cbolt
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Posts posted by cbolt
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Does anyone know where I can find the link between the cowl actuator and the actual door for my vacuum pod? In the assembly manual it is part number 7, "link" and mine is broken in half with the half that goes to the cowl fresh air door missing. Should I just take it to an A/C place or try to find this part? Anyone else run into this problem? Thanks in advance.
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I don't think stock converters come with a stall RPM. The one I have is basically a stock converter, but manufactured by TCI. Like I said, I am totally satisfied.
Jim
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I am totally satisfied with my TCI converter. Stall will depend on what cam you decide to go with. I have an Energizer cam, with a Sizzler converter, works like a dream with the big bore, AFB, Weiand intake and headers.
Jim
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It sounds like a bad shift modulator. Assuming the fluid is good to go, that will also cause that. Before shelling out the money for a whole trans, try that. Just my .02
Jim
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I can answer the first question. Mine has 3 bolts holding it in as well. I think they used that steering unit for several different models that year, sort of a universal fit.
Jim
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Still need that help.
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Wow. It's hard to imagine the message board without George's input.
Having never met him, I will nevertheless miss him. My deepest condolences to his family. Jim
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Then I guess I know what I am going to have to buy! With the stainless piece, just go to diynet.com and look for the classic car restoration part. They had one show that had them restoring stainless. They used fine sandpaper, all the way down to about 6000 grit, and then using the polishing compounds on the polishing wheel, and the stainless came out looking brand new. That was after they removed dents and minor imperfections, too! I was amazed. I bet there is a link, or you could ask them for instructions. I was planning on doing all my moulding that way, but I also thought it was all stainless. Good luck!
Jim
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I thought the side moulding was stainless? If so, I saw a really good methood of restoring the stainless on the DIY show that does car restoration. I was planning on doing mine that way, but if it is indeed anodized, I guess that plan is out, huh?
Jim
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I'm getting ready to shift from a column shift to a console, and have everything I need, I think, but don't quite know how the brackets are installed and the cable is routed. Does anyone have pics or just an explaination of how the brackets sit physically in the car and how the cable attaches to the shift lever. Thanks.
Jim
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So how about being one of those snot-nosed ensigns with a cool car? Nothing wrong with that!
Jim
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Hey there Middie, I am currently attached to Helicopter Antisubmarine Squadron Seven onboard Naval Air Station, Jacksonville Fl. Let me ask you this, would it be less prone to be vandalized or stolen if you had the cars body work done and the paint on it? Not likely, it would be more prone to be messed with. Most bases, if not ALL bases, have long-term storage lots for people in your predicament. I sure wouldn't "loan" it to my brother, nothing ever good comes from that. If you are anxious to look cool, well think how good it will feel if you wait and do it right, and don't rush it. See? I'm training you already! BTW, here is a quote for you to take with you for your "long haul" career; "Don't worry, be happy. A good CPO will save your *** every time."
Jim
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Hey Middie, how bad is the body? Is it really gonna kill you to drive it for a bit once you get the mechanical side ready until you can save up money? In my over 20 year naval career, I have never seen the DOD make anyone sell their car when they got to the boat. Surely you aren't afraid of what your officer buddies will say? There is a Lt in my squadron that ownes the biggest pile of rust 70-something caddy you have ever seen, and frequently leaves it in the E-7 and up parking for extended periods of time. We complain, but nobody takes his commission away for driving it. A few of the JO's borrow it from time to time, if they need a beater or a car that will hold 10 people. In other words, keep the car, work on it when you can, drive it while the driving is good, and when you finally get your commission and go to your first duty station, put it in storage while underway and work on it when you are home. Chalk up your ordeal with the mechanic as lessons learned, go get your car, and move on. By the way, are you going to change your screen name when you get commissioned?
Jim
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Tow that thing a few hundred miles south here to Fla, and between me and Grease, we will get it running for ya!
Jim
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If you just want brands thrown out there, I fully believe in TCI converters. Had one on an old camaro race car and it took everything we threw at it. Believe it was the 2000 stall model, can't remember what little name they gave it, like streetfighter or whatever..... but it was a TCI product. I don't trust any of the Summit brand stuff, but can't give you a good reason why.
Jim
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Hey Landshark, I saw on that American Muscle car that Louis Chevrolet was a French race car driver that the company was named after, but not necessarily the founder. Now, ask me who actually founded it, and I have no clue, but if you believe everything you see on TV, that is the story I got.
Jim
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Priming is the key to the pumps. You should be able to hear it working with the engine off when you push the wash button. If it is making the popping noise, the pump is running but like any fluid pump, it won't work with air when it loses the prime. I think a wearing pump diaphram or loose or degraded hoses will cause the pump to lose it's prime, and make it difficult to use. they sell repair kits for the washer pumps that include a new diaphram and cap for it if your pump is electrically good. I have used them before on other GM products I have owned with no problems.
Jim
A/C Vacuum pod help
in Restorers - Archive
Posted
The catalog advertises this as the door for under the dash, not in the cowl. Are they interchangeable? Also, the part that is broken is not a part of the door so much as bolted to the vacuum pod. I am scratching my head over here.