cbolt
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Posts posted by cbolt
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i cannot speak for your exact application, but I have a Champion 4 core radiator in my car and love it. I did have a leak issue after about 6 years of reliable service but the radiators are lifetime warrantee and the company was quick to replace it when it started leaking (from the drain petcock)
I want to say they are a bit thicker than the original radiator but it really was an easy install on my sbc '72.
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Fuse block not an option?
Should be a blade terminal marked IGN but if you you can splice a male end of a blade terminal to the end of the wire you wish to hook to an ignition source and then slide that right next to the end of pretty much any fuse that is on a switched ignition source.
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I have to say I only use distilled water in my cooling system, even during a flush, because there are no contaminents to possibly get lodged in the small passages of the radiator fins and eventually cause issues. I used to do the garden hose trick all the time however without any problems but afterwards a thorough drain, reflush with distilled water, and fill with the correct mix is my hard and fast rule.
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I guess I should have mentioned that I changed to the 373 gears when I installed my overdrive trans so the highway mileage isn't terrible, but it isn't where I want to be either, especially nowadays.
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So you are saying that the lights and gauges themselves share a power source, and the lights aren't on when the car is off? That is quite odd. Maybe there is something else going on. If you have a meter you can check for power at the gauges with the ignition off. It may not be the gauges draining your battery and the issue just coincidentally started after you installed the gauges.
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the car is quite responsive, and I like the feel on the throttle. That being said I think I would have been happier with the 355 gears for the gas mileage. I drive mine on the interstate frequently and the lower rpm's would have been more to my taste than the launch from a stop light.
So depending on what you want from your car you may or may not like the 373's and locker. OBTW I went with the Auburn because it was the only unit that wasnt on backorder at the time. But it has been solid and quiet since installation.
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I have 3.73's and an Auburn gear locker in my 10 bolt, yes
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are you pushing on the dash pad or the plastic dash part near the gauges to make the buzzing stop?
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Makes me think you should have asked more for it.
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Yes you can use led's in your cluster. I have them in mine and they work great. Search for dimmable led's. I got mine from superbrightleds.com
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Step one, tap the starter with a hammer lightly, and try again.
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I have been using that site for years DragCat, and it is mostly up to date and accurate.
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What he said, adjust the front of the hinge up a little at a time until the hood aligns in the back correctly. I have done this successfully without an assistant, you just have to be careful to snug the bolts before testing the alignment by closing the hood, but it would help if you had an extra helper or two.
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Nice. Now that is pretty cool indeed.
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Tech help is likely online.
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That would be a fun one to pull out and fix up just to hear everyone complain about the opera windows. Totally worth the time and effort, at least in my opinion.
Also, I would love to know what is sitting beside it, some kind of mopar. Can anyone ID that car just from that tail light? Coronet perhaps?
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Its been my experience that regardless of which compressor you choose, get a new one vs. reman. I went through a reman compressor every year until I purchased a new one, which lasted 7 years and finally failed at the eastern meet in a loud, dramatic manner.
Bottom line, find a new one and buy it. I have an A10 aluminum compressor so I cannot actually answer the question about which brand lasts longer.
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Not only can the mighty '72 drive while in park but it can do all that without spilling a drop of coffee!
That video shows the greatness of the 1972 Monte.
Wait, was there a song too? Hmmm... missed it.
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Correct you are Steve. Spoilers by Randy. Once you said it I remembered.
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Welcome aboard! Tampa, huh? Right down the road from me.... sort of. Maybe Ill see you in Old Town or Daytona sometime?
Great looking ride. What seats are those? They look pretty comfortable indeed.
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I prefer just loosening the ball joint nut then hitting it hard with a hammer until the threaded part breaks free from the a arm. That method has never let me down and I dont have to clean grease from a pickle fork.
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Sammy, I made a backing plate out of some aluminum I had lying around. You will likely have to do the same.
Or you could just JB weld it on, your call.
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I can probably provide the item number if you need it. Also, they build them when you order it so allow about 6-8 weeks. That is how long mine took.
UHI36900CH is the item number
I ordered it on 6-21 and it shipped on 8-13
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I forgot to mention, UHaul offered to create and install a hitch, free of charge, if I was willing to drive the car to their AZ factory and leave it for a couple of days.
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Radiator Fitment
in Engine Tech
Posted
it did okay. I have had it in so long I don't recall any real issues and I would remember if it was a pain to install. I can run out and take a pic if you would like to see. I do have one of those show plates installed so it is difficult to get a complete pic of the whole top of the radiator but you will be able to see the sides where the rubber and radiator meet.