cbolt
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Posts posted by cbolt
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I used an aftermarket trunk lid. The fit was very good and the only complaint I had was the key cylinder indentation is larger than the Monte Carlo one. (I suppose it fits Chevelle and MC). When you put the MC badge on the indent is larger so it shows around the emblem, if that makes sense to you. The trunk lid is otherwise perfect however if you are doing a show car I would see if I could find a good condition factory one.
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My wipers work fine, they just need to be "push started" when they are unused for an extended period. The little ball the wiper driveshaft rides on has to make good electrical contact to complete the circuit, if that makes sense. The washers work great, when they work. If I let it sit unused I have to prime the pump first, which I have to say is a complete pain in the neck. All that being said, my car rarely, if ever, sees rain (She is so spoiled!) so I have to fiddle with the wipers when I do need them.
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I agree with Scott. The first and easiest thing to do instead of just throwing darts at what you suspect is wrong is taking the battery out and testing it. Your local auto parts place should perform this service for free. It continues to run after it is started which indicates the alternator is providing the necessary voltage. My experience has been that the external regulator is the weakest link in the chain so that would be my next test if the battery is good. Don't expect to get a good voltage regulator right out of the box. I went through about 4 of them before I gave up and changed to internally regulated, with no issues since. Good luck!
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I will be converting mine early next year, after the holidays. I have all the hardware for a chevelle console, just have to convert to the burlwood. I have to add the extra harness from the dash to the console and finally add a tilt column. It is a bit pricey but I have been collecting the parts slowly in preparation for the actual conversion.
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I just purchased two from.... OPGI... and they are a good product and a nice fit. Mine originals were in better shape than yours but still had the pitting and wear.
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More than likely, yes. To be sure check this section for past posts on how to identify the different rear ends. The 8.2 and 8.5's are identified by the pinion nut size and the housing "tabs". There are good pictures in recent posts.
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Jim , I cant say how the 200 is built internally , I havent been inside one . So it could be possible that something is broke from the linkage .
The column shift detent (in the column) may be slightly different. Also the original crosshaft will not move the tranny shift valve the correct amount of travel . The overdrive crosshaft has the down rod moved farther off center (to rotate more degrees) . The stock crosshaft should have only prevented you from putting the trans into first if adjusted to have P . You should have had P,R,N,OD,3,2 . IF you adjusted to get 1st then you may not have had P .
If you have local U-Pullit or such pick up a crosshaft for an 80s Caprice/Impala with a 700R4 or a P/U with a 700R4. I think either will fit the Monte . I think lots of G body came with the 200 4r . I believe that shaft might work for you as well .
Have you pulled the pan ? Look at the shift input shaft and see if the nut holding the detent is tight (inside the trans ). It may be loose and the detent plate is slipping on the shaft double D mount .This is my thoughts based on how the 700 is built.
You might see somthing simple for the price of a gasket and oil . Nothing to loose if the warranty is crap already .
Sorry to hear you having issues . I hope its a simple fix .
I hope it is a simple fix as well. I adjusted it to P, since I doubt I will use 1, at least until I install my console and shifter. The place where I purchased the trans insisted I did something wrong in the installation and I had to have the car taken to a shop to confirm either their mistake or mine. The owner of the trans shop was a total jerk on the phone, talking over me and not able to control himself once I mentioned it was under warantee. Thanks for the info on the cross shaft (I assume you are describing the one that rotates at the frame and in the trans bracket). I will look into that next week, when I have time.
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If you shift from P to Odr (car off) then get underneath the car and seperate the shift rod from the trans shift bracket/lever.Then shift the lever manually from 1st to Odr.The shift rod should slip into the trans shift bracket easily.If not that is your problem.
The 200R is actually stronger then a 700 when built properly.Many GN guys are going 9s with them.Only certain shops are capable of building them properly.One of the best is RPM in Anderson IN.Great guys and excellent back up.
Good luck.
What would it indicate if the shaft and bracket do not line up?
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Long story short.. I bought a trans online from a reputable trans place. After approx. 500 miles I lost reverse and every gear, including park, is forward. (It goes into park but if you hit the gas the car lurches forward anyway) Called said trans place on the phone and they informed me because it is a column shift car I have the shifter set up wrong, causing a clip to either break or come off on the valve body and they will not honor my warantee. When I put the linkage together I moved their shift lever to the park position and attached my linkage with the column lever in park. They acknowledge there is a detent inside the transmission when it gets to the park position (I couldn't move it further than park by hand from underneath). Has anyone ever heard of this before? If so, is it possible I actually had an adjustment to make to prevent this failure? (Yes, that is the short version)
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I am a die hard Steele rubber products customer. They have some excellent products and even better customer support. When I did my seals I screwed up some of those plastic tabs that come built into the seals. Even though they do not sell the plastic pieces individually, their customer service rep took the time to research them for me, walk down to the factory and grab a dozen for me and ship them out for shipping only. That pretty much sold me for future rubber requirements. Plus I hear they will custom produce any seal you need but have never tried that out yet. Softseal products are also good and I have used them in the past. They are readily available from most of the suppliers. However, I am placing my recommendation on Steele products based on my experience with them.
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Just my .02... a '70 Monte will make any hub caps or rally wheels look good. You cannot go wrong, really.
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Installed the shorty plugs yesterday but due to rain, only drove it around the block. Todays forecast is low 70's and dry so I am thinking a nice cruise around Crescent Lake....
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Changed the u-joints, intake and valve cover gaskets and went for a drive. It looks like rain so it was a short drive but the car runs so smooth with the new u-joints and no more leaks! I also ordered shorty spark plugs from JEGS, should be here in time for a weekend project and nice long drive depending on that silly hurricane......
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I think it is because you are trying to overhaul an open differential and I have never heard of that. The posi units are rebuildable and I have a book detailing the process for both factory posi units and aftermarket units. Be sure to inspect the teeth closely on both the ring and pinion gears and be mindful of where the shims are when you take everything apart so you can put them back in the proper place. Good luck!
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836-83-1022-M is the part number for the Richmond Gear "mega kit" for the 8.2" 10 bolt from Jegs. It contains shims, bearings, seals and new bolts for the ring gear. Not sure what an "overhaul kit" contains but I would assume it would be new bearings, seals, and shims (Although why you would need shims if not installing a new differential is beyond me) I just went through the same thing as well, but upgraded to a limited slip differential.
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I know exactly how you feel. I started this project, trans and rear swap, back in August. I keep running into things that need replaced or just things I want to replace while I am in there. The "snowball" effect essentially. It may be worse for you as I think your driving season is going to end soon, compared with mine here in Florida. on the bright side, at least my car "sat out" the love-bug season.
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Awesome. Can't wait to hear all about it.
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I got the Auburn as well and Jegs upgraded me to the better of the two Auburn units offered because they screwed up my original order of the Eaton unit. Nice of them. I also got the Richmond 3.73 gears. When are you doing your differential upgrade?
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Perfect and thanks. I am working this weekend so won't get anything done anyway and you will probably be out checking everything out. I know I would be!
What posi unit did you get?
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Just wondering the exact placement of the door jam decal pictured as the icon for this section. I know it goes on the quarter panel, drivers side door jam but not the exact placement. I don't have the fisher body book that would tell me, so I figured someone here would know and help. Thanks.
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Let me start by saying I am in no means an expert on rear control arms but here are my thoughts: I don't know about quality but the boxed set looks more like standard equipment and they look more "sturdy". Not that I am planning on launching with 500 ft/lbs of torque or anything but was looking to keep as much of the stock appearance as possible and get the biggest bang for the buck. My opinion is that the tubular control arms are going to be sufficient for my particular application and the price is impossible to beat judging by everyones opinion of the quality so I am debating (still) which ones to order. I *want* the boxed control arms but at almost $90 difference I am still leaning towards the tubular, especially considering I am planning on ordering the whole package; uppers, lowers, braces, bushings, and the installation tool. I still have time to make my decision because my axles aren't scheduled to be delivered until tomorrow sometime and I have to manufacture an accelerator cable, dial in the new transmission and break in the rear gears. All that being said I would love to hear your thoughts once you get yours installed and a few miles on them.
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Did you get the tubular ones or the boxed ones? Also, did you get the braces and bushings too? Just had to ask. Mine aren't here yet. I was waffling on which set I wanted, tubular or boxed and the price of the tubular set was really hard to pass up.
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Has anyone had any luck swapping the upper and lower control arms with the rearend housing installed in the vehicle? I am planning on changing both upper and lower control arms along with the bushings and was hoping to leave the brakes alone. (Being lazy I suppose) I purchased the uppers and lowers from PMT along with the bushing installation tool and adjustable braces but will probably install the axles before I receive the control arms and figured if anyone has done that before it would be someone here. Do those bushings pop out pretty easy or not? Thanks in advance...
FENDERS ?
in Auto Body Repair
Posted
Doesn't Leo do fenders? Someone chime in here but I thought he did and my plans are to get both of mine from Leo when I do my paint and body again....