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cbolt

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Posts posted by cbolt

  1. Here is my hitch i just ordered and installed direct from UHaul. You can order one from their site, just put in Chevelle since the frames are identical in the rear. 

     

    I think I also have that smaller hitch someone posted earlier in the thread if anyone wants it. I have no use for it any longer

    Hitch.jpg

    • Like 4
  2. Velcro. I did that with my transmission controller. Its not in the picture but it is velcro'd to the side of my gauge pod out of sight. You can always do something like that with your oil pressure gauge since the adhesive from the velcro will clean off when you decide you dont like it any more. Used to use the old velco method in my patrol car for all kinds of things. 

    20141112_154227.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. This hose fits between the plenum box and the passenger dash vent next to the glove box. I didnt have to replace the lap vent hoses. I guess the answer is yes to your question Carl. I did my car and another members car with the same hose, you just have to trim it to length. 

  4. No, the other end of the shaft has a different style keying. That shaft is a single piece that features the steering wheel on one end and the spline in the pic at the other. I have a GM training manual that covers the steering columns. Its raining buckets outside and i have to move the car out to access the book, but ill get some pics of the parts breakdown of the steering column for you posted when i can access the cabinet full of car repair books again. 

  5. I had an alignment shop center my tie rods because my car did turn further one way than the other, causing the brake line to be stressed even. After the tie rods were pretty much the same total length, centered in their adjustment the car is in perfect alignment however the steering wheel is still not centered when the wheels are pointed straight ahead. What i am saying is centering the tie rods may or may not correct the steering wheel issue. 

     

    Been there, done that, didnt work. Ill get on that pic later today when i am in the garage and post it up. 

  6. I finally got around to checking the column lower shaft spline for a key and it has an indent that, from what i recall, has a bolt that fits in the indent and pinches a collar type fitting to the lower shaft spline area. It has been a few years since i changed my column shift to a floor shift and that is when i swapped columns and had to monkey with all that stuff. At this point the best i can guess is that the new steering box is keyed differently which makes the steering wheel misaligned when its all put back together. If anyone has a way of moving the entire steering wheel approximately 10 degrees i would love to hear it. 

     

     

    I can attach a pic if anyone wants to see what i mean about the lower spline being keyed with a groove that a bolt goes through, let me know. 

    • Like 1
  7. Your steering column issues sound exactly like mine after I replaced my steering box with a quick ratio version. Everything is splined with a keyed spline.. the pitman arm to steering box gear, the rag joints have two different sized bolts, the steering shaft has flat spots for the set screws, and the steering wheel spline is also keyed. What I cannot recall is whether or not the base of the column spline is also keyed, but as I type this I remember I have a spare steering column in my garage, which I will we take a peek at. Anyway, I have been told time and time again that an alignment will cure the steering wheel off center problem however having had 2 alignments that hasn't panned out for me, and my steering wheel is also skewed to the right of center pretty significantly. I will check my spare column spline and get back to you but if you find a solution to this problem please let me know. I feel like a Beverly Hillbilly driving along with a cockeyed steering wheel. 

  8. 11 hours ago, cny first gen 71 said:

    The hitch looks great Jim, did you give up on the genny cream ale? To tough to find down there? Nixon bumper sticker is cool too.

    All they sell down here is the na genny beer, no genny cream. 

    Dennis, I drink the light version too, its just as tasty. Not gm original but you can order direct from UHaul and they will make you a hitch. It took 8 weeks to get it

  9. I have the same problem with my padded dash I purchased several years ago. No amount of clips by the windshield will make that sit correctly near the radio I am sorry to say. I have monkeyed with it a dozen times without success. 

  10. Could be just the engine harness that needs immediate replacement. If you dont get those wires routed properly to the starter you will get melted wires and a car wont start. If I had to guess that is the most likely place for fried wires and because of the age of the car mechanic shops arent likely to have a vendor to supply the parts. 

     

    But yeah, you will need more info from the shop. Have them show you what is fried. Exact replacement harnesses are available and the easiest one to swap is the engine harness. 

  11. Here is a link to a thread that discusses a lot about removing the gauge pod without taking the entire dash out. I am a bit busy to post step by step instructions at this time as I have family stuff to deal with but if you still need a hand shoot me a pm and i will walk you though the process when the dust finally settles. 

    • Like 1
  12. I've done that work several times on the circuit board and recommend you replace any gauges while you are in there if needed. The main thing is to take your time and be very careful. A lot of those 1/4" fasteners are screwed into the plastic housing and the plastic is likely to be brittle from age. Not sure about the wisdom behind a amp to volt gauge swap, but someone will chime in soon I bet. 

     

    You can remove the cluster without removing the entire dash if you are careful. What I do is lower the steering column and allow the steering wheel to rest of the drivers seat, undo all the fasteners, speedo cable, clock feed, and printed circuit electrical connector. There are seven 7/16" bolts holding the dash to the car and with those removed you should be able to move the whole thing towards the rear of the vehicle far enough to pop the cluster out. I have posted instructions about this in the past I think, but if you need me to provide step by step instructions let me know. It is an intimidating job but not difficult. As luck would have it I am doing that exact thing today to remove my ashtray since that stupid thing simply will not come out without removing the diverter box or moving the dash forward enough to pull it out the top. 

    • Like 2
  13. Member Last Name:  Seyboldt

    Member First Name:  James 

    Club Website Screen Name: cbolt

    Name of others in your party (please include ages of kids: Linda

    Total number in your Party: 2

    City: Palm Coast

    State: Florida

    Arrival Date: unk

    Departure Date: unk

    Year of your Monte: 1972

    Color: Blue/white

    Vinyl Top Yes/No: no
    Vinyl Top Color: 

    Class Registration: Modified

    Hotel: club

    Room Type Qn/Qn, King q/q

    Email Address: cbolt982002 at yahoo

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