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72MC

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Everything posted by 72MC

  1. Dave, your launches are Baaaaaadd. And when I say bad, I mean AWEEEESOOOME. I must have played the launch 15 times. You actually looked to get just a touch squirelly in the rear during the wheels up. Did it or are my eyes playing tricks on me? - Dave
  2. Keep on gitt'n better Rob. - Dave
  3. David, your fact finding expedition resulted in some correct info. I always used .475 and never had an issue with pressing them in. Friendly advice,.. DO NOT hammer them into place. The proper way is to press them in. It is also NOT a good idea to get the stud started by tapping them partially in and then useing the old "couple washers and a nut" to draw it in the rest of the way or to seat them. I know some do it that way but that doesn't make it the correct way to perform the task. You will be asking for trouble. Also, keep in mind, if you ever go the "performance rotor" route, most likely the hole diameter for the stud will be larger in order to accept a 1/2" stud (ie. the knurl will be something like a .560). This is what happened to me. My "drilled and slotted" rotors had larger knurled 7/16" stud. When I changed my rims, I needed a longer stud. So I pressed out the original stud, measured the diameter of the knurl and ordered from there. With the larger knurl, you can decide if you want the 7/16" or 1/2" threaded stud. Good luck with the install. - Dave
  4. Hope Mrs Peters doesn't mind but I will give a short update. Life is not a picnic for Rob. Rob is still in ICU, has pneumonia, and still has complications with the stone(s). If Dan sees this, hope I got the story right. Just trying to keep the FGMCC family abreast of the situation. - Dave
  5. Very good. Hope it worked. Get well soon Rob. - Dave
  6. The first one is the one I perfer. I did slightly round the corners on the square block and had zero problems getting it and out of the lower arm. On my old lower arms, I believe I even took a square file and grooved the entry hole slightly on two corners. If my memory serves me correctly, both procedures involved very little material removal from the metal surfaces. I have the second one as well but don't really like it compared to the first. I guess which ever works. - Dave
  7. That's the way I understood it as well. I was always able to hook the compressor down 2 or three coils and still get the spring in with little problems. Also, which spring compressor are you using? The correct compressor is the unit with 2 hooks at the top and a "spoon like" insert at the bottom. The "spoon like" insert slides into the bottom coils about 2 coils up and stradles the long threaded shaft. I have found this unit to be easier to use than the unit with 2 hooks on one end and 2 hooks on the opposite end. - Dave
  8. The BOP 10's with the scalloped "C"'s on the cover were considered Pontiac 10 bolts and were also considered to be the strongest of the BOP lineup. I saved one years ago and it came with a posi carrier and 4.33 gears. - Dave
  9. Sounds good. I know I am a little late to the post but thought I would throw it out there. Good look with the new unit. I'm sure you will like it. - Dave
  10. Josh, I have a GM 2 series posi carrier with all new internals(side gears, spider gears, old style 18 piece steel clutch kit). Internals purchased from Randy's Ring and Pinion. I do not have the install kit with bearings, seals, etc. I'd let it go for $350.00 plus shipping. - Dave
  11. Well, I took the new AC Delco battery out of the Monte and put it in the Impala. Then I took the Delco Energizer that I was saving for the El Camino and decided it was time to use it or risk losing it from being stored for so long. It's dry but didn't want to risk it any longer. Charged it up with almost a whole box of electrolyte, 6 amp charged it overnight, and dropped her in today. And then finally,... took here out for and extended spin. She was wanting to run so I pushed her hard in this beatiful 70 degree and dry weather. Below is a pic of the setup. - Dave
  12. Looks like you've been real busy Nick. Looks very nice. Would love to see it someday live and in action. Enjoy. - Dave
  13. I like it. Nice job. Did you use flat black, semi-gloss black, etc? - Dave
  14. 72MC

    IMG_05851

    Really diggin that color. - Dave
  15. 72MC

    IMG_0587

    That's pretty sharpe looking. Enjoy. - Dave
  16. 72MC

    new cam

    Rob, the new gauges look real nice. Can't help ya with the popping. However, I will say, when I first starting hearing it in your video, it sounded a little like someone was getting slapped . Thought maybe your dad was tired of your antics or something . - Dave
  17. Another vote for the "electric" Auto Meter series. So many styles to choose from as well. - Dave
  18. Yes I have used them. I also use the ur5 version. I believe the ur4 is their hottest. ur5 is slightly cooler. I believe the V Power plug would be the one for you. NGK-2771 equates to the ur5. NGK-6630 equates to the ur4. Summit has both these plugs under those part numbers for $2.69 each. - Dave
  19. I don't think you have a problem. My fairly new rebuild is like Mikes. On start up, I get 75-77 psi. After running for a while, at idle, I show 27-30 psi. Upon accelation, the psi climbs to 65-70 psi. Highway cruising, I show about 65 psi. I run a high volume pump, not a high pressure pump. My stock to mild 350 with a stock pump prior to the 383 ran in the ranges you have and I had no oiling issues. - Dave
  20. I use NGK on both the SBC in the Monte and the BBC in the El Camino. They are shorter than a AC Delco but not as short as an Accel plug. That being said, I have no clearance issues. I have a couple that are close but the MSD boots show no signs of burn. I also have room for Taylor plug heat shields to fit and not touch the headers. Bottom line, I recommend the NGKs. Good plug and they clear the headers. - Dave
  21. Hey Brian, glad my advice worked out great for ya. I forgot about the adjustable vacuum can. That is a nice option, IMHO. It's dead on accurate the way the instructions show you how to dial it in. - Dave
  22. Brian, unless that 10 year old cam is a billet unit or some other "exotic" metal, you'll be fine with the iron dist gear that will come with the HEI unit. Or, Look at the old HEI gear when you pull it and if it looks good swap it out with the new gear and save the new gear. Or, If you still have the cam card, call Comp and see what gear material they would recommend. I doubt they will recommend brass, carbon fiber, or carbon poly. Steel or iron are most likely what they will recommend. - Dave
  23. Congrats Davey on some new bests. You are En Fuego. Alright, so how soon before we see 8's? - Dave
  24. Great choice. I have always liked those rims. Liked them so much I have them on my El Camino. Again, Great choice. - Dave
  25. Those are good units for your application. I would also recommend a Pertronix Flame Thrower HEI unit. I have one on my El Camino, seems to be a reliable "better than stock" unit. One part number is PNX-D1050. They are about 100 bucks more but there reputation is good. - Dave
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