kc8oye

I ordered my new flexplate and bolts today from SummitRAcing. I opted for the SummitRacing Brand (I believe might be made by TCI, they sure look identical, same specs too) it's SFI 29.1 approved (always nice) and is .035 thicker then stock flex plates. My local trans shop suggested I get this style flex plate as they're stronger and don't flex as much. besides, if I get serious about drag racing, the tech inspectors might like the fact I'm running a SFI-approved flex plate I also ordered the lower-end (read cheaper) ARP flexplate bolts too.. I Figured if I had to pay $11 handling fee, I might as well pitch in another $8 and get the better bolts. once the 700r4 is in, I'm going to look into an SFI-approved FluiDampr torsional damper. my only concern now, is did I guess right that I needed a 168-tooth flywheel?

dont' even consider the 400.. it's way too heavy, way too expensive, and way to ineffecient for a 330hp engine. don't over look your local hole-in-the-wall tranny shops. I have a trans shop right across the street that the guy has been running in his home barn for 20 years and he build rocksolid trannies for dirt, dirt cheap. there's my 3 cents :>

hrrm ok, thanks david.. I thought they were the same, but I wasn't sure. I think I'm just going to go ahead and put the trans in, then fit my drive shaft into the trans only, then I can measure ujoint on the driveshaft yoke, to ujoint on the rear diff and see if leo can hook a fella up

are the 12 bolt diff's 'deeper' then a 10-bolt? I.E the drive shaft yoke sits closer to the engine on a 12 then a 10? I'm trying to figure out how rob's driveshaft is 53" long with a small block & 6" tail housing th350c... but mine is 55" with teh same setup.. the only difference is I have a 10.. he has a 12 bolt.

well, I just measured mine, 55-1/4" ujoint to ujoint. with only about 1/2" of yoke sticking out of the tail housing. my crossmember location won't mean anything to you because I use an impala crossmeber solid-bolted to the frame. (no rubber bushings)

ahh ok.. I'm pretty sure I have the 6" tail housing on my TH350 so I guess I would have to get it shortened. that's simple enough. thanks for the input!

I was reading through some old posts.. and some people have used their existing driveshaft, and some have had to have them shortened.... Rob (70montecar) says he used his driveshaft as-in with his BTO 700r4... is this somthing special BTO does to the trans? This is the last piece of the puzzle I need before I embark on the cost of the swap :> and since I may have murdered my TH350's front pump.. I might be swapping fairly soon :>

the 4L80e is also insanely heavy. not really the hot ticket for a car that's already pushing 4000 lbs.

The pump was engaged.. I never dis-engaged it. somehow I managed to 'warp' the flex plate is the best way I can describe it.. the engine seems alright... but like I said.. I think I may have trashed the front pump. I'm gonna check with the trans shop and see if they'll sell me a new front pump assembly cheap.. if they will I'll swap it out and live with that until I have all the stuff to do the 700r4 the way I want to.

WWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got it fixed :> I just loosed all 3 bolts.. and then spun the engine over with the starter a few times (ignition disconnected) when I heard a 'thunk' and a change in the noise from the starter. then I used a prybar to put light forward pressure on the torque converter while I bolted it up... however, I fear I may have done damage to the front pump. it slips *BAD* near idle. it's usually only in 1st, but if I hit 2nd at low rpm, I can feel it there too. *sigh* oh well. .glad I'm goin to a 700r4 soon.

well as some of you might know, I've just put a brand new engine in my monte.. and on the test drive I noticed a VIOLENT vibration @ 3000 rpm... I got it up on jackstands and let it idle, and just looking at the flexplate/torque converter, I can see them both wobbling back and forth a good 1/2 inch or so... I'm just wonder what would do this.. did I get somthing miss-aligned when I bolted the two together? or is it maybe more serious and I may be looking at new bushings for the front of the tranny? (th350c trans)

JR... 10bolts are tougher then that!! leo had a 10bolt posi under his 67 chevelle with a stout 400 sbc in it.

yah.. i wouldn't recomend slicks with that kind of power. however.. if you add C-clip eliminators, and a bearing-girdle-cover, and if you want to.. some quality aftermarket axles, you will have a solid reliable rear.

i don't like numeric gauges. I've been having problems with my speedo in the oldsmobile.. so I've been using the Tech-1 computer scanner as a speedo.. and it's far harder to hold a steady speed looking at number, then it is to hold a needle on a line :>

i'm going to have my buddy help me flat-tow my monte over to mom's house for the engine swap.. it's only about 5 miles. I was just wondering if it would be worth it to purposely over-fill the transmission with trans fluid so that the rotating assemblies would be able to "Splash lubricate" themselves? or would it be better to just leave it alone and take it sloww and easy? I have a drain plug, so removing excess fluid would not be difficult. (i COULD remove the driveshaft.. but I don't feel like getting into that if I don't need to) oh btw.. it's a late 80's TH350c (with lock-up torque converter)

I was close.. they are 215/65-15 Firestone Firehawks

haha i like your response leo :>

I just guessed at the #'s 502... I WILL be running 3200 @ 70 with the 3.55's.. at least I think that's what I calcuated. I run about 2400 right now with the TH350c locked up in 3rd gear with 2.73:1 axle and whatever size tires lol. i want to say they are 225/60-15's but I might be wrong.

That's kinda what prompted me to make the swap.. not that turning 3200 rpm @ 70mph is terrible.. but why do 3200 when I can do 1700? :>

welp.. I stopped in at the local trans shop (Across the street) and inquired about having a 700r4 built for a 400hp small block... $600 I was floored at how cheap it was (no R&R labor tho) so I just gotta find a good core to get to them... :> i think it won't be until after christmas as funds are stretched a bit right now... but when I get those 3.55's in.. I think I'll appreciate the overdrive :>

I have an advertisement from a company that makes 'warranty strips' for transmissions... when the trans exceeds a certain temp, each section will change color.. they generally suggest that you want to keep the trans at the same temp as the engine.. lower is always better. I would even venture to say that over 220°F is _REALLY_REALLY_ bad for an auto trans.

I'm glad I don't use the rocker trim

the only thing you might need if you don't have it already, is the floor shift shift bracket for the transmission (that has the extra arm and slot for the shift cable) you will need to retain all the column shift equipment (removing only teh shift lever itself) if you want your backup lights, and nuetral saftey switch, steering column lock, and ignition lock to all function correctly. or you will need a complete manual shift column

Leo's no saint... he's more like a God :>

hah, I couldnt' get my tires to spin from a standstill in 2nd gear if I wanted to