cbolt

So you are having some rare burgers?

Those are nice and way better than anything available a few years ago. If you want a cleaner look you can always use shrink wrap which comes in various sizes.

Oh but you are just getting warmed up......

I mounted my coolant tank under my show panel attached to the hood latch brace. No pics available and I installed a black one so you really cannot see it at all. That was the point, to make it functional yet invisible.

Stop watching '70s porn already! 4k and HD at least. Sheesh

Nothing says "desperate" more than a sign to identify a waterbed in the back of your truck. Dude must be fugly

Get yourself a label maker and label the shelves. I had to do that because I would buy tools that I already had and couldn't find them when I needed them.

Glad you did. I was perplexed as to why Jared was getting a "Best Wheels" award. NS

Great job Aaron and Jared for all the pics. Makes a compelling argument for attending the western meets. Very picturesque location for sure.

The heli coil is always the way to go in my opinion.

I did some reading on the subject. It seems they realized they needed to put a lot of ballast in the trunk of the cars to prevent them from nosing down. There is a lot of interesting information about the cars; what they did with them, where they were built, etc. if anyone is interested in looking. In some cases the cars had to be reused in later years of the show because they were running out of sources for '69 chargers.

Well I am sure they knew the car would suffer severe damage. That is uber cool.

I just learned the chain bath thing recently and have rebuilt several motors over the years without doing that. Never once did I get that squeaking noise during startup or break in. Now that I know it, all future engine rebuilds will certainly see me soaking the timing chain prior to installation. It will likely help with longevity.

Hard to tell from the video, but the sound is certainly metallic sounding so I am inclined to side with the theory that it's coming from the flexplate/torque converter area.

Take a piece of string, fishing line, or whatever you have and put the compressor mid-range on the adjustment bracket. Then run the string around the pulleys and measure the total distance. An auto parts store will help you with the proper belt with that measurement.

Dumb question; was the collar used at different plants? My drivetrain was stock when I got my car and it doesn't have the collar, never did. It has weights on the tube like every other '70s GM car I ever owned so I wonder if the collar was plant-specific.

I know I am late to the party, but my driveshaft doesn't have the collar on it like yours does. If Dennis confirmed that its correct, I have no reason to doubt him as he is the purveyor of all things Monte Carlo. Just saying mine is different. Informal. Collarless, like a t-shirt. Maybe you could get your hands on a driveshaft without the collar and see if it still rubs? Another thought. On my Ford that does indeed have a bent subframe I installed shims (washers) on the trans mount to keep the driveshaft from hitting the floorboard. Maybe you could try that as well?

Atta boy! My kind of members!

👀

No pics? Film must be expensive

Most of the time the "victim" is the credit card company.

Keep us posted. I for one am curious as to what you find is causing the issue.

Intermittent electrical problems are the most difficult to diagnose but now it sounds like its completely dead? That actually should make it easier, however after almost eliminating all the usual components it sounds like it will come down to tracing the voltage thru the system from the fuse block to the starter. The easiest way to do that is using a test light since you get an instant visual of either voltage or not. Regardless, you will likely need a helper to turn the key while you hold the light at whatever pin or connector or terminal you are checking. Personally, I would start with the output of the neutral start switch due to it being the easiest to access. Plus, that will tell you if the problem is between the fuse and the ignition switch or after the NSS. Just take your time and follow the voltage from each input and output. It will take some time but seems like you are down to that anyway. Plus, you have some quality color coded diagrams to follow now thanks to fgmcc!

What does Sanden say about it?

its the same heater box, the Monte and Chevelle. Either source would work.