Stick
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Posts posted by Stick
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I vote for the Cherry’s jubilee show. Looks like a lot of fun.
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" I know it's cheap insurance, "
I have one. I run low 13’s on Drag Radials. Like you said its cheep insurance.
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Routing of the upper radiator hose may need to be address.
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Here are mine.
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I remember....
"We Miss You George"
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Looks great!!! Nice Job. What are the details on the tach source?
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As it turns out the pump barely fits with a little elbow grease. I ended up using a Die grinder on the crossmember and making the clearance comfortable.
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Has anyone else had any success with the Holley pump Clock recommends? I‘ve tried to install this model but it hits the frame.
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Possibly the gear selector is not all the way in the park position. Check for binding in the shift linkage.
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The numbers you are looking for are on the passengers’ side of the differential, on the forward facing surface. Use a scrubbing pad and some simple green to uncover the numbers.Now I'm really confused. Looked on the axle tube (driver's side - near the differential). Swear the numbers read 67890. No letters that I can see unless the "6" is a "G" but I don't think so.
Any insights?
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..Too Funny!
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Quote:<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by George Lines:
There is a very small seal inside that part that the cable screws onto. You can remove that part to get to it. Have catch can under it because you will lose some fluid. That pastic vent is pressed in probably by hand. You may be able to make a hook to reach in and pull it out even if it comes out in pieces.</font>
George, You hit the nail on the head on both accounts. A $1.54 and 5 minutes later and both are fixed. Thanks a bunch! -
While pulling my motor and trans I broke the plastic vent on the top of the transmission. It’s broken off flush with casting. My question is how is this installed in the casting? Pressed, screwed etc...? Also, the speedometer cable housing has a small leak where the collar screws onto the trans. I can’t seem to get it tight enough. Is there a fix for this or do I need to replace the cable housing?
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1972 Custom
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I’m confused now. The nut I’m talking about is the one that holds the yoke on the end of the pinion gear for the drive shaft u-joint. I did change the pinion seal and I had to use an impact wrench to take the nut off. Using the info above, I’m assuming I use the impact wrench to tighten the nut?
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What is the spec. for the pinion nut on a 12 bolt rear end. Anyone?…Anyone?
Thanks in advance
Mike
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Got it! Thanks guys.
Mike
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Thanks George and Mike. This helps a lot. I know what I need to do now. I had a feeling it would be something along those lines, but wasn’t sure what type of tools to use.
The part in question is the wide piece below the trunklid.
I didn’t think about finishing. What type of compound should be used when buffing? Should it be something like jewelers rouge? And after buffing should there be something put on the finish to protect it? Like wax or a clear coat?
Mike
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Does anyone know if it is possible or how to remove dimples or dents from trim pieces? I have a 72 and the rear chrome piece has a few minor dimples and dents. Before I spend a bunch of $$$ on a new one I would like to try and repair the one I have. Any info would be appreciated.
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Recently one of the rear windows stopped working and now the driver window is slowing down. It’s half the speed of the passenger window. Any ideas to what may be going on. I’m thinking the switches are going bad. What should I check first? Thanks for any input.
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one of our own! Robyn Lance
in In Memoriam
Posted
Wow, I'm sorry to hear you are down Robyn. I'm wishing you a speedy recovery and good thoughts to you and yours. Hang in there & get well soon.