cbolt
-
Posts
847 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
21
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by cbolt
-
-
Rob jinxed me by telling me not to get the hard luck award before i headed out, plain and simple.
Now he is just being dramatic. I guess we know who to give the Oscar to, if we handed those out that is. 🏆
-
2
-
6
-
-
I saw the title and thought you guys were crazy, taking the Montes to a swamp. Maybe do some mud bogging? Lift kits, mudder tires, that kind of thing. Glad I read it wrong.
-
1
-
1
-
-
slowly dropping down can be an indication that it just has air in the system and needs to be bled. You should be able to find bleeding procedures on the world wide web somewhere. Cheaper than a new jack, right?
-
2
-
-
Best source of info like that is to go to your local cruise nights and talk to car guys. I can pretty much say for certain that someone in the group knows a place to get your car worked on. Car guys always seem to help each other out.
-
2
-
-
I repaired my own before which was no more than replacing seals (internal and external) and bleeding the ram, but I had help from a hydraulic tech who lived next door at the time. Back then repair parts were actually a thing. (1985 or so)
-
3
-
-
Im seeing a trend with the red interiors. 🤔
Looks great Jared!
-
Could be the pan gasket or the speedo cable. Most places can do that. Might as well have the filter changed and the fluid flushed while you are at it. Standard service stuff. I'm surprised anyone turned that job down frankly.
-
They don't look anything like they do in the Publix.
-
1
-
2
-
-
In my hot Florida garage the Valvoline red grease would turn way more thin over time than the Timken grease has. I had to put my grease gun in a bag to keep it from leaking all over the work bench with a red cartridge loaded. That's why I switched to the Timken grease. To be fair, I used the Valvoline for the last 30 years or so without an issue.
-
I used that style clamp on my other car and found them to be way inferior to the originals. The bolt is poor quality and several of them broke before they were tight enough to seal the hose. I am sure they were made in China and not ordered from OPGI or the Parts Place, but as most aftermarket stuff comes from a single source and distributed to the various vendors........
Personally, I would never use that style clamp unless it was NOS.
-
2
-
-
Maybe I am missing something, but the way I understand clutch fan operation is that when the temp is such that the fan is unnecessary, the fan kind of disconnects from the drive assembly, but when it gets hot the fan engages and operates all the time to draw air through the radiator. Now it seems the problem with Jeff's car is when its sitting it heats up so a non clutch fan, one that operates all the time, would be working at low speed, high speed, and while sitting. So not having a clutch fan in this instance wouldn't, or shouldn't, change the fan effect while idling. Unless the existing fan is really far away from the shroud opening it should be drawing air all the time, which should help cool the engine at idle. Hey, I may be wrong, but that's how I understand this issue he is having. I suppose a lame 4 blade fan could also be an issue, but we don't know what fan is on the car currently, other than its a non clutch variety.
For these reasons I still have to ask if the system has air in it, which would be pretty common after a rebuild and reinstall of an engine.
Jeff, take your cold vehicle and put it somewhere where the radiator is elevated, say a swale or maybe on ramps. Start the car and let it idle with the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens and you can see water moving inside the radiator, noting any bubbles or air pockets you may see. At that point the air should have worked itself out and you can replace the cap. Then take your car out and let it idle a bit and see if the engine still heats up to 200+. Once you have done that we can see what is happening and go from there.
The clutch fan is a great idea and a good thing to have on your car, but in this instance I don't believe that is your reason for overheating at idle.
-
1
-
1
-
-
someone asked if the air is out of the system buy I dont see where you answered that. Did you "burp" it when you first got it running?
-
2
-
-
Great ideas. Thanks!
-
Getting ready to permanently mount my e-fan relay and fuse and was wondering where others have placed their aftermarket relay's and other electrical add on things where they don't look like a shade tree mechanic installed them. You know, the fella with three remaining teeth and always wears coveralls without a t-shirt? 🤓
Kidding aside, I was thinking of slapping them on the inner fender well but to me it would look like, well, like an eyesore in the middle of all that plastic. I don't really want to drill holes in the fender lip or the firewall, but may go that route if I cannot figure something else out that looks halfway decent. Right now I am drawing a complete blank.
Thanks in advance and as always, if you have pics that would help immensely.
-
The first thing I noticed after installing the 160 stat was that when moving along down the road the engine will actually cool down below 180, which is the stat I replaced. Used to be the engine would get to 180 and never drop below that mark, regardless of ambient temp or operation conditions. I concluded that the 180 stat prevents the engine from cooling any further because it should begin to close at 180. My fairly modified engine never really ran hotter than about 205-210 before, even in the summer, but it was something that would keep my attention on long, hot trips..... worrying about the temp gauge. (especially in heavy traffic) Worry = extra stress.
I figure the engine is going to run about like that anyway, but it gives me peace of mind to know the cooling process will start sooner rather than later. Summer is right around the corner and hey... I live in Florida.
-
Mark, I looked at the reviews and Q&A which confirmed the part would fit a sbc, which it did just fine.
-
1
-
-
I used this water neck and a 160 degree thermostat. Works great so far and no leaks since I used the plumbers tape on both plugs.
I love the 160 degree thermostat.
-
1
-
-
or he could wear it around his neck from a big old gold chain.
-
3
-
-
I love the F-14 Tomcat decal too!
-
2
-
-
17 hours ago, DragCat said:
I'd never release the discount price 🤣 Of course maybe that's why I'm a bachelor 🤣
Yeah, THAT'S why
🤣
-
1
-
-
My thermostat housing doesn't have a port, which is unfortunate because that would be too easy.
-
1
-
-
Im just going to use the passenger side head for the electric fan. It should only kick on when the a/c is on and the engine temp is 200 degrees as per the painless fan relay instructions. I really don't want the electric fan running when I am blasting down the interstate at 80 mph as I have a feeling the fan would disrupt the normal flow of air through the radiator. It seems to do that on my other car, which runs an electric fan constantly above 185 degrees. At speeds above 70 the engine temp keeps creeping up to well over 200 degrees, (upwards of 210+, which is as far as I dared push it) which it didn't do prior to the electric fan installation.
The benefit of the passenger side head is that it is easily accessible compared to the drivers side, where the A/C compressor and brackets are in the way.
I was just asking in hopes that folks who know would reassure me that I wasn't being stupid, putting a second temp sender in my engine. Sometimes I get what I think are good ideas that turn out to be anything but.
-
4
-
-
Has anyone used the cylinder head temp sending port on the passenger side head? I am looking to wire in an electric fan and instead of removing the existing sender, which operates the gauge, I was thinking of just using the temp sending port on the opposite cylinder head for the electric fan operation and was looking for thoughts from some engine gurus. I don't see why I cannot do it, but maybe someone has experience in this.
For information, they are the sbc Edelbrock heads and manifold and there isn't room to mount the temp sender in the manifold due to the location of the upper radiator hose and alternator bracket.
-
That is actually fairly common, the starter wiring harness being a mess, due to its location and heat. If anyone worked on the starter or that general area and were not attentive to where the wires are supposed to be routed they will at best case become brittle, at worst case melt the insulation and short out. You should be able to get it sorted fairly easily, but know that there are several sources for a new harness if it comes to it.
The Eastern Meet is here post pictures and comments here
in FGMCC Annual Eastern Meet
Posted
We are missing you too Larry!