201fireman

I have poly ones now. The problem is they lifted my motor a lot. There is a link above to the ones I am using now.

Those stock replacements are the ones I am looking at getting now. I was just not sure if the would hold up. I have a 355 that will be pushing around 450hp at the most.

I noticed those are shorter also. They are only 1 3/4 tall but there is 2 5/8" between the ears so they would be 1/4" too wide there. Do you think that would matter? If not it would save me 9/16" in height. Thanks for checking, I would appreciate that.

Does anyone know the stock "height" for 350 motor mounts? I bought these and they raised my engine a lot (fan actually rubbed on the shroud). They have a 2 and 3/16" height from the base to the center of the hole. If anyone can help or send me the part number of the ones you used that would be great. Thanks http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-7-505

Sorry about that, I guess I could have given a little more info. I have a 355 engine. right now it is pretty close to stock with a mild cam. Going in are Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads and a 548 lift cam (hyd. roller). It has an Eaton trutrac 12 bolt posi with Richmond 3:55 gears. I am also looking at a 2400 stall converter. Any thoughts on that converter? Sound ok? I think I am leaning toward the 7 qt. pan. Now I just need to find out how to figure what pick up I need.

Next week I will be upgrading my upper end with aluminum heads and some other goodies. My oil pan is pretty beat up so I am thinking I will replace it (and possibly a nicer timing cover) as long as it has to come down to put in the new cam. Can anyone give any input into these questions. 1. Aluminum pan, steel pan, or doesn't matter? 2. 5 qt. or 7 qt. or doesn't matter? 3. If 7 qt. is the way to go, will I need a new oil pump (current one is already a new high volume one)?

I am installing front springs. I know the white dot on the spring goes up (also the flat end). My lower control arm has a low spot in it that looks like a seat for the end of the spring. There is also 2 drain holes in that area about 2 inches before this seat. Do I put the end of the spring just before the two holes, leaving them both open? I would think so but that would put the end of the spring about 2 inches before the bottom of the seat.

Thanks guys!

Replacing my pump because it is leaking. I can get a reman from the local parts store for $46. Summit racing has one for $158. Can anyone tell me the difference between these two? Is there a certain one anyone would recommend? Reman from Autozone Summit Racing

Is there any reason why this one wouldn't work? This is the one listed for a 72 Chevelle? Wouldn't it be the same thing? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-21287/overview/make/chevrolet

Yea that's what I had in mind. Like I said I am not pushing a ton or horsepower.

Stock it is a 12 bolt, 2:73 open rear end. I have an Eaton Truetrac for a 33 spline and Richmond 3:55 gears. I just need some reasonable axles. I will not be pushing gobs of horsepower so reasonable is the key. I don't want to go overboard for no reason.

I am putting a new posi in and am wondering if upgrading to 33 spline axles would be worth it? Also, why can I not find any 33 spline axles for a 72 on sites like Summit Racing, Jegs, etc.? Does anyone know a part number for some that would work?

I am looking through this post because I just bought a Truetrac but with the 30 spline. Now I am returning it for the 33 spline unit here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtl-914a576 My question is does anyone know the part number for the 33 spline axles that will work with the Truetrac into a stock 12 bolt housing? Thanks!

Thanks for the input guys. Does the one listed in the following link the one you are talking about? Also do the gears in the other link look like the correct ones and is there an install kit of any kind I would need? Posi - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtl-913a555/overview/ gears - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rmg-12bc355/overview/

Thanks for the help guys! One more for you, I am assuming my 12 bolt is an 8.875 series 3. Is this correct and would I have 30 or 33 spline? Thanks again!

Mildly built 355, T350 trans, 12 bolt rear end. Currently has 2:73 open and I am looking at a posi carrier and 3:55s. Any opinions on what beand/type of carrier to get and if the gears are a good fit?

I have been trying to figure out where to run mine as well. I also found Bruce's article very interesting. Just another thought for discussion. The instructions that came with the Edelbrock I bought say to hook to ported vacuum on emission controlled engines. I believe it stated to go to manifold vacuum for non-emission controlled engines. I am not sure why this is but found it interesting. Can anyone shed any light on why? Just curious.

Scott, would you mind me asking why you switched them? I have been thinking of doing the same thing. Are you happy with them? Does the car sit different? Thanks!

I have a chance to get a 70 Nova posi rear end with an Auburn center and 3:73 gears for $300. Is this worth it and will it (the carrier and gears) fit in my 72 small block in place of the current 12 bolt open 2:73?

Stall converter or not? I have a 355 mildly built. I am rebuilding my T350 trans and putting a shift kit in it. What are your thoughts on a stall converter. Advantages and disadvantages? Good stall speed to go with for a motor like mine? Also, is there a stall in a factory converter and if so, what is it set at?

I have a 12 bolt open with 2:73 gears. I have a chance to buy a posi carrier and a ring/pinion gear set (3:55) for $250. Is this worth it and will it go in with my stock axles?

I look forward to reading it. This is very interesting to those of us who haven't dug into differentials...yet! I have a 12 bolt but it is an open 12 bolt with 2:73's. I would love to find some 3:55's for it.

Winston - That was a very interesting article on advance. If you look at the posted topics, I posted one right above this one asking about throttle response because I seemed to have lost some. After reading this article I realized that at the same time I seemed to have lost my throttle response, I moved my advance from the manifold to ported vacuum because it says to in the directions from Edelbrock. The interesting thing is I had 19 " on vacuum way back when I used manifold vacuum and the other night I hooked up the vacuum gauge (keep in mind that now I am on ported) to adjust my air/fuel mixture screws and I was at 15. Tomorrow I will be moving it back to manifold vacuum to see if I get my throttle response back. Thanks for the very interesting post!!!

Saw this on Ebay. I noticed the vacuum advance looks like it is plugged off and both the ports on the front of the carb are plugged. I was just curious if anyone knows why this would be or what the benefit would be. Again, just curious. Link