cbolt
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Posts posted by cbolt
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I purchased a generic black recirc tank from Jegs and mounted it adjacent to the hood latch behind the grill. Functional and out of sight. I would try to get a pic but my car has a show panel installed and I don't really want to disassemble it right now.
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I had similar issues with a brand new printed circuit. I wound up just working the bulb socket on and off a few times to get them all to work. It was like a film of some sort had built up during storage or shipment on the printed circuit. Probably result of slight corrosion. If it is really bad you can take a pencil eraser to the copper tabs and on the contact area of the printed circuit to make the contact better. That is the least abrasive way to get the connections clean and establish a good connection.
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I have the usa 6 and am overall displeased. It's okay, but I expected more. The fit was perfect, it came with the knobs pre-adjusted for our dashes. The backlight is blinding at night and I found it necessary to add an amp to get the sound where I wanted it. The cd player works good but the cd sound has lower volume, less internal amplification I suspect, than the radio or aux input. Worst part is the blinding backlighting I suppose....
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I used the original crossmember, just shifted it back to the next set of holes in the frame. Fit just fine. I think the folks at BO meant that your 3.55's are the lowest recommended. My 86 SS came stock with a 200-R4 and 3.73's. The performance is great as far as acceleration goes, the car is peppy. I would like more mpg's and that is where a lock-up trans and 3.55's would have been great.
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I had an issue with the transmission failing within 500 miles of installation and he only covered a portion of the repair. He blamed me for his transmission failing if you can believe that one. Art stated that because I had a column shift there was normally a lot of "slop" in the linkage causing the rod to break connecting the valve body to the linkage (internal to the transmission). I have the feeling if I would have had a console he would have told me the cable had streched, causing the slop and subsequent transmission failure but cannot say for sure. After I got it repaired the fella that did the work, a local transmission shop owner, told me that the 2-1 downshift was not working at all and he could repair that for around $185. I declined.
When I contacted Art Carr about the problems I was having he became very agitated.... really, really agitated. He threatened to not honor the warrantee at all even. I may have stirred the pot when I explained I rigged aircraft flight control cables for a living and transmission linkage adjustment was very simple by comparison. I would think a business would do what they could to keep a customer happy and resolve any issues, especially with a part ordered via the internet. Not old Art. I will tell everyone and anyone what a poor product I received and what poor customer service I got from his company every chance I get. Especially interesting was the time I called and Art was not available I spoke with one of his employees. His employee admitted he had seen the valve body control rod break in the past. Art, on the other hand, denied he had every had a valve body control rod break so the problem must have been with my installation. Huh. Andreas I hope you don't have issues with your transmission before the warrantee expires and have to deal with that guy. When my transmission fails, and I pretty much think it will fail (I have been told the pumps are the weak spot), I will be looking elsewheres for the replacement.
I guess you could say I had both technical and business issues with Cal Trans so I spread the word about my experiences.
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I have the 200-R4 and it is a dramatic improvement over the 350 as far as gas mileage and launch goes. I have the 3.73 gears and wish I had the 3.55's like you do. Additionally my trans in non-lockup which I also regret, I get just under 20mpg with a mild 350. I suppose now would be the time to mention my trans is from California Transmission (as seen on Overhaulin') and if I was going to do it again I would be purchasing a Bowtie Overdrive trans.
You are correct. The trans was very easy to install, all you have to do is move the crossmember back slightly, and easy to "tune" as far as shift points go.
Dang, I mostly griped about my trans... I really do like it. I just dislike Mr. Art Carr.
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Ordered a aluminum A/C compressor, a show panel from undercover innovations, a like new 72 grill, and registered for the 2013 Turkey Rod Run. Oh yeah, I also renewed my membership to FGMCC after a 8 year hiatus. Big day for the Monte today!
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Linda and I had a great time as well. Looking forward to seeing some of those pics. Hey Jared, isn't that a picture of your "pit crew" prior to the starter swap?
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My AC panel light is a BA9.
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I have no idea but I will see what happens with it.
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Just installed a brand new borgeson variable ratio steering box and after approximately 300 miles it developed a pretty significant leak at the lash adjustment locknut. Has anyone else ever experienced this problem before? My dilemna is that I really hate to have to remove the gearbox and send it back since it was mail order from Jegs and hope I can get some first hand advice on how to fix that leak myself with the gearbox still in the car. Thanks in advance.
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Installed a new steering box. I purchased the variable ratio Borgeson model. I cannot wait to take it for a test drive!
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I suppose I need to look into that.... I already have the amber bulbs.
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I went with the red tail lights based on the suggestion from the website. The red LED's I went with are the brightest ones that will work with our electrical systems. I tried the brightest ones in amber for the front and they were not compatible... they caused the turn signals to be inoperable.
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I wound up flipping the gasket upside down on my right side mirror and it fits nicely.
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I completed the LED swap for my entire dash with the superbright dimmable bulbs. They are not entirely dimmable as everyone has mentioned. they go from bright to somewhat dim to off. I want to give this disclaimer before passing judgement on them... my headlight switch has a short in it which causes the dome light to come on at different places while rotating it so I cannot say for certain one way or the other--due to the faulty rheostat. Before the switch started acting up I had only 4 LED's installed and they were completely dimmable throughout the range of the headlight rheostat, but even with that information one cannot entirely rule out the scenario where the LED's were going from on to off and the incandescents were working as advertised. Clear as mud for everyone?
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The resistor is bypassed in high speed mode so you are looking at either a relay or the switch. I recently had the same problem and a new relay fixed it. Having said that I also had a bad switch in the past and bought a relay, swapped it, no joy. Had to order the switch. Come to think of it I have also replaced my fusable link at some point in the past but it was a long time ago and I cannot recall the actual problem that lead me to change it. Dollars to doughnuts it will more than likely be the relay. You should be able to read the voltage in and out to determine if the issue is before the relay if you have a meter and want to save the $20 on the relay.
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I just installed the PMT Fabrication non-adjustable uppers and lowers. They seemed to be much less expensive than the other brands and I am very pleased with product quality, fit and finish. They also carry adjustable uppers.
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Took the dash apart and replaced the clock and the rest of the lights with the led's. Waiting on the new stereo to arrive
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Installed a set of boxed upper and lower rear control arms, sway bar, and 4 bilstein shocks. What an incredible difference in the ride and handling!
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I have been running the Flowtech Afterburner SB headers for the past 8 years with no problems. The collector does not hang lower than the deep, cast aluminum trans pan I am running. They have a clean appearance and provide ample space to reach the spark plugs.
Summit link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/big-49100flt/overview/
I have had the Flowtech Afterburners since 2002 and have no issues with them. Clearance is good for anything you need to do and I just had them ceramic coated to match my intake so they look pretty good.
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Well we all know the 71 front end is the best
You just cant beat the rectangular turn signals and that purty grill. Yep, the only thing purtier is the '72 front end!
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Ordered the new stereo and rear control arm package... arms, braces, sway bar, and the rest of the LED's to complete the dash. WOOT!!!
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Has anyone here ordered from superbrightled's? The reviews of their LED's and customer service were not great. Since it is such a pain to get to all of the lights I'm replacing, I don't want them to die after a few months.
I just installed two different superbrightled's on opposite ends of my dash to see what color I wanted. I ordered a 15 SMD wedge base tower in warm white and one in cool white. I have to say the warm white looks identical to the incandescent bulbs in the rest of the dash while the cool white looks more modern for lack of a better term. Yes, they are dimmable and I am pleased with the speed in which I received my order. I also replaced all 4 tail lights with LED's and they are not significantly brighter but they are brighter just the same. I have no idea about the longevity yet but will post when and if they die. To be honest I do not do much after dark driving so I will have to just do periodic checks of my dash lighting. I figured before I spent the money on all LED's for my dash I would give them a beta test, decide on the color, etc. So far I have swapped the dome light, under hood light, tail lights and two dash lights. I am actually very pleased so far and will no doubt order a glove box light and a few more warm white (P/N WLED-WWHP15-TAC) tomorrow.
Show me that junk in your trunk
in Interior Tech
Posted
Is that a full size spare under the Kia Sportage cover?