keith72monte

Hey if anyone wants to put 1998 and up s10 brakes on your monte, Rock auto has the axle plates new for 150 pr, A-1 cardone remand calipers with brackets and hardware for 80 bucks.I couldn't find axle plates or caliper brackets on ebay. wish i found out rock auto had them before i bought ones from a junkyard that need hot tanking and bead blasting before i can paint and install them. I think right stuff is chinese parts and want gm parts on my car, but then again gm parts might be made in china too. i know ac delco has parts made in china , like wiper motors and ac parts.Save your money and buy willwood or bear brakes for 600.Atleast you know your getting quality and not some junk.

bob how does the e-brake hook up on the s-10 setup? does the caliper sit towrds the front or back or rotor? any know if there is a advantage if the caliper is forward or towards rear? i,m thinking that would make a deffernce on the e-brake hooking up better or worse. i,ll send you a pm bob on your parts once i understand what is best and needs to be done. thanks for the feedback guys, feels good when i know i can rely on people who have been through this already. i just want improved brakes.not racing on a track, but nice to have better brakes when your going fast lol

Hey fellow members. I am interested in putting rear disk brakes .i see where right stuff setup moves the wheel out 1/8 th inch.Does anyone have a differnt setup and does all rear disk aftermarket setup move the wheel outward.I am leaning toward the oem brakes off a 88 trans am or s-10. It would be easier to buy a kit,but if i can avoid the outward movement to make sure i have tire clearance. I don't want rubbing issues either.I have 275/60-15 tires and 15x8 rallys with 5 inch backspace.My rear is out of car now, so i wanna do something before i put fluid in rear and install.Help a confused member out lol. i have heard of issues with ccp and right stuff as far as the axle plates moving around when adjusting e brakes.willwood brakes are alittle too much money for me, my car is just a crusier show car, but i want better brakes.

Hey rich, thanks for the info.Now i can focus on getting one out of a monte. Are all three year monte carlos use the same core support? or do i have to use 72 only. Thanks for any info again

I emailed ausleys chevelle, i,ll see what they say and let everyone know. Thanks for your input

Hey does anyone know if the core support is interchangeable between chevelle and montecarlo 1972, just curious cause ausley chevelle has core supports for 135 bucks. I figured i should ask the experts lol

I went with the metal ones, after hearing people saying they got plastic ones and they cracked within a few years. i got mine through ausley chevelle for 180, plus like 30 for shipping.They didn't wrap the inner wells too well and i guess it,s primer thats on them,but there are some long scratches in the finish haven't installed them to see if scratches show, probably just paint them with the masterseries paint i have left over from when i did my frame.Probably will undercoat the inside of them,so it keeps the noise down when rocks hit inside the well. I think that is why montes came with plastic, for the quietness, since it was a luxury car being sold then.Or a way for gm to save money.But to spend 250 or whatever for plastic and have cracks soon after would make me mad.I,m deff not going for the oem correct restore, and i seen alot of people happy with metal ones from this website. Made me make my mind up after reading up on here

I used master series paint and primer, it's like por-15, but it seems to be more friendly to work with. i used the gloss black, its alittle shinny, but no one looks under neath unless they are buying the car lol. www.masterseriescoatings.com , half the price of por-15 and very durable , beat on it with a hammer and it,s not flaking or chipping off on you. If you want the oem gm look, then use whatever primer and paint is used for correct oem restore. Under my car was very surfaced rusted and good amount of pitting, so i wanted something more, click on my homepage ad you can see pictures of primer and paint

yeah i have had acouple of montes, but can't remember if any had painted front cores. The two cars i own now both have black painted core,both car have had repaints once or twice and three times lol. I,m looking at replacing the core and buying one from koniks klassics, He sells them reconditioned with ppg dp90 primer and can paint it for another 100 bucks, i think i,ll leave it in primer since the top piece that goes ontop of core is in primer, so the top piece blends with main core support, plus i,m sure it's more durable to leave it in primer , less chance of paint peeling or scratches that cause paint peeling.anyone know ofhand what ppg dp90 primer would be considered, matt black or a semi gloss black primer

goodmark industries has master fastner kits, parts place has several differnt fastner kits, big kit is like 189, smaller kits can be bought for 50 dollars. i would go with parts place

Hey does anyone know if gm painted the front core support the same color as the car? or did they just leave it in black primer? I,m replacing mine, so i figured i would check if gm painted them the same as the color of the car.i,m going to check out pictures of peoples cars on here and see what they did and how it looks, going to order a replacement core support soon, figured i,d see how it came from factory

ok theres some pictures of the blast project,on photobucket by viewing my home page, now how do you guy put a picture inside of your post reply? is that called your signature? and the picture on the left top of the reply post where your name shows up,how do you load a pic for that.and links in the middle of your post.

Thanks to all the welcomes, I have had (6) 72 monte carlos, been a fan forever. I have been reading the tech forums for a year from here to rebuild my 10 year old project haha, so i felt i had to give back to the website the way it has given me all the info i need to get my car done.I,ll figure these picture thing out soon. I do have two monte carlos now,both small block cars, dreaming of a big block oem car one day, One car i have is green needs restoring.Now i know what is involved doing real resto work, I might just sell that car off, save my money for a frame off restored big block car. Or i,ll ship it off to mike with the money green car to make mine look that good lol. My mostly restored car is black, pictures to get on here soon

hey i don't see a way to posts pics on the post, help a newbie out lol

car frame -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hey everyone, I just got done sandblasting underneath my car. I bought a 1972 monte carlo as a low budget build up car. I did the body work myself learning the hard way. I had the car painted real nice for 3k. I decided i wanted to replace the fuel tank and rebuild the rear end. I decided the underneath didn't look good enough to put new parts on. This is where the low budget turns into the show car. I looked online to figure out if i could use rust remover in a liquid or gel. I decided not to deal with chemical smells. I bought a electric angle grinder and a 60 gritt sander wheel attachment and knock off the surface rust and realized the frame had a good amout of pitts in it. Then i decided to get a small 30 gallon compressor and got a small portable handy blaster i borrowed from a freind. I bought some play sand from home depot.I used a mask and blasted the rearend outside in the driveway with the wind behind my back. It did a ok job for the very light surface rust on the housing,but then i read where play sand is dangerous. I always wanted a 60 gallon compressor and i figured this would push me to get one. I researched online about compressors and hookup plumbing.I started from scratch and struggled to figure alot out. I write to this forum for the next guy who types in google search, removing rust from a car frame. So here it what i did and what i bought to do the job right.It is a one time deal for me, so i tried to save alittle money going with a entry level husky 3.2 60 gallon compressor. I am done with the miserable task now. I will post some pics once i get the media blast out of my garage,eyes, ears,nose,everywhere.Here is the basic procedure i took to do this project. I will break it done to what i bought to do this,First of all take care of the underneath before you paint the top.Secound, if you plan to really restore a car and have the money and space, then take the body off and send the frame out to be blasted and primed and painted. 1) 3.2 husky 60 gallon compressor (439.00), buy bigger if money isnt a problem.Atleast step up to the $799 model if you plan on doing more then one project like this. 10 cfm is the mininum i've seen you need. Mine did the job perfectly.Under a car your only going to want too spend 15 minutes at a time under there anyways. 2)plumbing: you will need to reduce the hole out the compressor from 3/4 to 1/2 or down to 3/8th if that what you want to do. Then you run a 1/2 in dia. piece of black pipe about 2 to 3 inches, from reducer to a 1/2 inch shut off valve. From the shut off valve you run a 1/2 inch dia lead out hose thats 2 foot long or longer. Then you connect that lead out hose to a 1/2 inch air regulator/water fiter. From the air regulator/ water filter exit out, you run 1/2 diameter air house. i used a 50 foot long one.At the end of the 1/2 air hose i used a reducer to 3/8 th size,Then i connected a 3/8th shut off valve for easy on and off at the blaster, after the shut off valve i ran a 2 foot long 3/8 leader hose, sometimes called a whip hose, which allows for more flexablity. i ran a coupler at the end of leader hose and connected to the media blaster. 3) 100 lbs media blaster, i bought a 90 lbs blaster for 89 bucks at habor freight, It was being clearenced and ii had a coupon to get 20 percent off. you can buy online most everything you need.Buy the media locally at a tractor supply company or something like that(save on shipping becuase of weight). Great tip: if no media is coming out of handle, shut off the air supply going from the water filter on the media blaster to the tank, pull deadman handle and directing media into the blast area until a flow of media pours out , then turn the air back on that goes to the blaster tank.Also,If your sound turns from loud to alot louder like a air line breaks on you, then you are out of media in the tank.Also sometimes it will start out as a big flow of media with no pressure at very first, then the pressure kicks in and give you good blasting. I used a small trash can next to me to blast into , when the media was just pouring out with no air behind it.helps with the mess and recovering media. 4) Media, Dont use playsand , it is dangerous. I used 70 gritt aluminum oxcide for 40 bucks for 45 pounds. It more exspensive then what i,ve seen people say they buy coal slag or black diamond for, it was just easy to buy at Habor freight since i was there and got a killer deal on blaster anyways. I bought four containers of it.I went back and got four more containers once i wore out my first deadmans valve handle tip. I bought 3 extra packs of ceramic nozzles too, i used the next to smallest size after i got a hang of it. I ran my compressor alittle more ,but i got alot more done in a shorter time. the smallest nozzle won't run the compressor as much, but it will take longer with a smaller blasting pattern.I paid 30 bucks for 80 pounds of coal slag, but it was course gritt and was clogging up the nozzles, Iwould have had to use big nozzles and a much bigger compressor cfm level. I recycled the first 4 bouckets of media 3 or 4 times, and recovered most all of it. 5) blasting hood, A white hood came with the kit for the media blaster.It works ok if you are doing some outside standing up work. Buy the red one from Northern tool or Eastwood. I got two hoods and 6 extra lenses to make the job easier. Great tip: wrap sarahn wrap on the outside of the lens that get the media on it, slide it into the hood. On the outside only, place duck tape on the edge of the lens where media can get inside of hood also. Don't put masking tape on inside of lens, The masking tape glue destroys the lens.Shake the hood real good after blasting to get media and dust off it. Helps with keeping media getting into eyes when putting hood on.I rinsed my eyes out with contact lens solution. Get the media out of your eyes asap. 6) Gloves and painters suit: I bought some nice ones that fit my slightly larger hand through Northern tool, they were 11 inch long, I also got a 18 inch pair, which worked great for pulling up tarps for media recovery. The blue painters suit at home depot is 9 bucks, I am 6ft1 tall is fitted ok, But if i tried to put the blue suit hood on and get under the car it made the suit too tight. I tucked the blue suit hood inside the suit.After i would blast i would take suit off and shake alot to get media dust off. i went through 4 or more suits. 7) List of parts prices so you know what your getting into. 1) air compressor, entry level 60 gallon 439.00 2) plumbing , reducer for exit hole in compressor 3/4 to 1/2 inch 5.00 2a)1/2 inch dia. black pipe either 2 or 3 inches long 1.00 2b) 1/2 inch shut off valve from depot or habor freight 5.00 2c) 1/2 lead out house around 2 feet long at habor freight 5.00 2d) 1/2 inch air regulator/ water filter combination 29.00 2e) 1/2 inch dia. air hose 50 foot long or whatever u want to do 35.00 2f) 1/2 inch reducer to 3/8 for however you want to hook up 5.00 2g) 3/8th whip hose for flexabilty 29.00 3) 90 lbs media blaster or 110 blaster kit 89.00-129.00 4) extra deadman valve and ceramic nozzles 3 packs 42.00 5) Media( 70 gritt) 45 lbs each times 4 @ 40 each 160.00 6) Northern tool red blasting hood with 4 extra lenses 52.00 7) respirator mask pn 100 filtering 38.00 8) rubber gloves and blue painter suits 4 suits @9 each 50.00 9) tarps and painters drop plastic 3 tarps 9x11 @ 7 each 30.00 8) chemicals for prepping , priming, painting: I bought everything from master series paint products. They seem to be easier to work with then por-15 and half the price. I did my rear end and it turn out super nice.The metal prep solution for use before priming etches the metal and conditions the metal has very toxic fumes, wear a mask. Primer is ok , no mask needed, paint was toxic so wear mask. www.masterseriescoatings.com .Dont bother with anyother stuff really, i have read up on all of them and this is the best price and easy to apply and work with. 9) Paint brushes , rollers ,foam brushes blue rubber gloves ,blue tape, duck tape.thread tape. 10) patience , dont rush, take a break if you sweat alot or get mad. be creative building a plastic coccoon around the car. One side of the car was parked two feet from the garage wall, I put picture hanger hooks into dry wall and hung the plastic 6 feet tall and drapped it to the roof of car and ducked taped. Drivers side i parked my other 1972 monte carlo two feet away and taped plastic from roof to roof and created a tunnel.A wood frame stucture can be build to get a coccoon built. 11) i do this to save the next guy weeks of reseach and having headaces trying to figure this out from not knowing anything about compressors and media blasting.This is the only website i learned enough to get started. Still there was the basic info that was missing and i feel really relieved i never have to do this again. Everyone else can fill in anything i left out or tips that would help. i covered the basics and spent a hour writing this, Take care all