James G.
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Posts posted by James G.
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Thank you for the link Bill, I actually got busy at work and didn't get a chance to order the part yet, but I will look more into the one you suggested instead of the one I was going to order. I assume you can run the heater and blower motor ok with that setup? Thanks again guys and great picture link of the firewall setup on each type of setup Bruce, that is very helpful!
-James
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Thanks for the advice Rod, I will keep everything for sure. I found the A/C delete plate for $119.00 from thepartsplaceinc and am going to order it now, that seems to be the best price from what I have seen. Can't wait to put it in and free up that engine bay!
-James
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Sweet, I found a great site with instructions on how to do it correctly. As always, I can count on you guys for fantastic advice, thanks a bunch!
-James
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Hello guys, I have a few questions regarding removing the factory A/C unit from my 1972 Monte Carlo. I really have no use for what's left of the A/C unit on my 72, as it is currently not working and I would really like to have that extra space on the passenger's side of the engine bay to get around the headers and such.
It appears that there is a plate that the A/C piece is mounted to the firewall, so I was wondering if I could remove those parts and bolt on a cover of sorts right to the firewall and free up all that room. Am I way off base with this thinking, or going down the right track? I was hoping some of you have undertaken a project like this in the past and have some advice for me, and possibly some pics of the work and how the final product looks on your Monte now. I don't want to start tearing the A/C pieces out only to find out the car doesn't run correctly afterwards, and have to backtrack to put something back together, so any help would be greatly appreciated thank you!
-James
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I have a Borg-Warner Super T-10 4-speed in my 1972 Monte Carlo with the original 454 in it. I am running Hooker Ceramic Coated Competition Headers in my car, 2" primary tube and 3.5" collector diameter. I am also running 3.5" exhaust all the way back, with the H pipe for tuning. It's a tight squeeze on the driver's side by the clutch linkage, but it does fit. The part number is 2455-1HKR and orderable right through Summit. Here is a link for you:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2455-1HKR/
I hope this helps!
-James
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Steve, I am still "mulling it over", lol.
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Alright, so check this out guys, here is an update and resolution on this issue of the car bucking and jerking on me when I slow down. I picked up my 72 Monte in the fall of last year, and didn't have too much time to mess with it before storage season up here, but I did put in new plugs and a bunch of new high end electrical upgrades to the ignition system. So, I had not gotten to re-checking the timing until this past weekend (due to some crappy weather up here for the past few weeks), and that brings me to what I thought was a clutch issue with the car from my previous posts. It turns out it was actually a timing issue. When I checked the timing it was way off from factory spec's, and nowhere near where I wanted to run the car at, so after re-doing the timing I took it for a ride and presto, when I slow down with the car no more jerking or bucking or anything, it's very smooth.
Also, who ever installed the bracket that holds down on the distributor got the wrong part, as this one barely contacted it, and I could actually turn the distributor without ever loosening the bolt up! Yikes! So, I got the new bracket and buttoned up the car and she is running like a champ, so this is just an FYI for anyone else having a similar problem to the one I had, don't just assume as to what you think the problem is, because cars love to throw you curveballs from time to time. Thanks guys for the help, and if my story with this issue helps someone else out, then I will be thrilled.
At least I have a new clutch assembly if and when mine does decide to die!
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If the 396 hasn't been built up much from stock, I would say you should be o.k., providing the TH350 is in good running order to begin with. I personally like the TH400 a little better, they seem to be able to take more abuse, but a built TH350 can take quite a pounding itself, have fun with your Monte!
-James
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Yes, it is a TH350.
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Here are the numbers from the rear end in my 72 Monte:
L K B 1 5 2 2
From what I have, I believe my 10 bolt rear end has 2.56 gears (ugh), made in the Buick plant, on 2nd shift, and is an open rear end. Does this sound about right to you guys? Thanks.
Also, I did not find the "LKB" code listed for 71-72 Monte's, but did find it on a Buick website listing other A-frame cars and their rear end codes (including Monte's), so maybe we could add this one to the Tech Info section?
-James
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Thanks Mike!
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Quick question guys, does anyone know the location of the gear oil fill hole on a Borg Warner Super T10 manual transmission? I think it is on the passenger side, about midway of the case. I see a square looking nut right there, so if that's it do I just take that nut off and fill to the bottom of the hole? Or, am I way off and the hole actually somewhere else. I want to get the right spot to check the fluid and fill the gear oil, so any help would appreciated. If you have pics to show the correct location, I would take that too, thanks so much guys, you're the best!
-James
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Alright, I found more numbers on the transmission that is getting me closer to ID'ing it correctly. here is what I have:
4.17.79-1 (this is the production date I assume)
MLT 7802 (no clue what this means)
1304065903 (the 903 means aluminum case)
W.G. DIV (means it is a Borg Wagner tranny)
So far I know this is a Super T-10 Borg Wagner produced on April 17, 1979 with an aluminum case. I am still looking for the VIN I guess, as I would like to know what vehicle application this came out of and the gear ratios. I have no clue as to the meaning of the "MLT 7802" under the date code, but if anyone does, please let me know, thanks!
-James
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If you go with the 700-R4, I would make sure you find one with the police car tail shaft, and not the corvette shaft (you can also swap in a TH350 shaft onto the 700-R4, which would shorten the overall length about 1 1/4"). Also, go with the stronger 28 element sprag version (which is featured in all 700-R4's from 1988 on), and not the earlier 1982 - 1987 26 element sprag 700-R4's which were much weaker and had a higher failure rate. Lastly, think about upgrading the clutch pack, as the 700-R4's are known for their 3-4 clutch pack failure (even on the later models). I hope this helps.
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Thanks for the info and links Rodney. I am going to get the car up on a lift this weekend and really look around the whole tranny for any more ID tags or stamps in it. As soon as I find them, I will post them up for you guys to see. I will also try and get the digital camera out and get some pics of the numbers, too. But, in the meantime, I do have a few more questions:
Do I still use regular gear oil to fill the tranny case, and where would I fill it from and how much to put in? Is it like the M20's where there is a fill hole on the side and you just fill it up to the bottom of the hole? Anyone with a Borg Wagner, your help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!
-James
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Hello guys, I have a 4-speed manual transmission in my 72 Monte and am in the process of trying to ID it correctly. I bought the car last year, and am in the process of restoring and identifying what the car has in it, and I want to do it correctly. I thought it was a Muncie, but for some reason I am now leaning toward a Borg Wagner (possibly T-10). Here are the numbers I have found on the passenger side of the Transmission case stamped right into it:
1304065906
W.G. DIV
F p C 4
Any help would be greatly appreicated. Thank you!
-James
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I have a Hurst with my 4-speed and I love it.
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Sorry Dan, it's been crazy around here lately. I actually got a good deal on a new clutch assembly (just in case I need it), now I just have to finish shoveling out a path to the barn where I store the Monte in the winter so I can work on it. You guys are the best, thank you so much for the advice. Hopefully I don't have to replace the clutch, but if I do, at least I have a spare one on hand ready to go. I will re-post when I get under the 'ole girl and see what's going on.
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Sam, it is really more noticeable at lower speeds slowing down, I would say mostly in 1st and 2nd gears since those are the main ones used at lower speeds. I would really like to get rid of that feeling like the car is "bucking" at the same time I hear the noise, too. Like I said before, shifting up through (and running in) the gears seems to be fine, but when the car slows down when I am getting ready to stop you hear the noise and the car bucks back and forth a bit unless you keep your foot in on the lcuth or pop it into neutral. I guess that is the best way I can describe what is going on. Thanks!
- James
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With the clutch pedal up Dan. When I depress the clutch it goes away, which is why I was thinking some kind of clutch issue rather than something else. Basically, if I want the noise to stop, I can just pop the car in neutral when I get to a lower speed and let it coast to a stop and the noise is gone as soon as I take it out of gear. That is the best way to describe what is going on.
I really appreciate the feedback, and I will investigate further ASAP. Dan, thank you for the link, it will be very helpful, and as soon as I crawl under the car to ID, I will post up which type of tranny it is. Thanks, you guys are the best.
- James
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Yeah, it has a big cam in it, and it pushes 425hp, so maybe that has something to do with it also. I assume there is a a more heavy duty flywheel that could help?
I was thinking about the lean issue that you mentioned also, as I have had to try and do some fine tuning on the Edelbrock carb to get it somewhat right already, and am still not convinced that I am running rich enough. What is the easiest way to find out if it is either an M20, M21, or M22? Thanks for the info, I appreciate it!
- James
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Hey guys. I have a '72 Monte that I believe was originally an automatic (TH400) but now is a 4-speed manual. It is an original 454 car, and I just picked it up at the end of the summer. Well, it's winter here now, so it is safely tucked away in storage, but, I want to get going on the one big issue with the car which seems to be a clutch problem.
When you are on the gas hammering through the gears it seems to run fine, but when you are off the gas and coasting down in speed, the car seems to "buck" back and make kind of a growling noise from under the front end. It seems to be some sort of clutch issue, but it does seem to shift into gear fine when I do clutch it to shift, so I am confused.
It is worse at lower speeds in 2nd gear, or even 1st gear when you are coming down toward a stop. It is not a hydraulic clutch, it is a manual one, and I believe it is an M20 4-speed tranny in the car. I was hoping maybe somebody else had this problem and it is possibly a simple linkage adjustment, or if it something worse like a flywheel or pressure plate, please let me know if you have had the same problem in the past, and what you did to fix it. I am not used to working on manual trannies, but am willing to tear into it to get it running smooth. I love the car, and this is really the only issue I have with it. Thanks guys, any help would be greatly appreciated.
- James
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Thanks Mike, I thought it was gear oil but wanted to make sure. You guys always have the answers, thanks again!
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Just out of curiousity, where did you end up finding that build sheet? I am starting the process of looking for the one in my '72 Monte and was looking for good places to start. Thanks!
Let's Talk Radiators...
in Engine Tech
Posted
Well, it appears that my radiator is on it's last legs. I was wondering why my coolant level went down about 5-6" the other day, when I was pretty sure the car wasn't using up antifreeze, so I topped the tank off and took a look after running it for a short distance. It appears about 6" down on the radiator there is a crack below the fill hole and the fluid drains down until it gets past the cracked part of the radiator and then stops using antifreeze. So, should I take it to the local radiator shop and see if they can fix it, or should I just got for broke and buy a new radiator?
I run about 200 temp. once the car's warmed up, and was wondering if going with a high performance radiator would help make the car run a little cooler, or maybe fix this one for now and go with a lower temp. thermostat, like maybe a 180 or 165 unit and see how that works? Let me know what you guys think, and what you have done in the past to your radiator set up. Thanks a bunch!
-James