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RichG

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Posts posted by RichG

  1. I bought a little kit at my Chevy dealer several years ago. It was $4.95 Two wires hooked up to a buzzer. Pretty simple install. One lead goes to the inst lamps fuse and the other you use a test lead to find a circuit that goes dead when IGN is turned off. Buzzer stays off if lights are on and IGN is on, when lights are on and IGN off, the buzzer sounds.

  2. I'm like Andy. Big Block (mostly stock) 4 speed with Air conditioning. Totally stock cooling system with 3 row copper radiator, 7 blade clutch fan, 160 thermostat and stock fan shroud. NEVER gets above 180, even in summer w/ac on and idling. Ok, A/C needs a charge now, but when it did cool, the car still never overheated. Gotta love the factory engineering!

  3. Stay away from Painless. It's nicknamed "pain in the a##" for a reason. M&H makes excellent products as does American Auto Wire. Painless is cheap but NOT painless to work with. Try to describe your electrical issues here and you will get good sound advice from folks that have been there, done that.

  4. You need to weld the screw holes closed. If you just fill with bondo, it may eventually crack and fall out leaving a hole. The proper method is a quick blast with a mig welder and grind it smooth. No future worries.

  5. Most of the fiberglass pieces are not direct bolt on affairs. They are mostly designed for racing applications. Also, virtually all of the fiberlass components require topcoating, they are not designed to be "weatherproof" as they come out of the box. You would probably be better off with a quick Maaco $250-$500 paint job. They will do satin black if that is the look you are after.

  6. 350 2 barrel 10 bolt rear, 3 speed manual got 3.08

    350 2 barrel 10 bolt rear, powerglide & turbo 350 2.73 standard 3.36 optional

    350 4 barrel and up, 12 bolt rear 2.73 std 3.31 optional

    454 turbo400 3.31 std

    according to the AMA Data.

     

    The page we have on decoding the rears includes chevelle data and chevelles had "more & different" gear ratios available. Chevelles could get a 4.10 in the 12 bolt, Monte's could not.

  7. Has this been confirmed? I need to see if there is a build sheet for mine. I know it has a 350 and it was swapped at some point and it has a Rochester Quad 4bbl that is suppose to be original and it does from the info I could find have a 10 bolt 8.5 no posi in the rear? hmm need to delve deeper into codes on this car when I get out under it next.

     

    Yes, it has been confirmed. If you look at the AMA documents that Chevy filed, they clearly show that a 350 2 barrel got a 10 bolt and that 350 4 barrel and up all got 12 bolts. There was no option code to upgrade a 10 bolt to a 12 bolt, or to downgrade a 12 bolt to a 10 bolt. You can look at the AMA booklets if you got to the Restorer forum and look on page 5 for a topic called "Great Source of Information" There is a link to the booklets for each year of Monte Carlo.

  8. I can't speak for 1971 or 1972, but in 1970 they marketed the 402 as a 400. The 400 Turbo Fire was the small block 2 barrel and was labeled as 400 Turbo Fire, the 402 was called a 400 Turbo Jet and the air cleaned decal said that. Don't know what they did for 71 & 72 because they didn't offer the 400 small block anymore.

  9. I tried doing some research. Closest answer I could find said that manual trans carbs have a vacuum pull off for idle when you take your foot off the gas. Sort of keeps the rpm's up a little. Seems that most rebuilders leave them off. Seems like a MT carb will work fine in an Automatic car. I swapped my Q-Jet out in the early 80's for a Carter. Should have kept the Q-Jet but who knew?

  10. the throttle arm would be different, no need for kickdown linkage on a manual trans.

    I'm not sure that is entirely correct because the TH-400 has an electric kickdown switch mounted on the accelerator pedal bracket. My guess would be the quantity of vacuum ports because a manual trans doesn't have a modulator. Just a guess.

  11. I'm reading this late, but have a couple of questions. Do you run an overflow bottle or just the factory overflow hose to the ground? If you just have the hose, the radiator full mark when cold is about 6" below the filler neck. Stock radiators have a mark. If you fill it to just below the neck, the fluid has no where to expand when it gets warm so it pukes on the ground. Cars with an overflow bottle get filled to the top cause the bottle catches the overflow. I don't think I read if you have a bottle or not.

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