dbreese

Hey Jared, I bought a Stant locking fuel cap which has a much thicker sealing gasket than the factory twist on cap. That solved my fuel spillage out of the filler neck. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/snn-10571/overview/year/1972/make/chevrolet/model/monte-carlo David

582 good gosh!!!!! As others have stated you really need to step up your feed line size. -8 like Sam said, as a minimum -10 would be better. If you are staying with your stock tank and I suggest that you install a Robbmc 1/2" pickup. It fits the stock tank and is set up to use the factory gas gauge (90 ohm ending unit) and has a return port if you decide to go to a return style regulator. http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/1069_gmsend.html David

Great job Greg! Glad ya had fun. Your mph through the traps is good for easy 11's just like Sam said. Get the 60' down and you are there. Not sure what engine you have but if you have a stock fuel pump you might want to go aftermarket. If the car is nosing over as your rpm increases and towards the end of the run then it is an indicator that running out of fuel. Make sure you have a at least 1/2 a tank of gas to keep the tank pickup covered if you have a stock configuration. Keep us updated. David

Very slick!!!! David

Joe Gibbs HR 15w-50. Solid roller engine. Amsoil is good stuff also. I use their transmission fluid. David

WOW!!! That is some serious attention to detail. Very nice work. Welcome to the forum. David

Very nice Mike. How would ya like to do another? That's a lot of man hours of work! David

Smaller mufflers I would agree with the above posts about flipping the bolts around. Looks really good!!! David

Years ago I was running gas shocks front/rear (Bumper to Bumper brand replacments) 3.36 gears and a pump gas 385. Car handled great on the street and with some sticky tires ran 12.9's. If your car is going to see limited strip time I would run what ya have. David

^^^^^^^^^^^ Slick !!!!! : David

BMR. Good stuff. Are you running an x-pipe or h-pipe in your exhaust system? This might cause fitment issues with the loop. If not you are golden!! David

Hey Mike. Where the an fitting comes through the frame I'm guessing about 7/16" to a 1/2". The inlet on the pump at least a 1/4". WIth the fitting it sticks out far enough there are no clearance issues. No problems getting a wrench on it. It is really hard to see in the photos but if you climb underneath with a light shining from the top and side I'm good with it. I'm running a Trend fuel pump pushrod with the bronze tip (billet core cam). Have you had any wear issues on the tip? I have read where guys running the bronze tipped rods have had them mushroom out. I spoke with the tech guy at Trend and he said in jest "Yeah if ya but it in backwards" LOL!!. They have had zero issues with this. I'm gonna check mine at about 500 miles just out grins and giggles. I think some of the issues may be those with that had excessive cam endplay causing the eccentric to rub on the tip. Yeah that pump is a really nice piece and if supports that beast of an engine you have I have no worries with my piddley s/b. LOL David.

First off Mark, thanks for your service to our country. Looks like a nice build. Darts are nice heads. I would call Coan, ATI, Trans Specialties, PATC for there recommendation on the converter. Might be able to save some cash. I'm partial to Coan. Quality product great customer service. As for headers other than a custom set ($1100-1500) Shoenfeld out of AR is the only company that makes 1 3/4" headers to fit first gen s/b Monte's for 190.00. They WILL NOT fit a car with A/C. It took me a long time to find a set to fit my mill. If ya have a/c a set of 1 5/8" heddmans will fit fine. I had a set of hooker (Heddmens are better quality)1 5/8" with 2.5 exhaust and with my old 385 hyd flat tappet that would run mid 12's. That was with Pro Topline(Now RHS) 200cc iron heads. I'm a carb guy and I don;t know much about efi but I know some guys that have had much success with the FAST system. You might want to look at Holley's Avenger line. Great carbs out of the box. I"m sure other will chime in. Good luck with the build. David

[/url] [/url] [/url] And a cool one from Drag Week. Have know idea where I was. I think KY [/url] Anyway as most of ya know that installing a hp pump on a s/b has always been an issue because of the setback of the engine in the crossmember. Well with some massaging with heat and a dollies my friend ( body shop owner) was able to get the clearance I needed. Had to work the hole through the crossmember to get the clearance for the fitting. The pictures of the are a little deceiving as there is about an 1/8" all around and underneath. Plenty with solid motor mounts. Changed the plumbing out so now I just reused my 1/2" Robbmc p/u and -8 stuff all the way to the carb. Started the car up, one small leak which was just a quick tighten with the wrench. The pump doesn't require a regulator and is pre-set at 7.5 psi. Gauge was steady at 7.5. Still need to tidy up underneath with some adel clamps. Please excuse the mess. I haven't cleaned the car up since Drag Week. She will get a good cleaning next weekend. David

After massaging the front crossmember and installing a holley hp 170 mechanical pump, I'm re-plumbing the fuel system from the current electric fuel pump system. Removing the pump, return line, wiring, relay and regulator. All -8 stuff. David

One more foot and your on the bumper. That is some serious hang time. AWESOME!!! That thing would hook in a carwash!!!! David

Yep...... even with my slow heap!!! David

As I was leaving the track and went to stop at a light and the pedal just about went to the floor. Thank goodness I was creeping along as I approached the light. Limped it across the street and pulled into a convenient store lot. Looked underneath and saw fluid on the bottom of the pumpkin. Got a little on my finger, brake fluid. Had a guy push the brakes and saw fluid spray from the line near the fitting that went to the tee. Clamped off the rubber line with some vise grips and eased down the block to ADvanced auto got a 40" piece of brake line and bent it around to make it work. Bled the brakes and got back on the road to Indy. Got to Indy about 1:00 am the next morning. David

Hey Guys, If you are running an aftermarket rear housing where the upper control mount ears are located higher please make sure you have enough clearance between the mount ears and your hard brake lines that run from the tee on the housing. I had a line that rubbed long enough that it finally split( never noticed it ) as I was leaving the track at Bowling KY to make the drive to Indy during Drag Week. Would have been bad enough at the track if it failed (Sand City at the end) but really could have been ugly on the road. David

Stewart Stage I mechanical pump (cast iron). Great pump! Ran one on my old 385 never an issue. On the new mill I have a stage II (aluminum) and again zero issues. Make sure that the rest of your cooling sysytem is up to par. Radiator, fan, fan clutch, shroud and t-stat. David

I have a TCI stacked plate cooler http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-824104. I have it plumbed through my radiator (aluminum 2 row with 1" tubes). Came with fittings, lines and clamps. It has worked great behind my s/b, th350 with a 5000 flash stall Coan converter. Fluid always looks good. I run Amsoil synthetic fluid and a deep B&M transmission pan. I live in S/GA and our summers are brutal. David

I know you have been ripping it up this season. You will do well Dave. I have been trying to get to the track but the weather has not been cooperating and work has just been off the hook. The car is ready though. Took it on a 200 mile drive in the heat of the day, back roads in town driving and then a 60 mile blast down I-75. Car never ran hot. Craig and the guys at Coan did a great job on the re-stall. Who would thunk that you could drive a 4900 stall converter on the street /highway. LOL Take care, David

What's up there Dave? I have been following the thread over on TC. Interesting stuff. You have done a bunch of trial and error and it looks like you have come up with a good combo. I don't have any issues cause I'm not making stupid power like you. . When I decide to try slicks I will use your data developed during your testing. Keep up the great work!!! BTW I have the car ready to go on Drag Week. Just need to change the oil, check the lash and do a bolt check to make sure nothing falls off!!! David

Very nice pull!!! Sounds great. Looks a lot like my car sans the wheels and tires. Green means go!!!! David

Ok. Found a bolt in mount. It is a universal kit from OG Racing made by Brey and Krause http://www.ogracing.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/5188/image/1931/ This is a trick deal and could go in just about any vehicle. Easy install and a very quality piece. All stainless steel. I was able to bolt it in using the existing seat mount bolts (drivers side) from the floor. The kit is nearly infinitely adjustable and does not interfere with seat adjustment. It will put the extinguisher to where I can reach with ease. Hope I never need it but ya never know Waiting for the Halguard extinguisher and drake quick release mount. I'll post pic's when complete David