Z06Electron
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Posts posted by Z06Electron
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I would rather dump the car for $1000 than spend $600 replacing a wiring harness that is going to increase the resale value of a car like this by $0.
Worst case scenario I will just wire in a momentary switch to start the car.
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I also found the neutral safety switch which is a completely different set of colored wires.
If I just use a jumper across those two wires and the system works then I know I have a bad switch correct?
The switch looks to have quite a bit of surface rust on it but I'm not sure that means it isn't actually functioning. I plan on purchasing a new one just in case I need it and going from there. One way or another I need this car running today so I can move it.
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Originally Posted By: amsterdam84I had a problem with my challenger where the relay in the ignition relay for the neutral safety was burned out. You would hear it click but the car would not start. You could even feel the relay switching inside but the contactor must have been damaged. Replacing that fixed my problem.
I can relate on Chrysler! Maybe! Though our Delco Remy system, has no starting relay? Well maybe I suppose you could call the solenoid a relay?
Looks like a relay to me. Definitely inline with the starter.
Was this added by someone else or was it factory?
Next question is how I even know this is the correct relay. After all something caused it to overheat and melt everything.
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Nope starter wire is still dead.
I did find this though. The starter wire hooks directly into it. The middle section that looks melted is the one the starter wire hooks to. Two of the wires hooking to it had the shielding melted together. I am wondering if they finally touched and that blew the relay. I am replacing both the relay and the connectors.
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So I decided to trace the linkage back from the tranny figuring eventually I would find the neutral safety switch.
I found a frayed wire coming off a two wire plastic connector right next to the shift linkage. The wire was orange. The other end appeared to be shielded with the same material as the cable that hooks to the starter.
So I pull up the starter wire. It branches off in two cables. One looks like the main power wire and the other is the orange shielded wire which is now not connected to anything (I think this is the neutral safety wire). I can't believe this issue was likely cause by a bad wire. What are the odds it would start and then die 30 feet away from a broken cable?
Anyway I'm going to repair the wire, re-install the starter and I'll report back, but I'm pretty confident this was the issue.
Thank you for all the help.
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Originally Posted By: Z06Electron12 o'clock is hot all the time no surprise there. 3 o'clock has a wire hooked to it that is never hot whether it is in run position or start position. I figured this meant the starter was good but decided to have it tested just to be sure and it tested good. Where do we go from here?
Also nothing hooked up to the 9 o'clock position.
OK now check for power at the nuetral start switch, it should only be hot when key is in crank position and it needs to be hot on both sides while key is in crank. If you take a jumper wire and run battery hot to 3 o'clock the starter should start cranking the engine, you can always jury rig a push button switch as a way of getiing it to crank but it will make the price go down. The ignition switch is located on the top of the steering column about 12 inches up from where it passes through the floor, the key in the column is connected to it by way of a rod about 10 inches long.
Where is the neutral start switch? I found the ignition switch here.
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OK I will check this tomorrow. The previous owner said he was having issues with the ignition switch before and had it replaced, but he had a new key put in the column. My guess is he replaced the wrong part possibly or it went bad again.
Are these readily available at auto parts stores?
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See if your getting voltage to the ignition switch!! If not, check to see if you haven't blown the incoming harness's fuse-able link?
What happens when you turn on the ignition? "ON" mode only?
Definitely getting voltage to the ignition switch, because everything in the whole car works when it is switched to run. The only thing not working is the cranking during "start".
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I have already been trying to start it in neutral and park while moving the entire column around it is completely dead no matter where the shifter is.
Also since I was able to get it started and moved before it finally died, I'm guessing it isn't due to a poor wiring job. I am convinced the wiring is in need of a makeover, but I think it is more likely something failed suddenly that is causing the problem.
Other than the ignition switch, what else is involved in sending electrical signals to the starter? Are there any relays or boxes I could check first?
It is my plan to trace the starter wire back to see where it is coming from.
Anyone know offhand how much a new ignition switch is? How hard is it to install? It looks to me like the steering wheel and column don't really come apart and that the whole column would have to be pulled to get access to anything.
Is that correct?
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12 o'clock is hot all the time no surprise there. 3 o'clock has a wire hooked to it that is never hot whether it is in run position or start position. I figured this meant the starter was good but decided to have it tested just to be sure and it tested good. Where do we go from here?
Also nothing hooked up to the 9 o'clock position.
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Where are both of those? I put a meter on the starter and the only thing with 12 volts is the main power wire.
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I found the ign wire into the fuse block but didn't see an actual fuse. Is it in another location?
I'm not going to replace anything else since I'm selling it, I just need to figure out why it would have started and then just went dead for good.
I have been cleaning stuff and now the brake and temp lights don't go out when the key turns. the temp light now comes on solid when in start position, but still no cranking.
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Been sitting for a while and we were having some front yard work done. Took the battery down to be charged and they said it was bad. Tried my battery out of our suburban and it tried to start. Then wouldnt, then finally tried again and started.
The problem is the starter is not engaging and the previous owner told me occasionally he had issues with the key switch but i'm wondering if that was really the issue. He jimmy rigged the whole electrical and it is a nightmare mess under the dash.
The car wont even turn over but the interior lights will come on. When I go to start it the lights all go out which i'm guessing is normal. I hear a clicking and found a relay under the dash.
I figure there are relays, an ignition switch, the car's park indicator linkage, the battery, and the starter at very minimum that could be wrong with it.
The irony is the damn thing started to move itself out into the street before finally going dead once and for all. I had planned on selling the car, but of course now it won't even start.
Where should I start looking for the problem? At this point all I hear is a click which tells me I think it is at least going to a relay.
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Been sitting for a while and we were having some front yard work done. Took the battery down to be charged and they said it was bad. Tried my battery out of our suburban and it tried to start. Then wouldnt, then finally tried again and started.
The problem is the starter is not engaging and the previous owner told me occasionally he had issues with the key switch but i'm wondering if that was really the issue. He jimmy rigged the whole electrical and it is a nightmare mess under the dash.
The car wont even turn over but the interior lights will come on. When I go to start it the lights all go out which i'm guessing is normal. I hear a clicking and found a relay under the dash.
I figure there are relays, an ignition switch, the car's park indicator linkage, the battery, and the starter at very minimum that could be wrong with it.
The irony is the damn thing started to move itself out into the street before finally going dead once and for all. I had planned on selling the car, but of course now it won't even start.
Where should I start looking for the problem?
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Honestly I've been fortunate especially for a car almost 8 years old with 13k miles on it. I would actually prefer differntial leaks at this point to this tranny leak.
I'm guessing the guy that sold me the car was pretty well aware of the leak as it is dumping at a rate of about a quart a week (pretty serious I guess).
At this point I'm contemplating just draining the pan and letting it leak itself dry. Then just consider it to be in non-operational condition until I can afford to replace the entire driveline. This isn't really the order I wanted to go in, and I'm wondering if maybe reselling the car and buying a more worthwhile project car. The point in getting this car was to have a project that could also function as an emergency backup car, but this isn't something this car is going to be able to do without major labor on my part. Someone looking to part the thing out for one of their projects or who needs donor parts probably wouldn't care about a leaking tranny, and they could probably get close to their money back just from the driveline.
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GOOD CALL!!! Yeah that degreaser spray down at the local wash does pull everything off really nicely. Based on what I'm seeing on the engine it is most certainly the pan. The tranny was the pan, and the coolant lines, and the speedo cable, etc...
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Yeah it was really dumb, I know better, but I was trying to rush it.
Soooooo it is still leaking off the front of the pan, which I'm guessing is the main seal. I guess it makes sense that based on age all the seals went at the same time. I'm looking at pulling the tranny to fix that aren't I?
It really sucks to go through all the work to pull a tranny for a car that is ultimately not going to be run with this tranny anyway. Should I just try to manage the leak? Just really annoying dealing with all the oil.
We'll see if my z06 doesn't leak oil in another 30 years
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Yeah it is a TH400. It sticks straight out. It was the speedo. And finally it is hooked up to a manifold vac. line.
Before the line was disconnected and it shifted very weird. Hoping this will fix the issue. If I got the oil leak to stop, I'm going to have to turn my attention to the whole front suspension and steering. It is FUBAR.
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Yeah, I managed to get the epoxy to hold. It was one hour full set. Seemed pretty strong. sanded it down smooth so it would fit back in. Tranny was way low on oil, 4 qts didn't even get up to the dipstick. Got me up the driveway at least. Hasn't leaked in the last 20 minutes. Fingers crossed the main seal wasn't out. I guess leaking from one spot would still be better than five
I ordered a new gear from GM for when it most certainly breaks. My first goal was to just stop the damn oil leaks. Engine oil leak is bad, but slow, very slow, the tranny leak dumped AT LEAST 2 qts in a month, maybe more. Hopefully now it will stop. New Summit trans pan looks really nice and fit really well. I highly recommend them.
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Hmm too far away, I only have about 4 hours before I'm just gonna have to let the car sit and piss the neighbors off some more. Trying to epoxy it as we speak...
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Trying to use the wrong o ring on the housing resulted in a broken gear. The car is up on jackstands blocking my driveway and I need a gear, GM can't get it until monday. Napa said no go, said a tranny shop might have it, but most are closed today. Any ideas? Could I epoxy the gear back together?
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It was about a six inch section, I'm sure I could have re-bent the line to reduce this but not enough to matter. Not sure how long the old one was on there.
Anyone know if auto parts stores like Autozone will carry replacement o-rings for the speedo cable?
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There was no loop in it, just came straight off the intake and down, however the fitting on the intake had two outputs and one has been capped. Most all non-essential stuff has been taken out of the car by a previous owner, so I'm guessing this was a vacuum line branch off to some other accessory that is now gone. Any thoughts?
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Ok I thought the tube on the top might have been for heat, since there really wasn't anything to hook it to. It's the speedo cable then and it is most certainly leaking. I will check the Chilton's manual tonight, but it has been about as helpful as a one legged man in an [you said a naughty!] kicking contest.
Any idea how to take it apart and replace the O-Ring? Looks like there is a metal retaining clip that bolts in, and the thing spins in and then the clip holds it from backing back out.
FYI I have had an old car for a month and I REALLY, REALLY, hate oil leaks...
71 Monte Won't start
in Electrical Tech
Posted
I replaced that burned out relay and she fired right up. Whew glad I was able to get the car started up. Thank you to all who offered support.