cbolt
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Posts posted by cbolt
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lol Scott. We don't get cold weather.
I removed the idle mixture screws and shot some carb cleaner in each side but that didn't make a difference. Paul, I checked the timing and it is spot on, so that isn't it.
What is baffling to me is the idle started misbehaving mid-drive, on my way over to a friends house to finish hooking up the electric fan. So it ran fine for about 15 minutes and suddenly it started idling rough. To me, that is something that is broken and not a fuel issue but I really cannot count anything out. My next step is to drain the fuel tank and put all new, fresh fuel in it to see what happens. Because space is very limited in my garage it takes a contortionist to perform tasks like removing spark plugs as the passenger side is very close to the work bench, and I have to duck under cabinets just to raise the hood. Forget about opening the passenger door. Ugh. The cramped quarters make working on anything more time consuming than it should be, thus the slow and methodical progress. Anyway, after the fuel change I guess the compression test will be next, or maybe pop the carb off and give it a good cleaning. Fun!
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Rob, its only at idle and I dont have an anti-dieseling solenoid. I agree about it acting like a vacuum leak but I have not been able to find a leak in any of the hoses. I capped them all to test it but no change.
I did the plugs one at a time, pulled them, inspected them, cleaned them, and reinstalled them. I may try pulling a plug wire at a time, that's a good idea.
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No raw fuel smell. Fuel filter is clean as a whistle and the plugs aren't fouled either. Ugh.
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Not stock. I have the aluminum Edelbrock heads, intake, cam, Carter AFB, .060 flat top pistons, etc, etc.....
Vacuum lines was my first thought as well but they all seem okay so today I am moving on to the plugs and fuel filter as those were my thoughts as well.
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Went for a drive today and after 10 miles or so the car started having difficulty idling, really running rough at idle to the point I had to keep a foot on the gas at red lights to prevent it from stalling. Got home and did a quick physical inspection which revealed nothing out of the ordinary. I then tweaked the mixture screws (Carter AFB) and idle speed screw to get the car to run a bit better, but it is still off. Vacuum check has it around 13 psi and it wanders a bit an inch or so either way, but not a regular type of wandering which would be a valve, ring, or other such issue.
My plan is to add some fuel additive (My last fuel stop was on my way home from the eastern meet... I have been busy and not had time to enjoy the car), check and replace the fuel filter, inspect the spark plugs, and reseal the vacuum riser on the back of the manifold that provides the a/c canister with vacuum. My question is... what else do I need to check/inspect/replace? My thoughts are the low vacuum is indicative of a leak, maybe just a small one, but the low vacuum indication may also be a result of the car just running rough due to bad gas.
Any input from you engine gurus would be welcome.
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Thats definitely John Patterson's car. I recognize the power tour decals from the rear window.
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The only knock I have on the Morris belts is the way they come down across the headrest and over my neck. During a long trip I have to constantly adjust the belt to get if off my neck and because my headrests are dyed vinyl I am constantly re-dying the area where the shoulder belt rubs them.
I wouldn't go back to lap only belts though as I like the safety a 3 point belt system provides. I am looking into some kind of clip to keep the belt off my neck. Bottom line is I would still highly recommend the Morris seat belts.
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I think my next step would be to pop the dash pad off and do a quick visual inspection of the printed circuit and area around the headlight switch with an inspection mirror. Hey, you likely need to pop the pad off anyway if you are replacing the H/L switch, so a visual inspection may reveal the condition of your printed circuit, or a portion of it anyway. I guess if you have dash speakers you may not be able to see much, however with an inspection mirror you should be able to get a glimpse of the area.
Being as the H/L switch is the most likely culprit I think I would plan to remove it. Bear in mind I have seen a fair share of bad printed circuits in our cars. Broken runs, peeling laminate, crossed runs, etc.
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Start with the fuses before you go ripping in to anything. A quick check with a test light will show you if a fuse is bad.
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I used a black recirc tank and mounted it behind the grill but in front of the radiator on the support for the hood latch rod, dead center of the car. With my show plate installed you cannot see its even there.
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20 hours ago, LS65Speed said:
Unfortunately if the clock works right during the test you come away w/o knowing what the issue is within the car.
But a good place to start would most likely be in the gas gauge/headlight switch issue. The idea of checking the clock straight from a battery source is a great idea but regardless of the result I would dig into the headlight switch issue quickly. Sounds like a printed circuit board problem to me.
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Could be. My clock for the parts place works very well and only loses a few minutes every month or so. Of course you won't know for sure until you get the other stuff sorted as I do believe if the voltage going to the clock is high it will run faster than it should.
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Rob... yep. That is exactly what they do and not just in Cape Coral but all over Florida. We have friends building a home in Port Orange and that is what they did after the block was up. Rebar and filled with concrete. Ever since Hurricane Andrew the building codes changed in Florida
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I have. It looks okay and fits. Mine is still attached after many years and miles.
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We found a station in TN when we were there a few years back that sold non-ethanol in all three octane ratings, and it was cheap. I wonder why our local places, and most places really, only offer non-e gas in the mid octane range.
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i just finished armor plating my windows, so I should be okay. We are experienced hurricane "observers" and have taken all the usual precautions.... with plenty of liquor in case things get dicey
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Welcome Bob! Good to see another member from central Florida on the site. Your car looks really nice and I hope to see it in person, perhaps at the Turkey Rod run in a few months.
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Got mine and renewed via paypal. Thanks for the reminder Rob
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Welcome aboard Larry! Good looking 72 you have there. Keep us posted with your progress.
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I find it tacky when folks add SS badges to stuff that isn't an SS, and my car is pretty highly modified. Besides, the 1972 Custom badges are so much classier and more rare. Otherwise its a pretty car.
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So no dome light in either mode, door open or using the potentiometer on the headlight switch then? I want to say the headlight switch feeds the door switches power, but that is from memory and not looking at a wiring diagram
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Rockingham sounds fun
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Ordered. Thanks Dennis!
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Where did you get that 3 port C plate Dennis?
rough idle causes?
in Engine Tech
Posted
Yep, could be. Smells okay, like fuel should smell, but you never know.