ChevroletR

I see what you're saying, but on a nice cool day, the temperature can idle right around 195 and stay there. On a hot day in traffic, or staging lanes in my case, the temperature kept climbing, and climbing and I really didn't want to see where it would stop because I don't really think it would. That's kinda my reasoning for thinking it's not just the gauge, but the fact that even if it is off by 10, 20 or whatever degrees, it shouldn't climb as much as it does and continue, you know? As for answering your questions, I don't recall having any coolant boil from the overflow hose, but then again I'm not outside the car or close enough to be able to hear coolant boil (you can hear it boil in the overflow jug, at least on a friends T/A you could). the engine runs fine except slower E.T.s from when she was running cooler! The radiator is clean, and as for the 180 thermostat suggestion, you make a good point and I'll try that and I think that's the style of high flow thermostat I was looking for so you answered my question! I had the 180 in my 350 now that I think about it again and that was the only cooling system difference between the 350 and 383. Besides, it's a cheap way of trying something new that may work...or at least work better. Thanks Ryan

I know flex fans flex at higher RPMs but I'm having my issue at idle or slow vehicle speeds where there is no road-speed flow through the radiator. What would the difference be in the clutch fan versus the flex fan at these low engine speeds? Why are flex fans so bad?

That's what I thought too, that the coolant would flow too fast. It won't hurt to give it a try I guess. I'm running a rather large flex fan, which I wouldn't think would be a problem. What's the advantage of the clutch? It's not going to go any faster than the flex fan, only opens up the opportunity to go slower, which would pull less air though, right? And the flex fan is designed to flex at higher RPMS. I have the idiot light wired to the factory sender on the drivers head and my mechanical Sunpro (yeah I know...I have their voltmeter too in my car and it always reads 16 volts, yet when I check it with my DVOM, right at the back of the gauge, it reads 14-14.5 like it should) on the passenger head. I know the thermostat is only as good as the cooling system because if the cooling system can't keep it at 160, then the 160 stat really isn't able to do what it was intended for. I'll start cheap and go for the Mr. Gasket thermostat and then go from there. Thanks

Nope, factory crank pulley (the Monte's huge 3 ribbed pulley) so no change in water pump RPMs.

Yeah, my Monte gets hot only while sitting or barely moving, like if I have to keep it running in the staging lanes and in nice Baltimore area traffic or at our Ocean City Beach Cruises. As soon as I can get up to speed, she cools off and stays about 185-190. The thermostat is only as good as the cooling system that complements it! I've always wanted a nice electric fan setup, but I still think a water pump, if they do anything better for cooling, would be the next step for me.

I've had some overheating issues (205-215 with 160 thermostat) in the past with my 383 and I'm running a stock water pump and big block 4 core radiator and Stant 160 thermostat. I thought about going to a higher flow water pump to take advantage of the higher capacity radiator, does anybody recommend this or recommend a certain pump (not electric)? Also, I read in a magazine months back that the thermostat is the smallest restriction in the cooling system and that there are higher flow thermostats out there. I know Mr. Gasket makes some, but their quality of stuff never really has impressed me. Does anybody know of a reliable company that produces these and if this sounds like a good idea? Thanks Ryan www.RyansCustoms.com

Some toolmakers like Snap-on make pullers with removable ends for little jobs like that. I borrowed one from a friend to use on my truck and it worked nicely. One of those things to borrow though because the average person might use it a few times in their lifetime! Ryan www.RyansCustoms.com

I heard that a mis-adjusted kickdown/detent cable could cause premature transmission failure because of the sloppy shifts. Who wants sloppy shifts?

Yeah, I went ahead and got the one from Lokar...nice piece. They have a black one and a "stainless" one. I went the cheap route. Thanks guys Ryan

Haha, yup, mine was definately in wrong. I unbolted it and put it on the top of the lower frame rails...not sure how or why I had it bolted to the bottom...that was almost 7 years ago though when I was only 14! Live and learn I guess, right? And yes, mine has the rubber insulators on each end. I read an article in a Hot Rod or Super Chevy magazine (one of the several magazines I get) that had a letter of someone writing into the magazine about a question about his crossmember or the rubber insulators. The reply from the editor was that the rubber insulators were used on Pontiac and Oldsmobile vehicles so I immediated emailed in to send in a correction. Can't forget about the Montes! I just love it when people say how awesome Chevelles are...then I add, well I have a Monte Carlo and it's just about the same car with a 6 foot hood! Thanks, Ryan

Hey, I have a 1970 Monte Carlo w/ 383 and TH350 trans. I know this sounds weird but for the longest time I've had my trans crossmember (the rubber pad and bracket mount type) bolted to the bottom of the lower frame rail. I just realized this doesn't look right and the bracket is easily noticeable when you look at the side of the car. I'm also having problems with my driveshaft being wedged in and the last time I took it out to put a pinion seal in the rear, I had to really pry on the driveshaft to get it out. I was looking at other A-bodies, none though that I found with this rubber mounted style of a crossmember, but all of them were mounted above the lower frame rail. Is mine on wrong? I actually hope it is, maybe this will take care of my problem. lol. Thanks. Ryan Washington www.RyansCustoms.com

Got it out, thanks. I didn't play around with the grease or play-dough and went ahead and borrowed a small slide hammer style puller with a hook on the end and it came right out. Thanks Ryan Washington www.RyansCustoms.com

I did a search, on here, no luck. So how do I remove my pilot bearing and when I put it back in do I lube the pilot bearing/bushing or intermediate shaft at all? Or put it in dry? And is there suppose to be any play at all in the input shaft of my manual trans because mine has just the slightest bit of play, but I figured thats what the new pilot bearing is for, to keep it straight. Lastly, on my pressure plate, there are only two bolt holes that bolt it to the flywheel that are tight around the bolts, all the other ones are a little more loose around the bolts, does this mean the pressure plate isn't going to be centered or does it center itself somehow? Thanks Ryan Washington www.RyansCustoms.com

Hello, I have a Edelbrock AVS 650 carb on my 350 in my Monte and I already broke my first kickdown cable right there at the carb. I guess I had it on wrong. I have the cable that has a long slot down it and I put it on by putting a small nut and bolt through it and the carb linkage (same thingy on the carb as with the throttle) but I tightened it to keep it from moving. Someone told me it needs to slide back and fourth but I found even at WOT, its not enough to even budge the kickdown in the trans to kick to passing gear. Can anyone offer any advice to help me with this? Does anyone have any pictures that I could see to see a kickdown cable setup? I'd appreciate any help, thanks. Ryan Washington

I've seen transmission cooler lines for Chevelles front National Parts depot and stuff but I figured they'd come up a little short because the length of a Monte is a few inches longer. Has anybody ever used these? Anybody knows of anyplace that makes stainless cooler lines for the Monte? Thanks Ryan Washington