John S

That may be the way I’m going to have to go. I will connect another good name brand tachometer to verify readings and I’m quite sure that’s the way I’m going to have to go. Then maybe buy another tachometer. Don’t want to pull the dash forward to do all that work but I am retired with nowhere to go and all day to get there. A while back I had a conversation with someone at a Summit car show. He told me some tachometers on older Chevrolets You could change out the resistor. I don’t know if that’s true or not, but that’s why they sell new tachometers.

My tachometer must be way off. I have a Muncie four-speed, 3.31 gears but still the final drive ratio is 1:1. At 70 mph I’m 3300-3400 RPM. I’m going to have to get another tachometer, temporarily hook it up and see what the difference is. Thanks for posting that.

Sold for 20,000.

20 years old December 23, 1979 paid $1100. Bought it from my neighbor had my eye on that car for a few years.

I retired at age 60. Took Social Security the minute I turned 62. If I had known it was gonna be this good I would have done it it years ago. You have to do the math to find out what your break even point is in regards to Social Security. You always get nervous about the unknown you’re starting a new phase in your life. You will adjust and you will probably feel the same way I do. Health insurance is always the elephant in the room. If you go on the exchanges, you have to be careful to watch your income as it is income adjusted.

I’ll put on the old arthritic ugly old man act.

Checking salvage yard sounds like a good idea. I don’t think it’s unconventional. I think it makes common sense to be able to sit in a seat before you buy it to see what it feels like. Buying seats simply by looking at a picture or off the Internet is a gamble. I’m sure with some modification I can make them fit.

I have original bucket seats in my 1970 Monte. I need to replace them with something newer. I have neck issues. I cannot drive the car for any period of time without pain. I Need to find something more comfortable. I need a newer style seat with a tall back. I have a 2006 Monte Carlo those seats are very comfortable, but if anybody’s got some ideas on where to pick some up please let me know. John S

If you’re going to go the welding route, I would definitely grind a V, but I would go at least half if not a little more than half the thickness with the V so you get penetration and build up the weld instead of just laying on top. 29 years in the pipeline business, been on many construction jobs. That’s the way they weld them. As far as butt the pieces together, we would weld pipeline together with what was called a nickel gap. The thickness of a nickel between the two pipes. But I see no reason why they cannot be touching as long as the weld is hot enough to penetrate. Watch for distortion. John S

You’re right I’m doing that right now about not doing it years ago.

Thanks for the input. If I go that way, it sounds like the nylon or black braided hose would be the way to go.

You’re right about lifting the body. I wish I would’ve done it when I put body mounts in years ago. I don’t know if I wanna go through all that again, once was enough. Although I do get a little anal about stuff like that so I may just bite the bullet and do it.

Thanks that was my original plan. Just like pulling wire through conduit.

Thanks JOE. I’ll do some searching and see what I come up with.

I need your opinions on my plan to replace the fuel and return line due to corrosion. I should’ve done it six years ago when I replaced the body mounts and had the right side of the car jacked up to replace the mounts. I should have replaced the fuel line then don’t wanna go through that again. I believe the body needs to be lifted 3 to 4 inches on the right side to be able to get the pre bent fuel line between the body and the frame. I was thinking braided fuel line feed it over the frame in the rear connect to the gas tank, secure with clamps along the way and connect to fuel line along the frame rail where it’s accessible. Replacing the front portion is another story. I’m sure that’s no bargain snaking that up through the frame around the coil spring and then out to the fuel pump I’ll deal with that somehow. But I was wondering what your thoughts are on the braided line. John S

Proto 6524 3/8 Drive socket

Small block.

I got the very same booster that you have and it works great. John S

The parts place has them part number EL1651M. $29.99

Or it could be the back drive rod needs adjustment.

They live amongst us and they are multiplying.

Already checked that out it’s OK but yes that can cause problems.

Well, it will work.

No, it doesn’t have a trailer harness. Sometimes I try to apply More’s law too many times if enough is good, more is better and too much is just about right. My 2006 Monte has larger gauge wires coming off the alternator and for power feeds. Of course there’s more draw on a newer car, higher amperage and other things. The wiring harness is original on my 1970 was just thinking about upgrading a couple of the power wires and if I did, I thought I would go up one gauge wire size. I didn’t know if it would be worthwhile to do it or not.