to lign up before you get to the max value and you should never back off the nut for cotter pin insertion.
I'm eager to get your review of the Cherokee box, I've read they are a direct bolt in also. I replaced just about every single component in my front suspension and steering, including overhaul of the steering box and Bruce is right, the OEM steering is not the greatest, in fact my 1984 daily driver's rack and pinon feels much more stable.
I'm thinking eventually of a Delphi 670 which others have described as the most significant improvement to their car, but they are pricy. Your Cherokee option is priced right and if it gives similar results, I might go for one of those myself. Pls keep us posted and let me know if you need any info on the front end. Here is my related album in case you have not already seen link to front end overhaul and for the steering link to steering overhaul.
Good luck
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The only thing that changed is the carrier bearings & races as well as the pinion races at this time.
I will be installing the new pinion bearings once I get this pattern right. I might just give up on it and assume the pattern was like that before because my backlash is within 0.001" of where it was before tear down.
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Well, looking at the shim options I got based on my installation kit, there are limited options. I changed the 0.029" shim with a 0.040" and the pattern now shows the pinion is too close and my backlash closed up to 0.006" (less desirable). I probably would need a 0.032" or 0.035" shim but no such luck in the kit. I wish there was a 0.002" or 0.004" shim that I could simply add. It's odd, the kit has very little selection and I looked at ordering a specific shim kit but the contents are:
(1) 0.020" thick shim
(2) 0.021" thick shims
(1) 0.026" thick shim
(2) 0.027" thick shims
(1) 0.029" thick shim
(2) 0.041" thick shims
(1) 0.042" thick shim
So I would be no better off. How are you expected to make micro adjustments with that!? I called a few local shops and the're useless, you'd think I was working on the space shuttle.
Differential Fill Question
in Drivetrain Tech
Posted
Awesome, thanks Mike