cbolt
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Posts posted by cbolt
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Hippies
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I thought you were supposed to help your friend due to his limited resources?
If you decide to tackle the job, become a wizard, unlock the secrets of the big scary electronic transmission or whatever make sure you have a GOOD BOOK on them. Here is a DVD that is pretty darn detailed and easy to understand. http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/site/573683/product/12700R4
Takes all the wizardry and guesswork out of the job. If you want a real eye-opener, go down to your local transmission shop and talk to the techs for an hour. Suffice it to say it really doesn't take an MBA to overhaul a transmission. Lots of people are afraid to break into a transmission but will overhaul an engine without batting an eye. I stand by my statement that it is actually easier whether or not it is a 700r4 or even a front wheel drive model. The big secret is to make sure when you are removing parts from the case to place them in order of removal so you can reassemble it in reverse order. you would be surprised how simple this makes the job or how complex it gets if you don't. Whatever you and your friend decide, good luck. For what it's worth I don't think a converter replacement will cure what symptoms you described.
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as for rebuilding them... haha I doubt I can do that any time soon lol
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Actually it is easier than you might think. All you need are the proper tools, a CLEAN work area and a really good book to guide you. Rebuilding a transmission goes quicker than doing an engine. I think a lot of people are afraid to attempt a transmission rebuild, I know I was, but it is really pretty simple.
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Instead of guessing why not just get some advice ahead of any purchase from whatever machine shop you decide to use to do the block? They can tell you the overall condition of the cylinders, block and the rotating assemblies to help you make an informed decision as to what work would need to be done to your existing parts as far as how much to bore or if your crank needs to be ground as well as whether or not you need to replace any parts like the pistons, connecting rods, crank, etc. Assuming you are looking at a mild rebuild it would be a safe guess that you don't plan on making a ton of torque or horsepower but would like the peace of mind to be able to open it up from time to time without worrying about something breaking so if new parts are required pick something designed for your particular requirements and the people at either Summit or Jegs will be able to assist you over the phone. In other words you don't need domed racing pistons if you are planning on running pump gas and driving around town. That would be expensive overkill. One more thing you need to consider is matching any parts you buy to what you are trying to build. You want to choose an intake, cam, heads, carb, pistons that will work well together in your desired rpm and horsepower range. Again my suggestion would be to ask the people at either Jegs or Summit if you are uncertain when selecting these components. They have been very helpful in my experiences in both helping to select matched parts and keeping within a budget. Everyone has their favorite aftermarket companies and combinations so I will refrain from advising a particular brand for anything on your car, that is entirely up to your tastes. Whatever you decide to do remember to file away all those reciepts and document all the specs for future reference and have fun! I always have a blast selecting parts and building an engine.
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the problem is you can't compare leakdown rates with a compression gauge unless you are lucky enough to have one that doesn't 'hold' the peak reading.
Same results but I can do it on the road without a compressed air source. I have used a compression gauge this way several times in the past with 100% accuracy. Not to say that a leak down tester doesn't have it's uses but for kenny's problem I should be able to diagnose it quickly at the car show with minimal effort.
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Man.. there's a heck of an echo in here
The difference is no compressed air source requirement for the wet and dry compression test so I can run it on his car down in Old Town during the show if he is willing to remove the plugs.
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You can do the same test with a compression gauge and some motor oil. Run the cylinders, record the readings. Then pour a tablespoon of oil in the spark plug hole and look for a higher reading. Higher readings would indicate ring wear, no change indicates valve seats/seals.
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Kenny, are you going to be in Old Town on Saturday? If so, we can diagnose it there, no sweat. Want me to bring my compression gauge to check on your cylinders while we are at it? Let me know and I'll load up a few tools. You should be able to use the soap bubble trick to find leaks on a cold engine, no problem.
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Well, I took the linkage apart at the pivot point, cleaned it really good and reassembled it. Now I am just waiting for it to get cold again so I can see if it is working or not. It better be #$%&&*@#$ working!!! Hopefully this has got it but I have said that before.
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that's what I am heading out to look at now.
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Yea, I think there is something binding the linkage but only slightly and oxidation or small dirt build up could very well be the culprit. Carter says not to use lube in order to avoid any material sticking to the lubricant and causing this very issue (I suspect this issue anyway) The problem could be at the screw holding the cam because the rods themselves look clean even at the joints. I'm gonna pull it out into the sunshine and play with it this morning. I took pictures of my own to compare with the ones in this thread and it is clear that the cam isn't moving as far as it should. It really is a simple mechanism and I have never seen an issue with a fast idle cam before so you can imagine how frustrating it is. This is my second Carter afb (different vehicles) and it has run flawlessly for 9 years since I did the initial tuning. Guess I'm rusty at carb troubleshooting nowadays.
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those are great pictures! What is not happening with mine is in the third picture from the top. When I press my throttle the cam doesn't fal down into the position shown due to gravity, only down about as far as the position in the picture above it. According to Carter the linkages are designed to operate dry which to me says no WD-40 so that leaves me with the question how do I get the fast idle cam to move to the correct position when the engine is cold and the gas has been pressed?
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Wolf,
I have made the adjustments to both the choke by loosening the screws and turning the housing cover and to the cam detent area via the screw on the accelerator linkage and what appears to be happening is that when I press the accelerator (or grab the linkage and do it by hand) the fast idle rod and cam rotates slightly but not enough to pull it all the way to the fast idle setting. I can then move the fast idle cam to the proper setting manually and it doesn't seem to bind but it won't move fully to fast idle simply by pressing the gas to the floor, which it used to do. I can't see any obstructions or binding in the linkage and I know Carter says that the linkage is designed to operate dry so lubrication is out of the question. Still scratching my head. I am wondering if the choke adjustment housing has somehow tured 360 degrees, taking most of the tension off the spring and I need to adjust it one full turn back to its original setting.
Having said all that I would love some pictures of how to make adjustments. I may see something I hadn't thought of or you may know a few tricks I don't. I'm almost to the point of just getting a rebuild kit and starting from scratch. (after the mini-meet in old town, that is) I hate doing that because this is mostly just a minor inconvenience at this point, the car runs great after I get it started and warm.
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A tach isn't required for setting timing, just the light. You should look into the vacuum gage in order to make sure you have the proper mixture, check for vacuum leaks, watch the timing marks when accelerating to see what your total advance is, things like that. Your problem doesn't sound like a timing-only problem to me rather just a poorly tuned engine that was masked by the timing advance being set too high initially. If your timing is set correctly and advancing correctly you probably need to make adjustments elsewhere to smooth it out and make it run right. Good luck
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Right. The Carter isn't much different, using the choke spring tension to move the linkages to the fast setting and possibly gravity as the engine warms and the spring tension lessens. Suspecting a broken/won/dislodged spring I took the housing apart and everything seemed normal with the exeption of not having what I felt was proper spring tension on the cover. (You know, how it would move when loosened) Since it all looked normal I put it all back together and it seems like it will work now. I am going to test it by letting it sit for a few hours to cool and then checking it again. Could have been it just needed to be disassembled and reassembled but I won't be sure until I let it cool and test it again. Weird since it appears everything is clean in there.
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I'm looking for some ideas here. I have a Carter AFB that all of a sudden doesn't come up to fast idle when cold. The choke seems to be adjusted and working but the fast idle cam only moves slightly, just to the first indent on the adjustment and stops there. I have tried adjusting the choke with no luck. I can manually put the fast idle cam in the correct spot and the carb operates correctly however with a normal start (sitting behind the wheel and not lifting the hood) the fast idle is virtually inoperative. I have power to the electric choke and like I said the butterfly operates correctly, just not the fast idle cam. Without bending a rod as per the instructions is there any other things I can look at or check? Has anyone else encountered a similiar issue? I have a hard time believing that an adjustment rod has bent itself while installed in the car, in my garage, with the hood closed. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
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Thanks!!!
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Does anyone have a source for the seal that mounts to the rear of the hood? All I can find is the one that mounts to the firewall, not the hood itself.
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If you are referring to the rubber seals that face forward on the c pillar someone makes them because I replaced mine when I painted my car. That was 4 years ago, though, but I think they came with a paint gasket set from either cars inc or the parts place. I'm leaning towards the parts place because I used them more than anyone else for parts.
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Do you own an assembly manual? It sounds as if you will need that at a minimum. cheaper than a 1K basket case car, that's for sure!
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David,
I left a message on Leo's answering machine, waiting for a return call. Thanks for the help.
Jim
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I got mine at National Parts Depot. The same as the Chevelle. It's in the catalog.Part # C-9786-105A $38.95 Air Door complete with hinge.
The catalog advertises this as the door for under the dash, not in the cowl. Are they interchangeable? Also, the part that is broken is not a part of the door so much as bolted to the vacuum pod. I am scratching my head over here.
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Does anyone know where I can find the link between the cowl actuator and the actual door for my vacuum pod? In the assembly manual it is part number 7, "link" and mine is broken in half with the half that goes to the cowl fresh air door missing. Should I just take it to an A/C place or try to find this part? Anyone else run into this problem? Thanks in advance.
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I don't think stock converters come with a stall RPM. The one I have is basically a stock converter, but manufactured by TCI. Like I said, I am totally satisfied.
Jim
Dashboard and Steering Wheel Restoration
in Restorers - Archive
Posted
I have seen the plastic bezel repopped as well.