Jason72
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Posts posted by Jason72
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Good to hear. I am thinking if putting it in my 94 vette over the winter...
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Mike, How did this turn out? I tried to pm you but it says you can not receive any new messages? Jason
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I would suspect lifter bores...
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Thanks for the replies guys.
The compressor mounting is not my issue, I have a serp set up (see pics)
I am after the header fitting in near the a/c box. I have a pretty good amount of space there now but I guess it all depends how the tubes run...
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David, Do you have any pics of the header on the right side near the fire wall? I saw specs on a header that the longest distance out from the flange was 5 inches.( I cant find it now) But anyway, I think I can get 5 inches in there with a slight mod to the a/c box. Thanks. Jason
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I am having trouble finding a set of 1 3/4 inch long tube headers for my 72 with a small block. The car has a/c that I am not against modifying the a/c box to make them fit. I was told by the Summit tech guys that any header for a 1972 Chevelle will fit. Is this true? Thanks in advance.
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Thanks again guys!!
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New best!! Thanks Guys!! (I'm 4545)
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How were the pressures?? If the pump can't make pressure or there is an internal leak the modulator isn't going to do anything.
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Today I ordered a Glasstek flat hood and trunk lid.
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I second what Mike said...
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Update: at the track last night, it was racing, no testing. Let me tell you, the red light on the tree is the brightest thing you will ever see in your life if it comes on in the first round at your first race...
During time runs, I took your advise Mike, (thanks again) and pulled off 3 consistent 12.04 runs at 114 mph. Would have liked to move the window switch down another 100-200 but didn't want to change things on the car. I did take .050 off of my 60 ft. The air was terrible- 70 and VERY humid.
I did go home with all straight sheet metal and no broken parts. Also got a lot of attention for a small block moving that heavy car along so well. Didn't get the 11 slip but I will next time. I'm so close.
Thanks again guy for your advise and help!!!
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First thing measure at the frame then see what you have. Depending on the frame and how ridged it is and having one spring with less pressure ( the one you cut) that will change the weight on the 3 others. Then see where you are at. Also, make sure you move the car front and back a few feet to get the suspension back to its natural position after you had It jacked up. Always make your measurements to a common point on the frame rail. Once the frame sits right, then go to the body ( body mounts and such) don't forget after every change move the car before you measure
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All ready. See if I can get to the track next weekend!!!
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That's no problem. I will gladly take a look
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How much oil is it using and when do you see the smoke?
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I look forward to hearing your progress. What car is it going in?
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No, Up in Walnutport. Light and Medium Service. I work on anything with wheels but have a soft spot for Chevys. Right now I have a Ford box truck, Hummer, Dodge Cummins and a GMC 3500 in the shop. And of course, my '72...
Just get a hold of me for any help... I will do my best.
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Yes, I worked with Vince. Learned a lot from him. I left there and went to Diebert GMC and then Bergey's. I now have my own shop. Busy as hell.
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Maybe I will do a burn out down Vera Cruz This weekend LOL...
No problem. Always glad to help.
Jason
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Mike, For the timing cover, if the block is not drilled and tapped for all of the bolts for the old style timing cover, don't use it, it will leak oil. I have in the past reused the plastic front covers with no problems. If you do replace it use a napa # 6005343. They are $30.00 and come with a plug for the crank sensor. (I always put a layer of silicone over it on the inside). The valve covers will fit fine with the roller rockers. I do not know if the pin will clear the cover as I always pressed it in.
Make sure you read the instructions for the cooling system on that engine. If they used a vortec block you have to run a water pump by pass hose or it will over heat. Timing cover bolt -
I worked at Scott for a while when I was in High school. I saw your name on here a while ago and knew I heard it before. Then when I saw the pic of the car I was sure of it. A few cruises ago I saw your car at Macungie but couldn't find you...
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Mike, The only thing is that the cam is designed for the engine that has the distributor behind the water pump so you need to press in the timing gear locate pin so it clears your front cover.
I am just off of Emmaus Ave at the bottom of South Mt. I was at a the last 2 cruises, only had the car at the last one. I think I may know you tho. Didn't you work at Scott Chevy back in the 90s and wasn't that maroon 72 owned by Kurt in the body shop???
Jason
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I had it. It works pretty well. I had a 2500 stall converter behind it. nice rumble at idle and very good torque. pulled to 6k rpm and very streetable. not a race car but a good driver.
Weird vacuum gauge reading
in Engine Tech
Posted
Yes, that is a valve train issue