GriffsMonte
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Everything posted by GriffsMonte
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the intake is eddy 2101 spread bore withe the eddy 2732 under the 1406. rock, the back is plugged with the brake booster. i was thinking of trying to use the eddy 2696 and see if that works.
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yes both created the same condition
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well this is already the second one i've had
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thats what i was thinking, its a eddy 1406 straight out of the box. How would i stop them from opening so fast ? or how do i change the accelerator pump ?
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Sam, Mike, it also only does the popping if you slam on the gas past half pedal if you gradually get it up to speed it wont pop
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Mike, i'm sure the gauge should be right its a russell liquid filled, it read the same cold and when the car warmed up, I did a compression test 1,3,5,7,2,and 4 got rained out so i ahve to wait to do the other 2 but the other 6 were all between 120 and 130 so im gonna guess no bad valve. Sam, i haven't popped off the valve covers yet to see if any of them are not moving as much as the others, As far as the plug wires go i had a q jet on it when i first started this project that dumped a lot of fuel turning the headers red. they are 8mm comp wires would that be enough heat to damage them ?
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My inline fuel filter also gets half empty a couple minutes after i turn the car off ? is that normal ?
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I have a eddy 1406, with a stock mechanical fuel pump, just put a fuel pressure gauge on it last night it read about 12 psi when the started to open and i heard the popping coincide with that. can too much fuel cause the popping through the carb ? there are no flames just the popping sound with every rotation. I have correctly set timing changed the header gaskets because i was told it was a exhaust leak and had it checked for a vacuum leak which came up negative.
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Yeah some people show know honesty when it comes to selling a ride, but i got mine from somebody who wasn't a car guy anyway. all he wanted was a nice sound guess he didnt care to much about the materials.
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Not to sure yet, i have to pull the headers off Thursday, But i put a Q-jet on before i had the popping problem and it was stuck at WOT so it was just dumping fuel and the headers did star to get red, we turned it off and it backfired so loud the neighbors thought we were having target practice. so i'm guessing that might have created the problem.
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Hey guys i finally got it down to the shop, apparently its a exhaust leak where the headers meet the engine and everywhere else on the crappy exhaust system the guy before me had put on the car.
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ok, thanks or the help guys i cant get to it today but ill let you know what it is for sure hopefully tomorrow
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Sam, would it even start and idle/ drive good at low rpm if it was 180 out ? Jason i have to go get a starting light today hopefully.
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where should the notch in my balancer be at ?
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The dizzy was also changed but i used the same cap and rotor button. Is it possible for the rotor button to be put on backwards ? the timing on the dizzy is at tdc (with engine off) and the harmonic balancer has a notch in the metal that is right at the 0.
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I only had a 2 barrel on it but it ran like it came brand new off the lot.
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Hey 7tone, I have check the wires already they are all in the right order. After researching the site for a few weeks ive done that and have also swapped the carb on it thinking it was a leak at the back of the carb and the manifold, but no luck
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Hey guys this is my first post i could really use some help, I bought my first classic this year (72 Monte Carlo) i'm only 23 so i don't have 30+ years of knowledge to pull from. I have a small block 350 fully original to my knowledge. I recently installed a edelbrock 2101 intake and a 1406 carb. the car also has headers. After getting it running i realized i have little to no power after about half throttle, and it also pops through the carb sounds like it happens with every rotation. It does this in park and under a load in drive but only at what i think are high rpm. (no tach). Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
