dbreese

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston All you wanted to know but were afraid to ask about hyperutectic pistons. LOL! David

Tear it down and take it to a trusted machine shop. They can mic the cylinders and also magnaflux the block and cylinder heads to check for cracks. If the block is good have them go .030 or even .040 over if they need to. Plenty of kits available out there. You may want to go with a stroker kit and turn the mill into a 383. Lots of extra torque which is needed to get our land yachts moving!lol Check jegs or summit. Kits by eagle and scat with some forged pistons would be nice. If you decide to co the stroker route you can get a set of dart 200 cc iron eagles with 2.02 intake valves and 1.60 exhaust. Combine this with a nice hydraulic roller cam and an edelbrock rpm intake you would have a potent bullet. The block would need to be machined for the extra stroke but that is not a big deal. If it is a two bolt main I would stud the main caps just for a little extra strength on the bottom end. Just some suggestions. David

GM High Performance HEI(Jegs or Summit) is around 200.00. GM plug 8mm wires, plugs gapped at .040. Not sure what plug type but I'm sure someone will chime in. Just some suggestions. David

Bent wheels are not good and could be the cause of your vibration. I had two steel rallyes that were bent and they did cause a vibration. Had a bent weld draglite on the front years ago that also caused a vibration. Like stated above make sure your bushings in your upper and lower trailing arms are in good shape and mounting bolts are tight. This could cause your wheel hop issues. Good luck, David

What are the spec's on your engine? If it has an aftermarket cam you may want to put in more initial timing. David

Oh so close!!!! Damn ya got the car hauling. When you moved your shift point up I guess the engine didn't care and never ran out of steam. Wind it up a little tighter and you are in the 9's. Great job!!!!! That is a heck of a bullet! David

ooops i'm late Glen, Sounds like you may have an air pocket in the cooling system. Take the rad cap off and crank the car and run the engine. When the engine gets to operating temp and the t-stat opens you should see water moving through the rad. also move y your heater control to hot on to make sure the air gets pushed out of the core as the coolant flows through. You may also try drilling a 3/16" hole in the t-stat flange to help bleed any air out of the system. Just some suggestions. David

Yep that is true!!! !! Check the simple stuff first as this is usually the culprit. David

WOW that is expensive!! I bought one from summit for around 100.00 US and it wings my 10.5 :1 little old s/b locked out with 36 degrees of timing without issue. David

check radiator and heater hoses and make sure clamps are tight and that there are not any splits or pinholes in the hoses. Check your radiator cap to make sure it is working properly and is sealing and not blowing coolant from the neck. If you can borrow a coolant pressure tester fill up the rad with water and pressurize the system. Also look for leaks at the water pump. Check dipstick and make sure it doesn't have water in the oil(milky looking). That would indicate a cracked head or head gasket issue. That would be the worse case situation. David

Check and make sure your starter bolts are tight. If so, your bendix could be going bad and not fully engaging the pinion gear from the starter to the teeth on flex plate which will make that awful grinding noise. If you have a place that rebuilds starters you could go that route or you could just stop at your local auto parts store and pickup a remanufactured starter with a warranty. If your engine is fairly wild you could get a gear reduction style starter from summit or jegs. Pick your poison!lol David

3.73 and 200-4r would be a nice combo. I have a 3.73 and th 350 and it is ok on the highway at around 70 mph but boy does it like the gas. LOL David

IIRC Auburn L/S are not rebuildable. I had an eaton in my 8.2 and it gave me great service and performance. Yukon is also another nice L/S carrier. Both are rebuildable. I have an eaton tru trac in my Moser 12 bolt. Very smooth and works well at the track. David

Man you are striking the tires hard!! Suspension is working well. David

Way to go Mike. I agree with others when ya get it dialed in it will run 9's. Got your license yet? Awesome job!!! David

WOW!!!!! How sano is that install!!! Looks great Mike with much attention to detail. Get that beast to the track!! David

You will need some specialty tools, dial indicator to set back lash, hydraulic press to install the pinion bearing, and a good working knowledge on how to set the clearances to get the proper pinion depth and get the gear pattern on the ring gear. David

You will need a 3 series carrier. Sorry I should have put that in my last post. You could contact Monzaz for your rear end needs. . I have dealt with Jim before and he can hook you up with what ya need. David

If it is a 1972 with a s/b it is more than likely an 8.2 unless some swapped it out for 8.5. If it is an 8.2 I would suggest 3.36's. Nice to cruise with and will still give ya some performance. David

Awesome Mike!!! That brute has 11's in it easy. Glad ya had a good time and nothing broke. That is always a good day at the track. David

Looks great Mike! Whose belt drive are you using? That is a slick setup!! Keep posting updates with pics. David

I have a set of Moroso custom v/c with breathers. They have baffles built in the tubes and it was kinda slow going when adding new oil. Now I just pull a the v/c off of the drivers side and pour away. V/C gaskets are reusable and have a metal shim so ya can't over tighten. David

http://www.gates.com/products/automotive...rgrip-sb-clamps Glen I think this is what Mike is talking about. Haven't used them but I hear good things about them David

I can't believe I'm saying this, being diehard s/b guy , but you could sell the the 383 and use that money to offset the purchase of a b/b. A mild b/b would make an easy 500 hp and a butt load of torque( Needed for our land yachts to get moving) and still be very street friendly. Just a suggestion. Here is a builder who gets it done and lots of positive reviews. http://www.vortecproperformance.com/engine_combinations.html Pick your poison. I'm one of those that dared to be different and ended up with pretty stout s/b which IMHO is street friendly and runs on pump premium. David

3" system from Torque Tech with X-pipe and Pypes Race Pro mufflers(14" case) with 1 3/4" primary long tube headers with a 3" collector. Engine is a 414 s/b 23 degree head that runs on pump premium (93). http://www.torquetechexh.com Above is their site. Great people to deal with and fit and finish are awesome. As far as back pressure, you don't want any as this will hurt performance. This is an old hot rod myth that you want some amount of back pressure. The x-pipe will help scavenge exhaust gasses and clear out the cylinder and combustion chamber of residual exhaust gas that might be lingering and contaminating the incoming fuel air charge thus making it more efficient i.e. more power. If you are looking for every bit of HP (racing) out of your mill the x-pipe my be the way to go. It also will tame the exhaust note and in my case make my engines' cam seem much milder than the numbers show. The h-pipe is a good setup as it equals out exhaust pulses at idle an helps with exhaust system resonance at cruise. It can also help with low end torque. I'm sure others will chime in that are much more knowledgeable than I on this subject. David