72jrfan88

Yes. Vacumn line looks good. Is there a way to tell if distributor moved.it seems pretty secure. And as far as a throttle kicker...is that the small cylinder object on drivers side of carb with a brown plug with wire attached..it seems like it can go in and out but not disconnect?

Thanks mark. Yes the flap definetly closes when setting the choke..I had a harf time getting it to fully warm up at first because it kept dying but today I got it to warm a bit. It just seems like its idiling so low.usually that engine compartment is bouncing the windshield washer resvoir.now its so quiet. The flap did open during this.I will have to check for parts that may of fell off. Maybe I will try taking some pictures of all the main components tomorrow. Thanks again

Update. After a overnight sit I attempted to start and it usually goes into fast idle ...but for the past couple days it just starts right up at a low idle and will stumble out unless you keep trying to start it and work the gas pedal. A little white smoke when idling and idles a bit rough. Still yet to take it for a drive. I recently got a new thermostat and radiator and they overfilled coolant..it dumped a lot out overflow and is really low now inside radiator..not sure if this could be a factor

Thanks for the reply. Yes. It is the original distributor still..even the spark plugs are original I believe. Ac remy plugs with the green spiral pattern. I got this car from a 70 yr old lady. Alot of maitenance records but none involving items above. Since 1984 only 10 k miles were put on it and it has 62k orig miles. It sat a lot so I'm sure I have alot of work to do. I'm just north of milwaukee border in menomonee falls. If it ran properly I could probably even meet you somewhere. Today I had to baby the throttle with my foot to get it to warm up without stalling but I didn't take it out. I did some idle mixture screw adjustments during this process and seemed it was the only way to keep it from stalling. I'm curious on where that ground wire goes in my pic. Even after I shut it down to restart it the crank sounded much different then normal..quiter crank but almost like it was laboring but still started everytime. No black smoke, no smoke at all. Just a very rich smelling fuel that burn the eyes once idling rough. Thanks for your help. If your not to far I could definately arrange a meet or something if I get it runinng good enough. Take care eric

I tried to check for this. But today I'm having a hard time even getting it to keep running. Strong smell of gas and idles real low and engine shakes before it cuts out. Almost wonder what a flooding condition may be like.I really have to crank it much longwr to grt it to fire up. Before it cut out the carb made a small popping noise spurted some gas and smoked a tiny bit

Ok thanks for the input....the fuel filter was just done last month unless it was installed wrong would that cause this? Also I added a couple more pics of a couple parts that look like the should be hooked up..one looks like a solenoid with spots for hoses with none connected..another is a bavy blue type ground wire haning freely by my voltage area..front driver side near washer resevoir and canister. Could this cause anything? http://s754.photobucket.com/albums/xx188...zpseb9b8e17.jpg

Hello All. Recently I just finished fixing a rear hung parking brake where my right wheel was locked up. Finally got it unstuck and went for a ride the last couple days. Not sure if its coincidence or if I messed something up when fixing the rear parking brakes. After I warm the car out it runs great for about a 10 minute drive around town. Then all of a sudden usually after I either stop at a red light or slow down for one the engine begins missing to the point I cant even accelerate. If im going slow enough, it will actually stall out. It only stalled as I was pulling back into my garage. During the ride I had to coast the car because if I hit the gas it would begin to actually jerk,or bog terribly, almost feeling the car bounce in the front.It seems weird for it to run so great for about 10 minutes and then have this happen two days in a row, after a similar drive. Before my emergency brake fix, i never experienced this until now. At first i thought the brake could still be hung up, but its definately not as the car rolls freely and my e brake pedal is back up to its normal spot. Its a hard condition to explain, but the best way is pushing on the gas and actually slowing you down, slight sputters but no smoke.But running just great 10 minutes prior!Is there any real basic areas to check,(like vacumn ect.) I want to take it for a ride again this morning but i dont want to harm the engine. For info it is a 1972 350 4 brl Rochester Quadrajet manufactured by Carter. Thanks in advance

Great news! That pb blaster after a 24 hour soak loosened the lines so much I was just able to pull on line right by the backplate...I released so much tention it popped the pedal back in its normal spot canceling the light on dash! I took it for a ride before pulling on the cables i was getting hung up a bit when using parking brake. I thinkiit heated things up so I barely had to pull on the lines! I'm new to this but I've already learned a lot by owning this car. I think its time for a pb blaster testomonial! Thx again Eric

Hello. Some good news. I sprayed the rear line right where the braided line meets the rubber sheath before backplate liberally with pb blaster. Then put car in nuetral not running and did a slow push forward once I felt resistance I stopped and pushed it backwards from hood then the next time I went forward it released.i then started the car and let it roll forward and there was no hesitation at all nothing was hung up. I didn't really trust going far just yet.I just continued to drive forward and backward in my driveway. As a test I put the parking brake back on and tried to release it. I was met again with resistance but hardly any at all and its free again and should be untill i test it again.I definately know I didn't fix it completly but glad to know I can drive it to the shop if need be. I can tell Its not fixed because my pedal still won't hold in the all the way up position therefore the warning light is still on because I am not hitting the little plunger with pedal housing.I felt the drums and they werent hot at all during these testsit seems to engage the e brake you really have to put it to the floor deep in this car so something still isn't right..but still feeling somewhat happy. Thanks again everyone! Eric

Ok thanks guys for the advice. Does cutting that guarantee it to unseize. Sorry for all the questions guys.I'm new to this and brakes aren't my specialty.I thought that by cutting any of the steel brake lines under the car that I would lose my normal brakes as well. But that must be run on a whole different set of lines. The lines run down both sides almost following the path of the frame and cross floor pans before going to rear wheels. Do i have to cut both?I just want to make sure I know where and what to cut. It seems the braided lines turn eventually go into a thicker housing and then into drums.Maybe tomorrow I can add some pics just to be sure

I defintely agree..I'm not looking for other issues but when I pushed the parking brake down another part flew off and I can't find it..I just thought if maybe the pedal was assembled with that part I could try it again..right now nothing is even pulling the cables to attempt it to disengage..I can get pedal toreturn by pulling release handle and lifting the pedal up. I just can't get it to stay there

I will attach som e pics...it seems like my pedal lever itself isn't working properly.could this be why http://s754.photobucket.com/albums/xx188/microwave3

Ok. I'm assuming that would just affect the rear brakes..but fronts would still operate like normal?

Yikes...I bet its rusted on.I tried grabbing the brake lines but I feel no slack..there is a clam that seperates the two brake lines by the tranny..this clamp seems to be gunked up..I'd sure hate to have it towed out of my garage but I bet I will have to now..the regular brakes worked fine when I reversed the car back in garage and stopped..it just feels like the passenger side wheel drags when going forward..is there anything that can be sprayed on back of drum or lines to break it free.or is it all internal at this point? Thanks again

Hello All, Recently I used my parking brake after i put the car on ramps for a oil change for safety purposes. It worked properly but after i released it, the rear end is still locked up and engaged. I checked all the lines which seem fine. The actual pedal mechanism under dash however doesnt seem to go in the off position and just floats loosely. I noticed there was a little retainer clip which popped off(where the brake line is held) and I cant seem to find it.Is there a way to move the brake line manually for the time being? Right now the brake line is most likely in its highest spot and i cant get it to move down towards the floorboard at all? As of now i have the line unlatched at the firewall/parking brake pedal until I can get it hooked properly. Any suggestions or know what this problem could be? Any input would be greatly appreciated. take care, Eric