John S

I have used Fel-Pro, part number VS 12869 R with good results. I have LT-1 aluminum valve covers. John S

I’ve done it the same way Larry has done it. Then rotate the crankshaft so that the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is facing down or in the 6 o’clock position that will reposition the crankshaft counterweights so you will be able to get the oil pan out easily. I recently removed the oil pan on my car. You should have no problem. John S

I don’t know. Looks like feeding oats to a dead horse.

I upgraded my radiator to a three row radiator. Now, I have the small radiator with the three bolt top cover and a 180° thermostat. I also put a seven blade GM fan with a centrifugal clutch fan on. I have no problems and it does get hot down here in Georgia south of Atlanta. Temperature will run around 200° if I am in heavy traffic for an extended period of time otherwise between 180° and 190°. John S

Also watch what type of seal you buy. Original equipment type seals do not get driven all the way in and do not bottom out on the housing. GM has a tool so when installed there is an approximately a 1/16 of an inch gap between the seal flange and the rear end housing. Check the 1970 service manual. If you are creative, you can make something similar to one of them tools. I believe a company called Ratech P/N RAT-6109 makes a seal, for a 12 bolt, that is designed to be driven all the way in and bottomed out against the housing. You can get the seal at Summit. Not that difficult of a job just looks intimidating. John S

When I paint the intake manifold is it necessary to prime it first or paint right over the cast? John S

All right, thank you. Good to know I got that right. One last thing is it necessary to put some thread sealant on the four Center bolts of the intake on each side to prevent oil coming up through the threads and getting on the intake?

Need to change intake gasket. The way I was going to do it is to not use any spray adhesive such as copper coat or high tack on the gaskets. I was going to put a thin coat of RTV around the coolant ports and I was going to use a 1/4” bead of RTV along the front and rear walls of the intake instead of the rubber seals that are provided. Tell me if that’s correct or what way would you suggest. John S

You’re about one month late. There was one for sale on eBay 1970 350 4 speed, bench seat ended up selling for $20,000 and I’m sure that’s not gonna make you feel very good.

McMaster Carr has some 4 to 1 shrink tubing that I used on my emergency brake cables by the floor pans.

Tightening the pinion nut to crush the sleeve for preload and getting the pinion depth, correct is a little tricky. Years ago back in the early 80s myself and some friends would take another set of pinion bearings and hone them out, yes it took a while. Pinion bearings are pressed on. We would hone them out so they would slide on the pinion so we could easily disassemble to get the pinion depth correct. I had Atlanta driveline set up my rear end when the Posi unit was replaced. I wasn’t gonna mess with that anymore. John S

It’s the five and five warranty. 5 feet or five seconds whichever comes first.

I don’t know what to tell you from my experience I have found they are cheaply made and inaccurate. A number of years ago I took my tank down four times trying different units. I even got an AC Delco sending unit and after using a borescope in the gas tank, saw that the float was resting on the bottom of the tank with a half full tank. I won’t go into detail, but I got very lucky. I called the Parts Place a number of years ago. At that time they had listed an original GM sending unit. I called them. They said they didn’t have one, 20 minutes later they called me back and found one at the back of the shelf. At the time I believe I paid $229 for it but it works great, no adjustment, plug and play, and that was it. So getting back to the original question Don’t know what to tell you. Good luck, and hope you get lucky, because with the sending units that are out there today you’re better to be lucky than good. John S

I meant 10k Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor.

I put in a 10 ohm 1/2 W resistor didn’t make a noticeable difference, maybe 100 RPM at over 2500 RPM. I could try a higher resistance resistor and I may try that.

I don’t know what the other numbers are. Usually there are two letters also on the carb which from what I understand are simply a customer code.

Some codes on Rochester are different. They follow the Julian calendar with the first three numbers being the day 1-365 of the year example 0309 would be the 30th day of the year of 1969 January 30, 1969. I believe your numbers being 0029 comes back to January 2, 1969.

Even a broken clock is right twice a day.

Does anyone know the Ohm rating on the resistor wire to the ignition coil? Is it 1.35, 1.5, 1.6, or 1.8 ohms.? Also, can you use a ballast resistor to replace the resistor wire? I believe you can you just have to get the right Ohm rating. Let me know if anybody knows. I believe the voltage to the coil through the resistor wire should be 7.7 to 8 V correct me if I’m wrong. John S

The man’s nuts.

Volo cars is always extremely pricey. Not just Monte Carlos, look at their two page ads in Hemmings motor news and marketplace. I’m surprised they sell any of them.

I don’t know those resistors are very inexpensive. I’m going to connect one to the end of the tachometer wire and put the other end on the coil and see if it makes a difference. Simple to try. It doesn’t work. It doesn’t work.

Called Pertronix they told me that could be a problem with the tachometer off. They suggested buying a 10K ohm 1/2 watt resistor and putting it in the tachometer line.

I’ve used them and I’ve had good luck with them. Now on my 2006 Monte Carlo with a 3.9 L V6 I can’t stop the leak. I found the problem. It would take a long explanation for me to go into it and I’m sure I would have some doubters after I explained it. But I’d be willing to bet there would be a number of you never heard of that issue before. John S

If I can let me get your opinion on this. I read on the parts place site. They sell that tachometer. But they also state that standard points ignition and an HEI ignition put 11 to 14 V to the tach wire. I have the Pertronix ignition, the parts place states the pertronix ignition puts up to 18 V to the tach wire, don’t know how the voltage gets that high but that’s what they state. If that’s the case, the tachometer will read higher according to them.