cbolt
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Posts posted by cbolt
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Link to the PMT kit please? Looking to do mine since the rearend is already out of the car...
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Removed the axles, differential, pinion and both pinion bearing races....
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Pressed the new bearings on the differential. Took the cover to be powder coated, silver with clear. Getting ready to remove the old differential this evening after a nap..... zzzzzzzz
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I would check the pinion nut anyway, just to be on the safe side.
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Oh, and yes, it is worth adding the gears and the posi unit to the 8.2. Super Chevy mag just did an article either this month or last which described the entire process, with photos, for the 10 bolt. People will tell you the 12 bolt is stronger so if you are thinking about, or making, high horsepower you may want to consider the 12 bolt. I have found lots of parts for the 8.2 10 bolt, including axles, and I am not planning to making any more than 400hp, ever.
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either check the pinion nut or the ring gear bolts.
8.2" has 1 1/8 pinion nut and 3/8 ring gear bolts with 9/16 heads.
8.5" has 1 1/4 pinion nut and 7/16 ring gear bolts with 3/4 heads.
Surest way to tell for sure. Doing mine this afternoon and had the exact same question so I would be sure to order the correct parts.
Just take the driveshaft off at the rear and pop a socket on the pinion nut.
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Well, since I have just come from Lowe's, Home Depot, Ace hardware, and NAPA and none of them have a ball stud it looks like a new cable after all.
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I'll check it today, thanks. (I guess LOL)
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Ahhh... you saw through my thinly veiled excuse to get the new cable. Hardware store, huh? I have never seen anything like that at a hardware store but have admittedly never looked. I will try that in the morning, thanks.
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Does anyone happen to know the length of the cable for the small block 4bbl? Last time I ordered one it was waaaaay too long so I had to make it work. Since it seems I need to change from the ball type end to the pin type end I want to maybe change to a supercoolhightechperformancepolishedfancy type and want to make sure I get the correct length. Thanks in advance
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Well, your thinking is good, but the trans is held in alignment by the bolts that hold it to the engine. The bolts have a bit of slop to them, and that's why there are those 2 big dowel pins to hold the trans in the right spot as the bolts get tightened. Once you start to loosen the bellhousing bolts the tail of the trans will drop, or the engine weight will cause the engine and trans to try to pivot apart, and that will cause a converter misalignment right away.
I'd keep the bellhousing bolts tight and try to solve the issue that way. There's no way to maintain a straight centerline between engine and trans otherwise.
I just finished doing exactly that, keeping the bellhousing bolts tight and just working with the converter and it is officially installed and straight. It just took a bit of working the converter back and forth until it properly seated and snugging it down a little at a time. I tightened the bolts that way to keep the correct alignment because the converter seated at all three points after a few times back and forth. Thanks to all who chimed in. I learned the hard way you cannot just crank them down and expect the converter to seat properly and I am not a person who likes to make mistakes more than once, especially when it comes to the Monte.
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Wallaby, the old converter came apart with no apparent problems.
This whole situation makes no sense to me, either. Way back when I changed the crankshaft everything lined up correctly. (Yes, I yanked the motor, put it on a stand, flipped it over and changed just the crankshaft and bearings) When I changed just the flexplate I had the issue with the converter of the TH350 not lining up and wound up stipping one of the converter threads. I have put about 3000 miles on the car since that time and when I pulled the transmission out last week the flexplate and converter were correctly aligned, flush even without the one bolt. Snugging the two pieces together using the bolts will more than likely just strip the new converter so I am not going to do that.
I have today and tomorrow off so I am going to loosen everything up without removing the trans and see if I can't get it to fit properly. I'm thinking the first part I need to tighten is the converter and then snug the trans housing and block together and then line up the crossmember with the trans mount. During this process I should be able to check the converter hub pilot/crankshaft area for any deformities or burrs I can feel and maybe put some kind of lubricant there to make it slide together correctly.
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Gonna try the loosen then tighten trick of Sams first but it seems as if I did that and it didn't help the last one. Admittedly I haven't tried it with the new part yet but sure will. The other set of flex plate holes are slightly indented the opposite way as the converter, but that will be my second try. I hate to think I may have to pop it back out again so that is my last option and one I hope not to have to use. Anybody have any other ideas I could try? Is there a loosen the entire transmission housing and tighten the converver first option? Just tossing ideas out there....
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I am in the middle of bolting the 2004r transmission in and ran into a snag, figured I would ask advice here. With the trans case bolted to the engine block and the crossmember just resting on the frame and the trans resting on the crossmember, the converter and flexplate only align in 2 of the three bolts. One of them is about 1/4" away from each other. I had the same issue with my 350 when I changed the flexplate and starter, tried to snug it down by torquing it and wound up stripping the converter. When I went to pull the transmission to replace it with the 2004r, I noticed all the holes were magically aligned, as if driving it, hitting bumps and whatnot helped to straighten everything out down there. Now the way I see it I have a few options. Option 1: Leave the bolt out, drive the car awhile, and go back and put it in once it magically aligns itself. Option 2: use a flat washer and make a shim to go between the converter and flexplate, torque everything down and run it that way. The drawback to that the shim will keep it from ever being aligned properly. Option 3: pull everything back loose and figure out why it isn't lined up correctly. Now I know the obvious choice would be 3, however I cannot get my head around the fact that the transmission is firmly bolted to the engine block and the converter and flexplate don't line up, only on one bolt, as if the flexplate is somehow warped. A warped flexplate seems to be contradictory to the self-alignment that happened while driving the car for a few thousand miles with the old transmission and the same alignment issue..... Any expert advice? Thanks in advance....
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Pushed it outside, and removed the transmission.....
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Did the same this morning, 1-1/8 pinion nut.
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Yea, that does seem like a lot of cam for the motor. My motor is very similiar minus the cam and roller set up. I used a Crane energizer series and bored the block .060 and ditched the dish tops for a set of flat tops (I have no idea what brand, bought them at the machine shop that did the block bore). Mine seems to take its time getting to about 40mph then takes off like it was shot out of a cannon. Oh, I also went with the Carter 625 cfm. (My goal was no Edelbrock parts when I built it)
I'll bet new gears will turn it into a fun car to drive.
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Mine is almost identical, but is a GCC I think and 135 2 with the two indentations at the 5 and 7 oclock positions.
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Sounds like some disassembly required to me in order to determine which one I have, correct?
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So, how does one tell the difference between the 8.2 and the 8.5? I would like to get all my parts ordered unless I have to physically take it apart to measure in which case I won't be able to drive it until the project is done.
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I am in the process of installing a 2004r in my car. It currently has the original 2.73 non-locking rear and I know I am going to make the swap to the 3.73's, maybe even an Eaton locking setup and new axles if I can afford it. What is everyones opinion on which route I should take, either swap the gears in the current 10 bolt or upgrade to a 12 bolt. Now before everyone says "12 BOLT!" (I know it's better than the 10 bolt) keep in mind that money is a factor as well as availability of an acceptable donor 12 bolt (I can't find a reasonably priced one anywhere). The car has right at 300hp and I have no plans to race it, simply improve my mph for trips and drive-ability so strength isn't a major issue. Also, will the 3.73's even fit? Thanks in advance.
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Yea, that sounds about right for parts which is why I had to ask
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That's me. I ordered the parts and had my mechanic install them.
I had it all changed and it was around $1100.00.
Was that the total price for the parts and the labor? I have ordered my 200-4R and am currently shopping for the best and most cost effective way to upgrade my 10 bolt to a 3.73 setup so all this is very interesting to me.
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Hey Steve, lets narrow it down a little further. When you say your gauge doesn't work, what do you mean? Is it stuck full, empty, erratic or what? You say you did the check for the gauge and as far as I know that is the only way to check a fuel gauge. Since you checked the gauge and changed the sender........
UMI upper and lower control arms
in Brakes and Suspension Tech
Posted
AWESOME! Ordering tonight....