72MC

If they are TALL valve covers, you will probably have an issue with your a/c bracket. I know I did. It would go together but I had no room for movement to tighten and loosen the belts. Soooo, out came everything related to the heater and a/c, inside the cabin and engine compartment. Clean up alot of un-needed items. - Dave

Yes, you will need his FLYWHEEL or one similar. An auto tranny like a TH350 does not use a flywheel, but a FLEXPLATE. A manual tranny uses a FLYWHEEL. - Dave

x 2 A full roller assembly. Now that is the life. - Dave

I have Wilwood's MC p/n 260-8556, which is a satin version of the one you are ordering and it's cheaper. The prop valve is a breeze to set up. I moved the prop valve up under the MC on both my Monte and Elkie using bracket p/n RSD-PVB71S. If you are going mechanical, you should still be able to use that bracket. Also, there is no "button" on the adjustable prop valve like there is on the brass oem versions. The electrical connection may or may not be used. This depends on your setup. Your brake light will still be operational but only to show if the emergency brake is on or off. I connected the factory fit style stainless lines with the new lines to the prop valve using brass compression fittings. For those lines which are different sizes, the brass compression fittings were used as well. Fittings can be purchased that reduce from 1/4 to 5/16 and 1/4 to 1/8, depending on your needs. I forget who I purchased the fittings from but it was someplace like these, http://fittingsandnipples.com/Parts3.php?pn=Compression%20Fittings&ci=Compression or http://www.plumbingstore.com/compression_fittings.html Hope that helps. - Dave

I used my slide hammer and an add-on tool specifically for those bearings. As mentioned, the big chain auto parts places will loan out those tools for a deposit which equals the price of the tool. Basically equals free rental unless you decide to keep it. The slide hammer setup you discbribed works like a charm. - Dave

Here ya go Mike. Adj prop valve WIL-260-11179. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/ - Dave

I have the satin Wilwood MC and love it. It is so lightweight compared to the OEM style. I was also able to use the pushrod that came with the power booster that I purchased. Next time I need brakes I will probably go with the Wilwood calipers as well. Just couldn't pull the trigger on those when I did the brakes a couple years ago. I would also recommend Wilwoods adjustable prop valves. Very nice piece. - Dave

, and they're stainless to boot. - Dave

Yes, you have 3.42's. 41 divided by 12 is 3.42. That 12A41 GM SS should be on the ring gear outer edge. Too bad you don't live closer, I still have a stock BOP (Pontiac) 10 bolt outfitted with posi 4.33 gears, drum backer plates and axles included that I would let go for fairly cheap. Probably would need an overdrive tranny though. - Dave

No metal fabrication needed with the B&M Hammershifter. I can revert back to the stock setup at anytime. Below are some pics. I did make a boot out of deerskin for the shifter. I went with brown so it somewhat flows into the burlwood. - Dave

Just finished purchasing parts to install this winter into spring. I bought Dan's solid billet trailer arms and then purchased the double adjustable QA1 shocks for the rear. Now I have QA1 double adjustables on all four corners. Boy I hope these things last a good long time. - Dave

WooHoo Mike , very nice times. Sounds like you know what to get the girl for christmas . - Dave

Awesome vids Davey. Keep em coming. Can't get to the track myself and haven't been in such a long time so I'll just live vicariously through your racing. Keep smoken em. - Dave

Sorry to hear about the passing of your father-in-law Paul. My condolences to you and your family. Congrats on the racing. Car is looking as awesome as ever in the pic. Wish I could open those vids but for some reason I can't view them. As stated before, your car has an excellent look about it as well as being fast. Looks like we could get some good heads up racing between some members if we could get get them in the same location. Maybe some day. - Dave

Got a new battery for my girl. My Optima yellow top finally quit taking a charge. Had to get a jump start after getting gas last weekend after running the snot out of her. Didn't get another Optima though this time. Price is way to high relative to the use she gets. When I first bought my Optima, it was $150.00. Now they want $230.00-$245.00. Decided to go with an AC Delco 78DT6YR. Price was $140.00 and is rated at 1000 CA / 800 CCA and 115 minutes reserve. For anyone interested, it's a perfect fit. - Dave

If Canfield was still in business I would highly suggest them but, since their not,.....I have to agree with Justin, AFR is tough to beat. If and when I buy new heads for anything, it will be AFR. - Dave

Hey Mike, I think some of the reasons for my fitment issues got overlooked in the write-up. My oil pan caused most of the issues I had. It's a 7 quart kick out style pan. Thus the problems with the starter and the oil filter. Otherwise, the steering shaft and control arm perches were minor issues. Just wanted to clarify. - Dave

Murray, I have heavy rectangular ones on my Elkie but I have round ones(like are shown on the jegs link) on my Monte. I purchased mine from BMR back in 2003. I spoke to BMR about this because they now make the rect ones, and they stated that they are just as good as what they are making now. And to think, they could have made a sale so I think they were honest with me. I would not have a problem getting tubular arms from someone like BMR but it would depend on where those Jeggy ones were made before I made a recommendation. Check UMI, BMR, Edelbrock, etc. - Dave

I agree with Davey on this point. I purchased 2" primaries because I know me , this engine may transform into something bigger one day. - Dave

Mike, I can't speak for our Montes but I can relate my experience with 2" primary tube headers on my El Camino. They are 16 gauge and made by Patriot(Also owns Doug's). They are beyond tight. I had to shave the lower control arm perch on both sides. I had to remove and then reinstall the steering shaft. I also had to bring them up from underneath the car. They would not go down into place from the topside of the engine. The driver side was still a PITA and I did scratch them just a little. The starter needed to be installed first. Since I had an oversized oil pan, I needed to go with a smaller oil filter. All that being said, I really like them now that they are in place. One recommendation I will give. I tried Pypes "butt" clamps and they are a peach. They are 3" inches wide and will connect exhaust pipes butt to butt. A little expensive at 23 bucks each, but well worth it. - Dave

Sweet. Glad I keep all instructions for everything. Davey, you DID do good with back to back .005. I find I like striving to beat the guys ahead of me rather than holding off the guys who want to knock me off. Keep pushing, you're doing great. - Dave