MonteFox89
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Posts posted by MonteFox89
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If the Carb is a Rochester Quadrojet, It could be the choke pull off. make sure the vacum hose is good to the pull off Make sure the choke plate is opening as it warms up. The choke linkage could be binding as well not allowing the choke plate to open.
Yeah. I'll really be checking on that choke when I get some antifreeze. don't wanna try warming up the car without it lol might get toooooo warm tooooooo fast lol
But to be honest it's an electric choke that I've wired to the fuse box to kick in when I turn the key. I don't know a whole lot about chokes but I do know that I have to press my gas pedal to get my choke to set in the beginning and to get it to open the rest of the way once the car is warm enough. kinda works out really considering I pump the gas about 4 times before I can start it in this cold weather lol
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Thanks! That was very useful! Now this new water pump shouldn't leak... if it does I'mma kick it....
As for the "problem" I have been having. I won't really be able to tell wth is going on until I can get some anti-freeze and water in the system...
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Thanks Bruce. It's a dark day outside as is so it shouldn't be so hard to check all that out today.
Well besides that issue I've gotten the water pump halfway replaced... I need a new bolt. One of the longer bolts holding the pump to the block (not the one holding the power steering pump)stripped and bent and all kinds of fun things. I'm realizing I have very bad luck normally... any idea where I can get a new one, or thread size/length so I can hunt one down myself?
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Does it only do this when the engine is relatively cold?.. or it also does it fully warmed up? Can you speed up the engine and keep it going, or does it die anyway?
well if it runs for about 5 minutes then dies I would say it's getting slightly warmed up at minimum. I can speed it up. I can keep it going if fluttering the pedal. but in the end it does die.
Originally Posted By: Mo's70MCsI'm confused. What type of ignition? You keep changing the problem & symptoms.
HEI. I'm trying to keep the symptoms as spot on as I can but it's difficult to explain.
I'm going to check my coil, fuel pump, and I can't think of much else at the moment.
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Hello; Just a thought on your "it will run fine for about 5 minutes. and then it will simmer down to a slow death....". How old is your exhaust system? or condition of exhaust? A plugged (collapsed/rusted/frozen) muffler/piping can cause those types of symptoms.
The exhaust system is fine actually. flowmaster to be exact. I can't name the series but it's about 6-7 years old.
The coil getting hot would cause this strange issue... right?
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yeah, just bought a new Water pump and gaskets today. going to tear into it on Wednesday since I work the next 3 days.
But yeah to answer a few questions, it runs smooth like it always did, and it will start right back up with about 2 pumps of gas into the carb. The Distributor wasn't wet when the primary issue occurred. The wires were equally dry....
Like I said though, I'm going to change my water pump and see about buying some anti-freeze... that brings me to another question... I'll need about 4 gallons or 3?
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I start it normally and it runs fine for about 5-6 seconds and then it dies.
The funny thing is the, first time I start it from letting it sit for about 30 minutes to an hour, it will run fine for about 5 minutes. and then it will simmer down to a slow death....
I was testing it around with the "trying to keep it running factor" and noticed it will stay running if I keep the rpm's up to 2500... any where below that, even if I'm giving it slight gas, it will absolutely die.
Extra Note: When I say it dies, it doesn't just shut off, it simmers to a death. it will drop all rpm's before it dies, not just a flat shut off.
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the driver side seal has busted on the water pump. I plan on changing that in the next few weeks... it's winter there is some leniency on working on cars now is there not? lol
question to go along with this. Would a lack of anti-freeze/liquid, or even a vacuum leak from the water pump, cause the car to only run for about 5 to 6 seconds at idle?
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I got under the hood this morning after pushing the snow off the car. I was looking around and checked the oil and what not. It didn't look like there was anti-freeze in the oil. it was still dark, and slimy (it's 10 degrees this morning). Forgot to mention as well, the oil was at it's normal spot on the dipstick, half a quart below full.
So, what other culprits could there be? What is a Freeze plug (I don't think I have one on my car... at least I'm not sure I should say)? Also, which hoses may have busted?
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Well, if I didn't have to park the car next to the house and in the weather for the night I would have been digging into it without a second thought. So, I'll probably go out and look at it later tonight. I'll repost when I find something out ok.
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Hello everyone! Well, ever hear the theory of, "Fix one thing and another will break"? Well, I've proven it. I fixed the transmission and finally set the car back on 4 tires. Started it up and everything was running fine but it seemed to be missing more than on just 1 cylinder. I shrugged it off and blamed the really cold air (I really didn't wanna think I was missing more than normal!). Well, My Wife and I take the car for a drive and sure enough, it dies while I'm taking a curve. Well, my wife frustrated as can be, walks to the nearest house and catches a ride. I, in the meantime, crawl under the car to find out what's going on because under the hood there is a lot of anti-freeze below. So, I'm under the car and I'm looking and funny that's I've never seen anti-freeze leaking out of my oil pan seal....
I've talked to several people and they've said it's the head gasket blown. Some others mentioned something about a water line had blown somewhere and it was blowback. I haven't the slightest clue. I'm just going to fix the head gaskets and anything I see out of place on my way back to the top.
SO. I need to know. What all things will I need for changing the head gaskets (I'm also thinking about putting headers on whilst I'm doing this.).
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sounds easy enough lol
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kk, Thanks everyone, I think if I'm going to do all this leak fixing... I'm just going to redo all the seals on the lower half of the transmission... Ya know, the stuff I don't have to remove the tranny for!
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haha! I was sitting around thinking and for some reason the *wonderful* idea of melting plastic around it came to mind... I'm really glad I don't normally act on my FIRST ideas
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Well, I finally figured out how to see the leak on my tranny... I lifted the back end on jack stands, put my support rolling jack just under the hog head (incase the worst case scenario), and had my wife sit in the drivers seat and give it gas occasionally.
well, when I climbed under the car I cleaned off the current transmission fluid from the sides of the pan and then told her to give it gas. sure enough some slow moving lucas transmission stuff comes flowing out with the transmission fluid... Over the side of the pan up by the front. I felt around the dipstick tube, dry... so I stuck my hand by the cable and felt it flowing around my fingers.... FOUND MY LEAK!
Now... how do I fix it?
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.... Nooo.... lol but now that you mention it.. I'mma go take pictures of the difficult things in life concerning this lol
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Leak fixed! and if I could maybe post a Topic labeled "How to fix Accumulator Cover Leaks"
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I read somewheres that there is a small hole like ordeal on the side of the housing that actually lets me tap a small item into (very small nail) and it will knock the ring out far enough I can grab it with a screwdriver. I hope it works cause trust me. I got the crud out. getting the snap ring out without it having any spots to pull it is a pain!
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Having an issue with the snap ring... it's just not coming out and I can't find a spot to grab onto it... is there some kinda hole or something I can use to my advantage on this?
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hate to be the dumb one here (hold your jokes)...but what is a accumulator cover???
It's ok Davey, took me 3 hours just to find out what it was... I hate hunting down blown up diagrams that only show driver sides and nothing that even resembles passenger side pieces lol
Thanks Ondy for the tip. I'm going to be taking the cover off here in a bit and replacing the O-ring along with putting some silicone in as well, as you said, "for added insurance."
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what kind of carb? the holley?
you may need to turn the fast idle screw down.
it's on the passenger side, you have to open the thottles all the way by hand to get to it. (do it with the engine off)
Yeah... a lot of fresh carb work needs to be done with the engine off. Almost lost my long hair one day thanks to a backfire lol
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so... a Long screw driver or an extended socket that can reach from the side of the car to the cover. and then have myself or someone else remove the ring out while the other holds the plate down? Simple enough
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either you need to adjust your choke or your timing O.o
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I finally found the culprit to the leaking transmission! Accumulator Cover leak! (took me 3 hours looking up what the round thing was!) now my question is... how do I remove it to replace the O-Ring? or can I just coat it in Silicone and hope for the best?
Shift Indicator Cable
in Drivetrain Tech
Posted
That's a very good question now that you mention it... I accidentally yanked mine out of the dash a long time back hmm... did you replace the cable with the dash still together? if so how did ya get that done? I need to put a new one in eventually and I have no idea where it goes lol
Funny cause the only reason I need one is because my wife has started taking a liking to driving the car but she doesn't know if it's in Drive or L1... I just go by memory and observation. lol