Clever Idiot

Hopefully I didn't trash mine when I took it apart ten years ago! 🤣

Thanks! I thought that was the horizontal one on the engine side, that mounts high near the cowl? I'm looking for the one on the inside between the steering column and fuse block. Shown here (link should jump to 6:03)

Hi all, I've tried searching and no luck (here or otherwise). I'm looking for the vertical tube that screws to the firewall, next to the fuse block. It's meant to retain the wiring harness. Does anyone know what it's called or who may carry it?

Are these the ones? https://www.speed-engineering.com/ls-longtube-headers-1-3-4-a-body-f-body-swap-conversion-ls1-ls2-ls3-ls6.html

Yep, originally a 350 2bbl Rochester with A/C. Top bracket has 4 bolt holes; I had my original blasted and powdercoated as well as the core support. I feel like I'm going crazy. Top driver side showing how shallow the top bracket is Showing alignment: Bottom driver side: Top passenger side, fits perfectly: Bottom passenger side, also fits perfectly:

I've got the F-body pan on the way, based on Blackhawk's install of using that with the Trans-Dapt plates. I have BMR 2" drop springs and front suspension, so I wanted as shallow of a pan as I could get away with to try an avoid ground clearance issues. Good to know the G-body stuff works on ours too, though. Thanks!

Update. I got the big-block radiator pads (link) and they're much closer to the Griffin. The small block ones just required way too much trimming. These only required a little. Untouched next to radiator: Untouched next to trimmed (small pieces are what was removed): But now I have a different issue: the core supports (and top retainer) are way too small for the pads. I think I'm going to have to do some cutting and welding to extend them. Were the radiator core supports different for big blocks than small blocks? Passenger side pads fit no problem, but driver side would require so much trimming as to completely cut off one side of them.

Ok, so I looked at the instructions, and they don't specify Camaro there, either - they just say LS1. They specify that their test car was a '72 LeMans. I must have heard 'Camaro' when talking to them on the phone about the mounts and asking which pan they used for testing.

Vince, did you fab up some down pipes from the manifolds or were you able to buy some that fit?

Paul, I think they said ‘Camaro’ LS1 pan, so the F-body pan. I think I saw that on their site somewhere; I’ll see if I can verify. Edit: looks like that’s not specified on their site. May have been in the instructions. I can check later.

From the pics on their site and this video, the frame-side mounts line up with the rear of the crossmember - on a Chevelle or other A-bodies. According to that vid the notch they cut out of their mount was to allow for notching the frame for a low mount A/C. So I don't think it's that they welded it wrong, I think it's just wrong for Montes. When orienting the UMI mounts the way they are for the Chevelle, and how they show on their site, the bolt holes don't all line up with our frame holes. As for their plates, they have their own ears that bolt to their frame mounts. Using the factory frame mounts with their plates would eliminate all bushings, since the Monte stock mounts have the bushing on the motor side, and the UMI mounts have the bushing on the frame side.

At least, not for now. I ordered the UMI LSX motor mounts designed for A-bodies, because they specifically list the Monte Carlo. A lot of members had been happy with their suspension stuff, so I went browsing their site and saw the LS motor mounts. I thought I remembered a member saying they'd used them in an LS swap but now I think I was just getting fuzzy in the head. So I got the motor mounts. They look great. Greasable poly bushings, quality welds and hardware, sturdy plates and great powder coating. When I called to order, they were super helpful and friendly. I told them what I was putting in (LS3 into Monte), and I think they said they hadn't known many of those with their mounts. I told them I'd be happy to give them feedback. Their mounts were designed to fit the LS block with an LS1 oil pan, with no frame modifications (unless you have a low-mount A/C). But unfortunately, it looks like they were engineered for a Chevelle or another A-body, and our Montes just got thrown into the list of applications. As Cody (Blackhawk) has said, our motor mounts are flipped 180 degrees from the other A-body mounts. I've tried every possible configuration, and the best I can do is the UMI mounts installed 180 degrees different than their design. According to their site, the zerk fitting is supposed to face down, with the notch on the passenger side coinciding with the divot in the front cross member (same location). There are three bolt holes in the passenger mount and four in the driver mount. I'm going to call them, let them know the story, and what I'd like to do is work with them to get their mounts working for our Montes. I know most go for the Dirty Dingo plates and stock mounts if they want adjustable plates, so it would be nice if there were even more options out there. I mean, to my mind all they really need to do is have a slightly different shaped plate with a bolt pattern, because to me it looks like the positioning is already dialed in. But, I'd be happy to be a test car for them. If they're not really interested in doing that, then I'll just use a different system. As for the current UMI mounts, I'll post my results and pics for information for others, and update this thread as necessary. With the zerk facing down, the passenger mount only lines up with two frame holes, and the driver with three holes. But the first way I tried (before seeing Cody's information about the mounts being flipped) had the passenger side line up with all three of its holes, but still only had the driver's mount lining up with three frame holes out of the four in the bracket. It also would move the engine very far forward. The UMI plates on the LS block have about 1" of adjustment front to back. According to their site, 3/4" rearward and 1/4" forward. Luckily, I still have my factory mounts, and I got them blasted and powder coated at the same time as the frame. As far as I know, this is how they're supposed to look. It's the only way all holes line up with holes in the frame, so if this is wrong then I'm dumber than I like to think. Finally, here's an album with a couple more pictures than I have here, so you can see more angles if you're so inclined. Album link

Fantastic. I appreciate the help. I've been crawling ls1tech too, but it's a bit of a jungle to navigate. I was looking at the Dirty Dingo adjustable plates for flexibility, but those Trans Dapt plates (and Summit mounts vs Energy Suspension) are a heck of a price difference. From your pics it looks like you're totally fine with pan clearance at the frame. Any steering linkage clearance issues? Is this the 'new' version LS1 pan you mean? From what I can tell it's the F-body pan. Figured I'd go this route with the pickup, windage tray, etc listed in that link.

Well Cody, I gave the mounts another crack tonight. Decided to do some measuring before struggling with bolting them down, so I could see if they should be flipped like you were saying. Turns out these mounts only install one way - the passenger side is different than the driver's side. And while the passenger side has only 3 holes, the driver's side has 4 but only lines up with 3 on the Monte. Looks like I'm going to need to get a different oil pan, too - I was hoping I wouldn't because the UMI mounts said they work with the LS1 pan, and I didn't realize how much variation there is between the LS1 and LS3 pans. Rookie mistake. I still have my factory chassis-side motor mounts, though. So I'm wondering if different mounts would mean being able to keep the same oil pan and be cheaper overall. Then I could probably just return the UMI mounts. I saw you used Trans Dapt plates and Summit mounts - do you have part numbers for those, and which oil pan you have on yours? Oh, and as far as firewall clearance, looks like it's going to have a good 5-6" of clearance at the back with these mounts. So I may go with a different oil pan anyway.

Paul, Yep - I sold some organs on the black market and I got the LS3/4L65E Connect and Cruise package. It has manifolds on it but I’m not sure which car they’re for (or even if there’s a difference between vehicles for the stock LS3 manifolds). I like the way the headers would look, but like you said: PRICEY. It’s got all the power I want out of the box for now, so I’m just focused on getting it in and getting it running.

Yep! I am aaallll about that! Guess I’ll find out in March. Hope it won’t end up being a show stopper.

Will the stock iron logs have clearance issues with the Monte? If I can save money by not getting headers, I'd rather do that. My Camaro has the LS3 and makes plenty with those stock manifolds, so I figure why drop the money if I don't have to.

Thanks, everyone! Looks like mine has some original fenders. It's a '70 btw.

I’ll be dropping it in about mid March. I’ll let you know how it goes and what I had to do to get it to work!

I have this kit, and I was putting on the hood/fender rubber bumpers last night. I see locations cut in the fenders and hood for 6 locations but the kit only has 4 pieces. Which is correct or better?

Received my UMI motor mounts for the LS swap today! Very excited. And a little annoyed now (not the product's fault). Maybe it's just because it's late and I'm brain fried, but is it possible to mount the frame side of the mounts without taking off the lower A-arms? I tried a few tricks I could think of and only succeeded in dropping washers into the frame that I had to fish out with a magnetic wand.

Thanks! Can't take credit for the work, though. I didn't want to learn to paint on my Monte, so I bit the very pricey bullet. The metal work will probably be more expensive than the clips, unless you're talented enough to do it yourself. I went with how I wanted it to look and found the money. Oh, a tip: for side markers, I ended up using 1997 BMW 7-series side markers. Rectangular shape, designed to be flush mounted, and have a light as well as a reflector. Every other rectangular side marker I could find was a reflector only.

Yeah, the ones I currently have are from NPD (C-1270-101P) and they're a perfect for my stock small block radiator. Had to trim to get the driver's side pads into the core and upper retainer, but that's it. To trim those for the Griffin looks like I'll have to cut out almost a 1/4" from the saddle. I'm thinking big block radiator pads (PTP-7-1712-BL on Summit) might work with less trimming because they're showing an inner dimension of 3.48". I'm hoping that with the properly trimmed pads it won't sit up so high, but if it does I'm thinking I'll need to cut the lower radiator support and re-weld it lower down.

Hey folks, Just got a Griffin for an LS conversion. Seems a hair tall, and I'm not sure what to do about radiator pads. All the ones I've been able to find seem to have a curved cut for the stock-style radiator tanks, and this is a definite rectangle. I know plenty have used Griffins or other aftermarket aluminum radiators, so I'm hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction for how to get it in there, and save me some headaches.

It all comes down to taste. My overall preference is slightly modified, but only really noticeable to someone who knows the car. I had my lower trim and wheel moldings shaved, left the roof rails. There are a lot of holes to fill if you shave it - about one every foot, plus the marker lights. The stock lights are a goofy shape that got covered by trim to give it a rectangular appearance. https://imgur.com/V1r8lw1 https://imgur.com/Qojh4f5 https://imgur.com/3OqiDZt https://imgur.com/f0VaTZc https://imgur.com/AnriMYz https://imgur.com/J1yXoqb