Pops Toy

Had the same problem a little while back. I assume it's the original wiring? If so. I found on mine to be corrosion in the wires under the insulation especially where the connectors meet. Probing the wires backwards from the connectors let me know how far back to go and then spliced in a weatherproof connector. I've have recently replaced forward lamp harness from M&H Electrical Fabricators and there's been a 100% difference in how my Monte charges, brightness of lights, etc.

You were right, it was the starter and it had a limited lifetime warranty. This fire with the harness seemed to have surged quite a few electronics. Now, other little problems popping up.

New problem today. Actually this happened when the forward lamp harness burnt up. Went to start the car and got one click then one click each time. After 3rd time it started and the starter kept running also and when I turned the key off everything kept running (engine and starter). Rushed under the hood and pulled the positive wire from HEI distributor to stop the engine and had to disconnect battery cable to get the starter to stop. Starter is brand new Duralast only 3 months old. When I went to hook the positive to HEI up I noticed it has 2 wires (red and blue). Red goes towards passenger side of engine compartment and blue goes behind wiper motor into a harness on the left side of the block on the fire wall. Thinking about it, the single clicks started about a month ago before all the electrical problems. My thought is the starter is bad and/or the ignition switch. Anyone else have any other suggestions? Sorry for the long post but just want to be thorough.

I replaced the junction cable with 14ga so now that part is correct. The main problem turned out to be the horn relay. The car is up and running and now all the other little problems I had that I thought were separate and individual apparently were not. I didn't think the forward lamp wiring harness and the horn relay pretty much control power for everything. Thanks again everyone for the help.

I need to replace that fusible link. The auto parts store fusible links are just a wire without the bulge in it. Is it ok to use that and if so what guage?

Got my new harness from M&H today with the new battery cable junction block. M&H harness looks great. Got it all installed but the car still has no power at all anywhere. Any help is greatly appreciated as I'm frustrated and confused at this point.

Anyone have suggestions which company is best for the forward lamp harness?

Thanks Sam. any suggestions besides American Auto Wire for a new harness?

You were correct on that it's called Forward Lamp Harness. I removed the whole harness. Do you know if it will run without the harness with exception of not having lights, instrument panel, etc?

Thanks. The problem found me.Grounds were the first thing I checked and am going to check again. It was the wiring behind the battery that was ran through a cut out and had been rubbing it seems over time. There were some accessories installed and they ran the cable through a non factory cut out that has jagged edges to try and make it clean. When doing the accessories, I had them replace the battery tray which is when they obviously made the cut out for neatness but should've placed a grommet there. Since it was a so called friend of mine, I didn't bother to double check their work. On other question, I think it should at least run with the battery cables and alternator cable hooked up? I just won't have headlights, blinkers, etc.

After checking connections first because it was easiest all looked and seemed fine. Then I went for checking behind the battery and long story short, found where the problem was after putting the fire out. Yes, I did say fire that went from behind the battery all the way across the front of the radiator under the upper radiator support. I guess tomorrow I'll call American Autowire for a new harness. After removing the harness,c an I at least start the car without that harness just to pull the car out of the garage to clean up the mess? I can push it out but my driveway is to steep to be able to push it back in. BTW does anyone know what that harness is called (engine harness, headlight harness, etc)?

Was out cruising last night and when I hit a bump, radio/dash/headlights shut off but car stays running. While on a smooth road to the house everything kept shutting off and on. Made it to my driveway, got out to move my truck and when I got back into the Monte and stepped on the brake pedal, all cut out again. Any ideas where to start?

The quote you supplied was very informative and makes sense, thanks. I'm not sure what kind of springs are installed. It has the same ones from when I bought the car 7 years ago. The shocks are brand new Monroe Sensatracs. The height all the way around is 26 1/2 inches from floor to fender lip. I was thinking of installing new stock springs all around with anti-hop bars from QA1 and new sway bars. I haven't done anything to raise the height. This all started with just having the vibration on the highway since I bought the car. The wheel hop on burn outs started when I had the 10 bolt rear converted to posi with 3:73 gears. Any opinion on anti-hop or no-hop bars?

Here's what's been done since my last login. Replaced Rally wheels with American Racing Outlaw II 15X8 & BF Goodrich T/A 255/60/15 with road force balance, Monroe Sensa Tracs, UMI Performance upper and lower non adjustable control arm kit, and Lakewood ladder bars. Now the rear is bouncy but no more hop with still some vibration on the highway in the 70-80 range and the steering seems different(not in a good way). Took the ladder bars off to test the hop without them but now I can start a burn out but have to let off after a few seconds and steering still seems different. I'm thinking of replacing the coils all around, installing QA1 anti hop bars, and new stabilizer bars instead of installing the ladder bars back again. I don't go to the track so I think ladder bars may have been too much. Unless there's a way to use the ladder bars and not have the rear so bouncy. Any suggestions out there are greatly appreciated.

How does the car ride when just cruising with jegs lift bars? I'm getting my car back today from the interior shop and am going to look into everyone's suggestions. I'll let everyone know what I find. This is a great club and I'm glad to be a part of it.

I'll try to find a shop that can do a forced balance. As far as the burn out, my car started vibrating as soon as the tires started spinning at a stand still and I let off the gas right away. I haven't done a burn out since having new shocks and tires put on this past Thursday. Could the coil springs play a part with this problem? It sits 26 1/2 in high all the way around from floor to wheel well lip. The car went from tire shop to interior for a new headliner so I try one on Monday and see what happens and let you know how it responds. Figured I'd get some FGMCC input during this downtime.

I have a 70 Monte, 355, 700r4 trans, and 12 bolt posi with 3:73 gears. New rally rims,(that I was told are bent but that's how steel rims are), brand new BF Goodrich ta's 255/60R/15 & Monroe Sensatracs (tires & shocks installed 2 days ago). I have a vibration, that feels like all wheels, at 70-75 mph. I tried to do a burn out and the whole car shook like it was going to fall apart and the next day new tires and shocks. My question is with the 700r4 and posi rear, do I need to do more to the suspension? I've been told that with the 700r4 transmission that I need to install a torque bar from the trans to the rear end. Does anyone know if there's a possibility of this having any truth to it or do I need to update suspension for posi rear? My main problem is not finding a good shop in Orlando, Florida and have been wasting lots of time and money. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I guess you broke a few and luckily no one got locked in lol. I'm going to give it a shot. Thanks

I'll give it a shot. Thanks

Is there a way to take the cover off the push button?

1970 Monte Carlo beanch seat-seat belts won't unlatch. They are not rusty just stuck. The GM symbol is stuck down towards the front and all the way up towards the back. Any tips or trick would be appreciated. Thanks Chris

Ok everyone, here's what I found yesterday. You were all correct in different ways. I replaced the headlight switch, turn signal relay and all the bulbs because it was not expensive and easy to do. All had some corrosion and rust. It started working but still not quite right. Cleaned up all the grounds and put new connectors on them. I cleaned up the connectors under the hood that also had corrosion and rust. Went for a ride, then right turn signal was working intermittently. Lastly, it turns out that the corrosion and rust had made it's way down into the wiring beneath the wires coating but only in small sections. I had to poke through the coating with my test light to find how far apart the good and bad sections were in the wires. I made new connectors and rewired and all is working now. I want to thank everyone for the help. This is a great community and I'm glad to be a part of it. Hopefully, I can be helpful with my knowledge as well. Thanks again!

All the lights stop flashing when I hit the brake pedal. The flashers seem to blink at a normal rate but I do have faint flashing of front blinkers (had to look at very closely). I replaced the headlight switch and the turn signal/flasher relay today but noticed the connector has 6 wires and the headlight switch has 7 terminals (which was also what I took out). Could this make a difference? I put a test light to all the terminals to check for power and noticed when I accidently touch the metal housing for the instrument panel, my light lit up. Another strange thing was, with the headlights on, turning the key to start the car I get idiot lights but no cranking. Turned the headlights off and the car starts fine. At this point I'm thinking I have a few problems going on in the dash and steering column.

Yes. I've also put a test light on the relay to make sure juice was coming in and going out when blinkers or flashers were on. I'm going to dig onto it more tomorrow with everyone's suggestions. If anything else comes to mind please let me know. Thanks for the help so far. BTW your Monte sounds great and I enjoyed watching your burn out.

Will do Scott but if one of those connectors are bad, would that control all the blinkers and flashers?