John S

My Z-bar also has an offset twist, but I have seen them on both sides of the Z-bar probably just as many on one side as the other but the straighter the travel is always better. I have room to put it on the other side. I always thought that angle Looked to be a little bit too much.

To double check with you the way my clutch fork rod is installed is that the correct way? The assembly manual shows it mounted that way. I have seen some pictures of Chevelle‘s and Monte Carlo’s with it mounted on the other side of the Z-bar. John S

Thanks again

Hey Thomas, I don’t want to change the topic on a thread but I was wondering the power wire coming from your positive cable to the radiator support is that a fusible link or a standard 10 AWG wire?

72445341664__FBBFBDE7-5C7B-49F6-B23E-8DFFF2695D97.MOV Got it together. Took it out for a test ride today. See how everything was going to work. Clutch works and grabs fine. No issues with that. My clattering noise in first gear is now gone. I will attribute that to the new pilot bushing. After hearing a noise for a long time, you can get used to it and dismiss it as normal. Transmission overall seems quieter. One thing I should have done that I did not do is replace the input bearing. Don’t remember being noisy, but I can hear it now idling in neutral little bit of a noise put the clutch in all quiet I have a video here might be hard to hear but see what you think.

I have to do that also at my age. If I don’t label something a year down the road I’m scratching my head wondering what it’s used for. Plus it doesn’t matter what it looks like as long as it works.

I felt ambitious, so I decided to make my own Muncie front bearing retainer nut wrench. Good thing for McMaster Carr.

The only one I know of is from cupholders.com. It’s called a plug n chug. Fits in the ashtray it will work straight out of the box for an automatic but if you have a four speed, you will have to do what I did remove the cupholder inserts and remove the extension which is held on by quarter inch nuts and studs Drill two more holes on the left side of the cupholder then the shifter won’t hit it. I haven’t installed and tried mine yet, but by my measurements it should work.

That’s one to keep in the memory bank. I saw that method used about a year ago on a rerun of the show Garage squad, worked exactly the way you described it. I wish I could’ve remembered that a month ago. I could’ve saved myself a lot of time. Great tip though. Thanks for the reminder. John S

OK mine is the same length and the measurements match up other than my snap rings are on the inside, and the diameter of my ujoint caps are 1 1/8 in. The exception is the caps that go into the rear end yoke are 1 1/16in. I am starting to believe that the driveshaft is not for a 1970 I think it’s 1971 to 72. Thanks for taking the time to do this I appreciate it. John S

Got it. Thanks a number of years ago when the exhaust was installed it was bent and installed by a company called rainbow muffler. They did a good job except the pipes ride a bit high very little clearance between the pipe and the crossmember and the bend was a little bit off where they go under the crossmember. The cable and where it adjusts comes very close to the driveshaft it hasn’t hit in 10 years. I don’t expect it to hit now, but I just wanted to have your input again thanks. Also, after I posted I got on eBay motors and saw a Monte Carlo that had pictures of the undercarriage.

Two questions does the parking break cable coming from the firewall go above or below the transmission crossmember? Number two does the parking brake cables to the rear wheels go above or below the exhaust pipes? John S

It is a 12 bolt posi-traction 3.31 gears. CCF code. Outside diameter of yoke 1.5 inches size of transmission output, shaft, 1.175, I may be off by a couple thousandths. The best I can determine is that everything I have is from a 71-72 Monte Carlo, Chevelle. The rear u joint in the car is a combination u joint.

OK, thanks Thomas much appreciated. If it means anything, I don’t even know if the correct driveshaft is in there but the joints that are in the car now are both Moog ujoints, 534G in the front and 449 in the rear. John S

No M20 4 speed transmission. My ujoints have the inside, snap ring that snaps on the u joint cap itself. I have an extra yoke in that style with the outside ring but I don’t think I can use a joint that uses inside style snap rings on a yoke made for outside style snap rings. Unless someone thinks I can.

Does the 27 spline transmission slip yoke for 1970 have internal or external clips for the ujoint? Also, if you could let me know what the length of the yoke is from the joint centerline to the end. I’m not sure what I have in the car or better yet with somebody else put in there, but mine has internal clips and my slip yoke length is 5 inches John S

I got bored on Saturday.

Also, picked up a new throwout bearing today a SKF bearing from Summit racing. Never seen this before when I got home, I opened it up and the bearing would not spin. You could not turn the bearing like it was locked up never seen that before. Took it back. The returns guy at Summit thought I lost my marbles until he tried to spin it. Got another one this one spun easily. And when you spun it, it sounded like a dry bearing with a fair amount of lateral movement in it. Some of this overseas production stuff is not good. The throwout bearing I pulled out of the car with 12,000 miles on it feels better than the new ones.

The pilot bushing is new. The one that was in there was trashed the best measurement I could get out of the old one while it was still in the crankshaft was roughly .725 I know things are more critical with a tremec regarding alignment. On the bushing versus the roller bearing. I guess that’s a personal choice I have read in some forums from people who prefer the bronze to the roller bearing since bronze is soft and if you tear up a roller bearing, you could damage your input shaft. Again, it sounds like a chicken or the egg argument. Chevrolet has used bronze bushings for a long time. I think it will continue to work.

Bronze bushing already installed inside diameter of the bronze bushing .593 diameter of the input shaft .590. I used to dial indicator pushed shaft to one side, then back to the other .059 I’m gonna go with it.

I have .30 on each side. Here is a picture of the parts Muncie.

I may be splitting hairs on this sometimes I get to be too much for perfectionist, but I’d like to know what some of you people thought is on this. The bearing retainer sleeve with the throwout bearing rests was worn badly. I recently picked up another M20 Muncie transmission for parts, so I switched out the bearing retainers. Same part number, but look at the pictures and see how there is considerably less clearance around the input shaft with the second bearing retainer compared to the original bearing retainer. Let me know what you think. The first photo is the original bearing retainer the second two is the replacement one. John S

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274913644530?hash=item4002214ff2:g:dtcAAOSwUIxhH80G&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0J5ShvKquNnzZUJDnXTmE5YafMAPUcJ%2FdZorOGaJnADZ2xRlTM8JDDoStbn%2FhZuG5iMUzv7mpfM7YzZYBqBya3DpOhRhyKVgEUOwxPDUZ1Jtu0Ow1GtdC7xCGe05AdoNkvEjMpi3TXgjRz4910RMSNE%2BUnlkbxMjNjrUUN1lKf6NK%2BwfUWTavbdzOp817Ye4kQcAgxIKovmOR4e8Lr3Y3OkpMa%2F3p6g60ErB%2FNDjnzyVO7H%2FgRHHhtKY%2BV4m4Rr1gWS24YmMMRF%2Ff9HB7W4zQX4%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6regMuDYw not gonna like the price, but I saw a couple of them.

Now it’s done. Heli coil in, torqued the retainer bolts to 20 foot pounds the Muncie guy said 25 foot pounds but I didn’t want to risk it. Got most of my information from the Muncie tapes. There were four parts to disassemble and rebuild a Muncie 4speed. Putting the retainer nut on he does not recommend staking the nut he recommends red. Loctite tighten it down a couple hits with the hammer and good to go. I guess that retainer nut works as an oil seal don’t want to risk damaging it. One last thing to possibly do I’m debating whether I should drill and tap a 1/2” NPT drain hole in the case like M22 has. John S

No, it is not a crack just some oil tracking when I sprayed brake clean on it. When I saw the picture, I figured somebody would pick up on that.