dbreese

That's good to hear Mike. Yep. Kind of wondering if those that had problems with them mushrooming had excessive cam end play causing the f/p lobe eccentric to walk back and forth across the tip. Just a theory. David

Pushing the tree Mike!!!! WTG. I forgot if you leave off a T-brake. .00's lights and running the number will get ya the round win every time. David

Sounds like a plan Jason!!! Keep us posted! David

There was a big debate awhile back over on TC about f/p pushrods for billet core cams and what was better, bronze tip or carbon fiber composite. I can't comment on the composite rod as I have never used one but people had issues with the bronze tip mushrooming out and making it darn near impossible to remove. I was doing a little under hood work and for grins and giggles I pulled my fuel pump (billet Holley 170 with a Trend pushrod) and checked the pushrod tip for wear. This is what I found after approximately 2000 miles of driving. I run Joe Gibbs HR3 15w50 full synthetic and a K&N filter and change my oil every 3000 miles The tip showed no signs of uneven wear. The tip surface was shiny and the edges looked fine, no nicks or chips. I was able to verify the contact surface was flat by using a small bubble gage with the rod standing on a level surface. The rod body had witness marks where it rides in bore but that is normal. The contact surface that rides on the fuel pump lever looked fine and the lever arm had the usual witness marks from where the rob end rides. Will I have to replace the rod at some point, yes. The bronze is a sacrificial material just like the bronze distributor gears. I will keep an eye on the wear and let ya know if something changes. Just a little FYI David

Nice job Jason!! Your mph is good for 11's. You really knocked a chunk out of your sixty foot. WTG!!! Nothing broke and no bent sheet metal is a good day at the track!!! David

Very nice!!!! Wonder if they would need a s/b first gen as a fixture car for mock up? LOL!!! I would volunteer mine for discount on a set. David

I see a new best coming. Have fun and post up the new time. David

That is freaking AWESOME looking !!! Bad to the bone. Keep posting pic's please. David

Treed by Eric!LOL Good sign the engine spins over!!! Drain oil put in fresh and new filter. Fresh plugs. Check fuel filter. Good charge on battery. Check cables/ connections Check rubber fuel lines/ clamps. If points type distributor a new set of points and condenser. Check radiator hoses/heater hoses. Might want to check the radiator. 25 year old antifreeze might be pretty nasty. Check transmission fluid . When ya get it fired up check for leaks. Have a fire extinguisher handy just in case Good luck and post some pic's of your new ride. David

Hey Nick, Here is a good read from Holley and you should be right in the ball park with that pump. http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Fuel%20Pump%20Tech%20Info.pdf I would also get a fuel pump relay kit. David

WOW!!!! That is one clean lx install. Very nice work!!! Performance and economy all rolled into one. AWESOME!!! David

That would send people running!! David

Good advise Mike. Some other things to consider; Driveshaft loop just in case something lets go you don't destroy the floorpan of that beautiful Monte ya have. Helmet that meets current NHRA (SA2010) rules and since you are spraying a fire jacket sfi 3-2a/1 as a minimum sfi 3-5a/2 would be better. Fire extinguisher mounted to where you can reach it. I have a Bell Sport Full Face Helmet with Nomex lining and a full DJ racing 3-5a/2 race jacket, pants, gloves and neck collar and shoes. I have a my extinguisher mounted to a bracket that is bolted to the existing front seat bracket studs drivers side. You can never be to safe. I had a tech guy check me in one time at a track and he kinda half chuckled cause of my fire suit. I told him that you can burn to death just as quick in a low 11 second car as you could a 7 second car. He agreed. LOL Just more food for thought. David

414 s/b ,10.5:1 Callies Compstar crank 3.875 stroke, Eagle Rods 5.85 length, JE forged pistons Motown II 400 Block. Cam motion solid roller tight lash cam .688 in/ 254 dur @ .050 .631 ex 263 dur@ .050 on a 110 lsa. A well worked over Edelbrock Vic Jr intake ( so I could keep the stock hood) Jesel sportsman shaft rockers. Profiler aluminum 210 heads with a little work 2.08 intake valves and 1.60 exhaust.valves. PAC 1243 springs with titanium retainers. REV valves. Trend tapered 7/16" pushrods. Carb is a custom Pro Systems 950. MSD ignition 6AL box and a 85551 distributor locked out at 35 degrees. Runs on pump premium. Made 574 hp @6500 rpm and 520 ft/lbs@ 5100 of torque on the engine dynamometer. David

Engine combo looks nice and the converter and cam IMHO match well. Sticky tires and you will be in the high 11's with no other changes. 12.15 is close. You are almost there on street tires. Taking weight off especially the hood could net ya another .10. Work on the 60' and with a 150 shot you could very well go deep into the 11's. Here is a crappy photo of a launch of may old heap. David

Hi Jason, 1.47 is a wicked quick 60' on street tires. Heck my best 60 was 1.59 an et's are in my sig. You can try a set of Mickey Thompson Street Drag Radials (275/60-15 seems like a popular choice and what I use). Give some specs on the engine and what rear gear and converter stall you have. Shocks and springs make a big difference on how a car hooks and leaves. David

I think it will be a huge improvement in the handling of the car by keeping the tire contact flat during hard cornering instead of the tire rolling over on its sidewall. According to UMI they work with 1-2" drop springs With the appropriate springs and shocks and having the rear suspension up graded ya out to have a Monte that would handle exceptional well. I have there rear lower arms control arms and braces that replace the flimsy factory ones that tie the upper and lower rear arms together. Of course mine is more straight line performance type suspension.LOL! UMI makes awesome products right here in the USA and they have great customer service! Here is a tech tip link in regards to tall balljoint control arms. http://umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_251_272 David

Good read from Stewart Water pumps on t-stats http://stewartcomponents.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=11 Like suggested by the others re-install the t-stat. You also may have air in the cooling system that can cause hot spots and cooling issues. With the engine cold remove the cap and crank the engine up. The t-stat will open and coolant will begin to flow when the engine gets to operating temp. With the cap off air will be burped from the system. You should see air bubbles in the coolant coming out of the cooling flues as it circulates. These will dissipate as the system purges the air. You may get a big burp and the coolant level will drop way down in the radiator. No big deal just refill until it is 3" inches or so from the top. Put the cap on and take her for a spin. Give it a try. David

Try Year one. I got both paint, dye and prep from them. David

I had a bunch of 1/4 mile passes and lots of street miles with the stock replacement mounts and that 385 made pretty good power. IMHO you will be fine with stock mounts. No muss no fuss. David

Todd, Could you use a stock replacement with the lock http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Motor-Mount-Front/_/R-BK_6021107_0434790287 Can't remember your engine specs. I had these on my last engine 385 and they held up for seven years before the drivers side gave up. The locking t-bar kept the fan out of the shroud. I have Moroso solid mounts on my current mill with a factory rubber trans mount. Trying to remember what mod #. Everything fits fine. David

Sounds like you are well on the way to having the Monte back on the road! What type of cam will you have? Hydraulic Flat Tappet or Hydraulic Roller. This will dictate what break in procedure for the cam is needed. Once you get the cam broken in and change the oil, go out and have fun and mash the loud pedal. David

Making some great progress!!!! That is gonna be one wicked Pro-Street Monte! David

Those are some tight 60's Dave. Sacrifice some ET for consistence is a good tradeoff any day. David

Slick videos Dave. You really have that car dialed in both engine and suspension. Great job!! David