GatorDog72
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Posts posted by GatorDog72
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Love the stance!! It sits perfect!
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Mine sounds the same way but its a solid roller. Those are kinda noisy anyway. Comp xr286r
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16 hours ago, 7tonemonte said:
I just put Viking coilovers on the front of mine tonight and the smooth body Viking Warrior double adjustable on the rear.
Are the front ones on anyone else’s car next to impossible to adjust the ride height on? So hard to get any turn on the spanner wrench unless I am doing something wrong.
Use lots of never-sieze on the threaded shock body. Are you adjusting it on the ground, or with the wheels in the air? I tried adjusting a car while the suspension was loaded and it's much harder to turn the collar.
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Another vote for Viking's. I have them on the front. It's by far the cheapest option if you want separate control of compression and rebound. Nice set of shocks for the price.
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38 minutes ago, Brew said:
69 Mustang is my best guess
I think that’s a pretty good guess!! Looks like those are it. Who the heck put Ford parts on my car???
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I’m looking to recover my old shredded bucket seats. From what I’m told, they are Chevelle buckets but I can’t figure out what year, or if they are even really from a Chevelle. They don’t look like factory Monte buckets either…. Can anyone ID these bucket seats so I can order some new foam and covers? I may end up replacing them both if I can’t figure out what they are from.
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Steve, is this at 3 Rivers in Clay?
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Sounds like the bushing inside the tailhousing has gone bad. Have you taken out driveshaft? What does the yolk look like? Do you have a short yolk or a long? U joints ok?
Yeah, the bushing is toast for sure. Yolk is still good and so are the U-joints. I was lucky to find the problem before the tail housing exploded and I ran over the driveshaft. The transmission is brand new, I guarantee it doesn't have 500 miles on it. I figured the trans would be the weak point and the first thing to break, just didn't expect it to break so quickly!
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Hey all! Been a while since I've posted. I drove my car to the Syracuse Nationals over the weekend and on the way home started getting a really bad vibration. I checked it out today and the tail shaft has tons of play and is moving around in the housing. The seal was also popped out. It's a built TH400 automatic. I'm not nice to this car and it makes quite a bit of power. I'm thinking when I put the hammer down, something is moving that shouldn't be. Possible bad pinion angle/ trans misalingment? I'm running the stock trans cross-member and mount, maybe it's time to upgrade to something beefier?
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I have a wilwood dynapro 4 wheel disc set-up on mine. Had a little trouble getting the pedal to feel right at first. I just swapped the master cylinder to change the bore size. The wilwood kit was a bit pricey but very much worth it imo. Works great so far. There's nothing wrong with manual brakes, my car stops as well as newer cars.
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I like the smooth look, I don't have any of the rocker trim or wheel well trim. I left the rain channel in place though. I think the Montes look great either way.
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I just tell my friends- it's not leaking, it's sweating horsepower!!!
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Definitely use rtv in the corners. I'm having the same problem at the moment. Engine leaked a little at first, tightened the bolts down and made it worse. I didn't use rtv on the oil pan at all and now I'm kicking myself.
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If its got a vacuum leak somewhere, you could play with the settings on the carb all day and get nowhere except very frustrated. As Rod said, a vacuum gauge is a must have for diagnosis on these older machines.
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It couldn't hurt to give the whole carb a good cleaning. I don't like knocking other shops or mechanics, but sometimes when a part isn't in perfect condition they will tell you to just replace it. It's easier for them to just bolt on a new part, rather than take it all apart and clean/rebuild it. Unless the main body of the carb is bent or cracked, you can just replace the parts needed to get it like new.
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It's probably the hose that goes to the vacuum modulator. Check the transmission fluid level, it should still go into gear and move, even without the modulator hooked up. Engine needs to be running and transmission in Park.
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I usually figure about 15-20% drive train loss with an automatic transmission. 300HP at the wheels would be about 345-360HP at the flywheel.
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In case you don't have them already, here's a link to the instruction manual for your carb.
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Try a float adjustment next. What's the number on the carb you are working with?
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Chambered or "turbo" mufflers will be much quieter than glass packs.
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Went to a local show today, beautiful day and great turnout over 500 cars there. Was nearly a dozen first gens there I knew most of the owners and a few members there too, I talked to the ones I could find. Was a good time for sure.
Steve, where was this show located? I totally missed this one. I was at Race Wars with the purple Hemi at ESTA Speedway. Went 14.3 @ 99.7mph.
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Did you shim the starter properly when you installed it? I've never seen a starter break like that, could be a possible flex-plate issue. Shouldn't be a timing problem, my engine started with the timing locked out at 36 degrees. It just turned over slow. Check to make sure the flex-plate isn't bent and that its correct for your engine/transmission. The starter should come with instructions on how to shim for the correct clearance.
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It almost looks like the tab on the float is bent. First thing I would do is soak that carb in some carb cleaner, it looks pretty gooey. The float should have a little bit of resistance to it, but not a lot. If the fuel level can't move the float then its going to flood out. Get some new bowl gaskets when you put it back together. Those look like they are starting to come apart.
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I've never had one apart, but I would guess that the mechanical pump has check valves inside to keep fuel flowing towards the engine instead of back to the tank. Maybe your mechanical pump is about to kick the bucket. I can't recommend adding an electric pump with the mechanical still in place. Electric fuel pumps typically need some sort of pressure regulator to keep fuel pressure within spec. Too much pressure and you could damage the needle/seat/float assembly in the carburetor. It will flood your engine too. I would try replacing the mechanical unit first to see if it solves your problem.
SHOW ME YOUR HEADS!
in Engine Tech
Posted
Here’s mine. AFR 325’s and direct port nitrous.