Tom Carter

by the way. I was able to replace the cam without removing the block. I did however forget the timing cover seals to the bottom of the oil pan. The oil pan needs to be slightly dropped to get clearance to get the timing chain cover back on properly. Not that doing that was a big problem however I put the sealer and gasket on the cover and tried putting it on for about two minutes before I realized I had my head up my ... and it will not go on that way. ooops

I needed to gain access to the spinning nuts under the floor boards. The job actually wasn't that bad. I was able to change them all out in a a day. Of course I already had the fenders off and the seats out so there was time spent prior. Steve I can't wait to see your hood. I was afraid I was going to have to steel it for clearance. I am exited to see how different the ride is with the new mounts. The back mounts under the back seat were completely gone as well as the front ones by the fenders. Should eliminate vibration if nothing else.

I feared that to be the case. I haven't seen any access ports on the block itself. To be honest because it was in the cylinder head I just assumed that is where it was supposed to be and that was it. I will most certainly check.

ok. the engine is reassembled however I haven't fired it up as of yet. New cam, new heads, new intake, did pull the trigger on the new gear reduction starter, and everything as worked out so far. Clearance issues were not an issue. The air cleaner has plenty of room. Haven't fired it yet because I took the front clip off to replace the body mounts. The good news is that part of the project went very well. Next Sunday brings me to reassembling the front clip as well as the interior parts I took out to gain access to the bolts for the body mounts. I am just hoping now that the gas prices come back to normal so I put some good miles on without taking out a loan. Again thanks for all the helpful input.

Good morning all. I replaced the cylinder heads and intake manifold last weekend. The temperature sensor that goes into the side of the head can not be reinstalled in the new heads. The port is not there. I want to install it in the intake however the hole is not 3/8. Its 1/4 I believe. I changed my cluster from the dummy lights to the red line gauge conversion. (love that by the way). Does anyone know if there is a smaller sending unit that will work with the red line temperature gauge. I am sorry to say I don't know if they are universal and I don't want to just put anything in. I assume someone has run into this before. As always I appreciate the input.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-829105

So all the worry was for nothing. I was able to remove the old cam and install the new with absolutely no issues. Next is to replace the oem heads with the new aluminum set that came with the top engine kit. Check the pushrod length and start the reassembly. I was seriously considering replacing my starter while its easy to do. I keep looking at the gear reduction starters on Summit Racing. I like the thought of the clearance between the headers and the starter assembly. Plus the crank power is much more. Any thoughts before I pull the trigger?

I did just buy a new set of Mickey Tompson valve covers. They are Holley. Does that count?

I'm using the updated Edelbrock carb. I put it on my car and I noticed an instant pedal response difference. Its the AVS series. It feels like a old style fuel injector throttle body set up. I know there are a lot of people loyal to Holley and I not going to challenge that. However, I really like the way the AVS works.

I will send pics and updates as they come.

I was looking at the specs for the height of the two intakes. The old one and the new air gap looks to be about an inch difference. I don't have any clearance concerns now. I do have a inch spacer between the carb on the intake. I will imagine I won't need that anymore anyhow. I appreciate all the feed back. I am always impressed by the information that is out there. I would rather hear from someone that has been there, done that.

That works. I don't have a really high air cleaner at the moment but if I need to change it to cure the problem I'm fine with that

I did not go with the roller lifters. I purchased the top engine kit. It came with the cam, timing chains and gears, cylinder heads complete, air gap intake manifold and gaskets. I went with that just because everything is matched so there is no guess work. The only variable I am slightly concerned with is the height of the air cleaner after installation. That air gap is higher than I thought it would be. I still don't think its going to be an issue but I haven't made any rear measurements yet. Of course nothing is torn down yet either. I appreciate the input. I am trying to have the car ready for a show in June and I overbooked my time like a dummy.

I am changing the cam in the 350 engine. I have not started as of yet but I was trying to put a plan together. I was originally going to remove the block and do the change over on an engine stand. Removing the radiator is problem but I have working a/c and was not going to remove the condenser. Now I'm wondering of there is enough room to change the cam if I leave the block in. Trying to save a little time. Of course when trying to save time it always seems to cost more time. Does anyone know if I would have enough room with the radiator removed and the condenser still in place if I can remove and replace the cam with ease. Appreciate any feed back.

Well that sounds good. I have a turbo 400 now. What kind of modifications are made to put the 700r4 in?

I started looking at stage 3 posi carriers. My brain is starting to leak I think. I have never opened the rear differential on my car. I don't know if its a 8.2 or 8.5. I know its a 10 bolt. Assuming its the 8.2 the posi carriers doesn't seem outrageous. changing to a stage 3 and not going posi doesn't seem right. I just cant make up my mind on which gears to go with. I do drive highway a lot so I don't want the engine screaming at 70mph. I was thinking 3:08 or something like that. Maybe even 3:55 but I am worried going that high. It maybe a few years before going with the overdrive tranny. after the rear end and the engine upgrades I am going to need to recoup a little. What is everyone's thoughts?

The performer kit is about 325. The rpm kit is above 400

I have been looking at the Edelbrock rpm cylinder heads too. They aren't that expensive and I really like the idea that they have been matched with the cam and intake. I haven't started the rear end research yet but it's itching at my brain when closing my eyes. I think I need to start playing the lottery...

I do drive my on the highway a lot. I was doing some research while at work and I believe I may go with the Edelbrock rpm cam and intake. I like the 1906 carb currently so I want to try and stay with that. Perhaps spring will show me some rear end gears. Any one know if I change to 3:08 or so without changing the carrier in the rear differential. I haven't done much with the rear end so changing the bearings and seals is probably a good idea anyway.

I did pull the engine and did do a complete overhaul about five or six years ago. I wanted to change the cam then. I told myself that if I found anything that looked even remotely out of the ordinary I was going to go to the performer rpm series. Of course the cam looked good. I have a hard time spending money to replace good parts. Of course I'm kicking my self now...most likely I'll keep it somewhere just in case. Had my heads sent out and freshen then too.

the rear end is a 2.73 10 bolt. the tranny is a turbo 400. I have been kicking around putting in a 700r4 and 3:55 gears. I just don't want to make the vehicle a gas hog on longer trips. I am not looking to build a track car, just improve my situation. I was looking at the edelbrock rpm series. rpm cam and intake, maybe the heads. just don't know if that will be ok on my stock lower block.

So I am sure everyone asks this question at one time or another. I am running a stock lower 350 block. I currently have the edelbrock performer intake as well as the performer cam. The engine runs well and I have no complaints. The problem is I am wanting more power. I drive the vehicle when I can and to be honest I feel like the Silverado has more acceleration than the Monte Carlo. I don't want to go crazy to the point of a crazy idle or vacuum concerns. Just want more than what is there now. I don't want to do anything to the lower parts of the block. Change to the cam to something more aggressive and maybe the intake if necessary. I like the Edelbrock carb that I currently using which is the 1906 650. I have been looking at the top engine kits online from Jegs and Summit racing. My head is starting to swim with the numbers and specs at this point. The problem is I don't know what I want. Is a mid range cam better for street driving? It looks like the low end cams aren't going to change what I have to much so I don't want to waste me time and money. I realize what I am saying is very indecisive. Of course any advise is appreciated.

No pockets. If you are creative you can probably use the original pocket. I don't have the equipment

The dash and kick panels are hopefully next weekend

So changing the door panel carpets where actually easier then i thought it would be. Time consuming and it makes a mess but it was worth it. I think the blue and the sandelwood are a great combination. I would recommend replacement to anyone that is thinking about it