curtish57

I do have a turning tool and will look specifically at that up on the lift. I looked all in there for shiny spots and didn't see anything but I didn't manually turn it. Also it seems odd for that problem to develop out of nowhere. I'm hoping it's just the starter getting hung up or misaligned. I'll double check the bolts but I tent to agree it's the starter.

No I don't have any flanges on the headers right now

I checked all in the tunnel, no scrapes no chucks of metal, no nothing. The starter seems to be clearing but it's really tight. Also I don't have a fan shroud, I run electric fans so that's out. I read somewhere that a water pump going out can make terrible noises like that too, but again my hearing is jacked and the car still has open headers lol. I ordered a stethoscope and I may con my brother into helping me examine further tomorrow. It's just all so odd because there isn't any outward evidence anywhere.

I do but it isn't installed at the moment.

Yes there is no broken plug in still I broke it on install so I installed an new one and, just left the old iridium one in the last cylinder until I get another today to replace it. Yes that was my first suspicion as it is a new hi torque mini starter and I had clearance issues before I had the plug problem. My main thing is my hearing is bad (too many explosions in the army) and I can't tell if that noise sounds like the starter not disengaging or something more serious. Anything you think other than the starter gear? What else could it be or could plausibly be? That's my instinct as well. It sounds way to much like mechanical screeching to me plus when my head is actually under the hood it doesn't sound like its coming from the front, it sounds like it's coming from the back area. Thank you all for the replies man I really appreciate it!!

Hey all, So I have been chasing my tail for month or more now on a spark issue that turned out to be well, the spark plugs. I had iridium plugs in there since the break in and they were very fouled and gapped to close for an HEI. I replaced all but one as I broke it trying to get around a header so I think the back fire is the one cylinder with the iridum plug in it still, this was only like the second or third start since that. More concerning is that god awful screeching! What could that be? I replaced the stock starter with a high torque mini starter and I speculated it may be binding up but I am not sure. It's not a belt sound to me. Any advice would be appreciated very much. Thank you. Untitled video.mp4

Hey All, I converted my 70 from a 350/350 car to a 454/400 and so now my kickdown is operated via a switch that mounts to the gas pedal rather than the kickdown cable with the 350. My question would be is there a different pedal that came with the 400 auto to operate the switch? No matter how I mount it the pedal doesn't come back far enough to engage it. Am I missing something here? I check the switch electrically and it works fine, passing 12v when depressed but as I say it's way off from touching. Any help or guidance would be appreciated! BTW I have and use the factory assembly manual and though I installed it just as it says but to no avail.

Lol that is pretty good but no not that I know of. I bought it in 2016 and he said it had sat for about 10 years. He owned it since like 74 and used to pull his horse trailer back in the day. Maybe that?

Yes same tires same air.

Hey guys I am trying to figure out a ride height issue I am having. I have a 70 and it is sitting high on the right hand side by about an inch compared to the left. Could this be body mounts or something else? I haven't upgraded anything but the guy I bought it from put air shocks in the rear. They both hold air and I checked with the car up on the lift and they are both even. Any starting place?

Hey guys, curious about my water temp light. It comes on and stays on until the engine warmed up. It's never been on because it's hot as I haven't got it over 210 at the most. Most of the time it's a steady 190. Anyway is this normal?

Hey guys I am having an issue with the passenger side fender at the bottom. How would I get this gap fixed? I shimmed the core support and the driver side seems good, does this side just need an extra shim?

Hey Everyone, Good Monday morning to all who read this, I had a question I would love some help with regarding my 70. So I just go done breaking in my new 454 and it went pretty well, now I am looking to complete the front clip. I put it together enough to run wires and install the inner fenders and what not but I haven't added shims and nothing is tightened into place yet, meaning the fenders and core support. My main question is what order do you go in to get all your gaps correct? Do you shim and tighten down the core support to get your bottom gaps where the fender meets the body or do I shim and tighten the fenders and then move to the core support or do I shim and get my gaps all the way around and then tighten it all down at once. I just don't want to be going back and forth a million times fighting myself. What's your best practices, order of operation, and general notes or fyi I should take into account. Thank you!

Ok yes I removed the AC, thank you I will plug them in case I want to use it again in the future.

Hi All, Looking for info/guidance on these couple lines coming from the firewall. Does this run vac switches inside?

I bought it from Ebay, here it is: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285858218607

It is new yes, I don't think it was damaged per se or just out of the box jacked up. Because like I said the other side lines up really well compared to this side. I'd hate to buy another one and have the same problem. I thought about sourcing some Chevelle steel inners as I heard they fit better.

I did fit them while it was on the lift so that maybe one issue I have. Can I realign it after setting with the inner fender still on?

Take a look at this pic of the passenger side fender and inner fender. How in the heck am I so far off here. The drivers side isn't this bad . Any ideas or place to start?

I am bypassing the heater core altogether, how should I burb it out in that case?

I was planning to run it initially with the rad cap off and check/add as it burps and goes down. Probably by 5 - 10 mins reinstall and continue with the rest of the break in. Would that work?

Thank you for the breakdown on the TDC I will use that. I have a primer and planned to pre-lube, I have a primer bottle to fill the bowls as well. I appreciate the advice on the pump as well, I will scrap that idea and make my life a lot simpler.

Hi All, For initial fire first run break in how do you establish TDC with the valve covers on. TDC is when the 1 cylinder exhaust valve has just begun to open. Is that correct? Also are there any sources you know of or have used that is a good checklist to run through before first run? I found a procedure on an old Chevelle forum that seemed pretty good but I always want more info and tips. The fuel questions I have is in this crudely marked up photo. Right at the red arrow there could be a stainless fuel filter that I got from summit that either came with the Holley fuel rail and gauge or I bought it at the same time I can't remember, either way I am wondering if it is necessary, as you can see I opted not because it sticks way out and looks goofy plus I have a decent quality clear one right where the supply hard line meets the rubber. I didn't get it in this pic but it's there. Do I need two? Would it hurt having two? I thought it could potentially just because of fuel restriction but idk. I am not that experienced and as I said I scraped because of mostly vanity and convenience. Now 2nd and perhaps dumb question lol. I planed or thought about installing a little electric fuel pump in the approximate location where that yellow blob bug looking thing on my pic would go. Pipe it in series with with the mechanical for backup in case of failure and wire it to a simple switch, also installing it would allow me to prime the fuel system as in pressurize ahead of starting to check for leaks and ensure quick fuel delivery on start. Is this a good idea, bad idea, unnecessary?? What about just using the electric to prime it up to the mechanical and not install it. I initially bought it to use it as just a convenient pump to use around the shop when needed but then thought of this. Thanks!

Ok that makes sense I'll change that.

Hey all, Still working on final details of the build and wanted to run this past everyone. Are the ground strap locations I chose sufficient or should I have more. Also are these good spots? Then the vac lines, I have the PCV running to the bottom of the carb, brake boost going to a fitting on the manifold, trans modulator going to another fitting, a vac gauge sharing the brake boost fitting and then for the advance for the distributor is taken off the bottom of the carb where my finger is pointing. Just looking for advice or anything else as I get into the home stretch here so I can move on final wiring!