cbolt
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Posts posted by cbolt
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Pro tip: just re-use the existing hose. It should clean up fairly well. It doesn't restrict flow and an ounce of prevention........
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Man I love the pic of the white SS from my coffee mug! Thanks for posting Sammy
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Nobody mentioned the original Rudolph with that silly elf who wants to be a dentist. I'm going with that one. 🦷
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What is this "off season" you speak of?
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I have those same ones in the pic and do not like them. I likely just do not have them adjusted correctly but you can hardly hear them. If I had my way I would move the speakers back in the dash where they are more useful and less conspicuous.
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Can someone pin this thread so the info is available, maybe move to the tech archive section?
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See I just get a laugh out of it. All the experts out there. For some reason, and maybe I am weird this way, but I find "know-it-alls" funny, especially in that context. It can even be fun to encourage them to keep on with the nonsense, play like you believe them and ask for more info. Yep, I am evil that way.
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16 hours ago, Scott S. said:
The ones I get a chuckle out of are these guys at car gatherings that come with their "restored" classics, yet have never touched a wrench in their lives.
And proceed to pick out the flaws (or alterations) of cars that the owners have "lovingly" rebuilt with their own hands. LOL
I like to stand back and listen to an "expert" point out stuff to another person about my car as well. You know, two guys talking and the one providing all kinds of false info about my car and the way the car should be. Just proves that half the folks you know are below average and always makes me smile.
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I normally do not contribute to threads like this but wanted to chime in this time. To me, you rebuild an engine (or a trans) and you either restore or build a car. I have never heard anyone say they "restored" an engine nor have I heard anyone say they have "rebuilt" a car. They have either built the car or restored it and each has a different meaning. In my mind you can restore a car and rebuild the engine for that car without changing the overall meaning of restoring the car. As a matter of fact if someone tells me their car has been restored it almost goes without saying the engine has also been rebuilt. Clear as mud yet?
Oh, and you can also "build" an engine and/or trans. (with all the goodies) Almost forgot about that context in car guy lingo.
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SEM makes good products for dying those black interior parts the proper color. Like Dennis said, proper prep is the key
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Good question Joe!
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It should still be a nice daily driver with that cam, your quadrajet and the performer intake. Your gains will come from the trans and gear ratio
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Based on the information you gave us I would venture to guess you have some kind of air leak in the cowl area, allowing the cold outside air come in to the area behind the dash. It sounds like your heater system is working as advertised. Try taking your car outside on a dark night and putting a bright light inside the car under the dash, say on the trans hump. If there are any major leaks you will see light coming thru the firewall or in the wiper transmission area of the cowl. Hey, easy place to start and no disassembly required.
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You don't mention it, but was it cold air coming out? I assume that if it was 40 degrees outside you likely had your selector set to warm, is that correct? If all that is correct and the car was warmed up to proper operating temp you may have a faulty cowl vacuum actuator, or just no vacuum to your system so the air diverter doors are not operating properly. If I recall the diverter door that is connected to the heat/cold lever is manually actuated with a cable that goes from the selector lever to the top of the heater box assembly.
The selector switch on AC cars looks like an octopus behind the faceplate with all the various vacuum hoses but you can see it all pretty good if you pop the dash pad off and remove that center vent. Or you can fumble around with an inspection mirror and leave the vent in place.
Regardless it sounds like an interesting problem but certainly nothing too very difficult.
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Bag and tag all your parts. I go through a few boxes of ziplock baggies whenever I am doing a project. Just mark it all with a sharpie and you will be good to go. Learned that in the Navy. We would tie the bags of hardware right on the panel or part you were working on so anyone could walk up and pick up right where you left off.
Easy peasy
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Most parts places sell a plate that has the overdrive indicator. You just have to look around. I got mine from either shiftworks or opgi, or maybe the parts place?
Shiftworks - Console, SHIFT INDICATOR, 1968-70 Chevelle/El Camino/Monte, 200 R4/700 R4 @ OPGI.com
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Glad you got it sorted.
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I did my 350-200r4 swap a few years ago and dont recall needing to change the yoke out. I popped the driveshaft right back in. That's the beauty of the 200r4, it has the same dimensions as the stock th350 and why I chose it over the 700r4
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i replaced my speedo.
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I do have a vacuum gauge and have used it on it. It was reading around 12hg and slowly wanders +/- 2 tops. Working solo is tough when trying to diagnose stuff like this. Ill get it eventually but it will take some time. Other stuff has the priority right now
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13 hours ago, ripleydale said:
One way to prove a vacuum leak exists is to cup your hand over the carb when it's running, not choking it off, leaving enough air to run. If the idle goes up, there's a leak somewhere.
Sounds like a solid plan, but at this time I cannot keep it running long enough to do that.
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The problem I ran into with the kit was the flange on the axle housing was slightly bent from my car being in a drivers side collision at some point in its life. When I installed the caliper bracket on that side the flange being bent prevented the caliper from running true on the disc. I had to cut and reweld the flange to make it all square. Truth be told the car has never stopped as well as it should have after installing the kit but i suspect the issue is in the master cylinder, perhaps the rod being improperly adjusted. I have plans to look into that before this years EM but I have been dealing with it since 2016. It stops okay, but not like a 4 wheel disc car should
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Old Air Products is a great company and will work with you to get you what you need. On top of that they stand by their products. Highly recommended.
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I used a kit by The Right Stuff, which is also available from Summit. Are you going to use the Summit kit?
motor rebuild
in General 70-72 Monte Carlo Forum
Posted
my stock 350 ran perfectly smooth. Nice idle, no noise, etc. and when I broke it down I found a cracked head and a hole in the #1 piston.
Moral of the story is you never know what is inside until you take the top off of it... (think Forrest Gump)