GatorDog72
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Posts posted by GatorDog72
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Most likely some garbage stuck in the float assembly or a sunk float. Try tapping lightly on the float bowl to see if it stops flooding. Don't use a giant hammer, a screwdriver handle is plenty.
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A turbo 350 should do just fine. As long as it's in good condition it should hold up well with 450 hp. If you are worried about it breaking, pull it out and have a trans shop take a look at it to find out the condition it's in.
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Don't bother with stainless braided line, unless you plan on racing. Rubber ones work just fine and are MUCH cheaper than stainless. For the pump to carb, I'm sure someone makes a replacement pre-bent metal line.
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A couple other options would be to get an auxiliary vacuum pump for the brakes, or switch to a hydro boost set-up. The hydro boost runs off the power steering pump and doesn't require vacuum.
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Very clean work! keep the pictures coming! Good call going with coated rotors, I got the regular iron ones for my wilwood setup and they rusted badly within the first month. I'm kicking myself for not spending the extra $$$ for coated ones!
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here is post from another forum that will tell you how to fix/get around it http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/125705-photobucket-fix/
(copy and pasted from said post \/ (just wanted to give credit to the right people))
There is now a plugin for Firefox and Chrome to allow you to see pictures again.
Firefox users go here https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/fir...d-fix/?src=api
Chrome users go here https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...flicjjgj?hl=en
Search photobucket and add "photobucket embed fix" to your browser.
I can confirm that this works for chrome. No more stupid "Please update your account" pictures!!! Thank you so much for posting this.
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Photobucket has broken thousands of very informative threads on forums across the web with their new policy. Very disappointing to see this happen. I refuse to pay $400 and will be moving all pictures to car domain. /end rant
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Drove her to to Street Scene, a local show on the 19th. I totally crashed the party as it was mostly import tuner cars. Had to bring in some old school heavy duty American muscle. Check out the video, my car is at 3:55. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC-h66iHDPk
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I love the old fashioned sound of cherry bombs. That's what I'm running on mine. It's not exactly quiet though lol
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I don't know much about auto trannys, but when I gang second in my 400, it hits hard and fast, but I had it professionally built for racing
That's how I thought it should shift. Maybe I broke something. I will have to check it out I guess. It only shifts late when I really launch the car hard and shift into second at full throttle. I'm shifting it at 6800-7000 rpm and the rev limiter is set at 7500. It bangs off the limiter for a couple seconds, then slams into gear and blows the tires off. The 2-3 shift is perfect, it shifts instantly. Part throttle launches work okay too. If I launch it softer, then give it about 2/3 throttle and shift it early into second, there's no delay and no slam shift.
Does it have a vacuum modulator? is it adjustable? is there vacuum to it?
Not sure my transmission has a modulator any more. I don't know much about automatics, I will have to investigate.
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I have a TH400 with a reverse manual valve body on it. When I launch the car hard and grab second, there's a pretty good delay before it actually shifts. By the time it shifts, I'm bouncing off the rev limiter. Is there a way to get rid of this annoying delay, or should I just be shifting it sooner?
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Depends completely on your build. How was your rotating assembly balanced? Internally or externally? The carb will depend on cam specs, stall speed, and final drive ratio. If its fairly stock, you can't beat a Quadrajet. A 4150 Holley works real nice too.
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Very cool build! You have made quite a bit of progress. Looks like it will be a monster when it's done. What size turbos are those? Are you planning to run pump gas or methanol?
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Definitely rebuild what you have. Bring them to a machine shop you trust and have them do the work needed. Lots of times even brand new performance heads have valve seat issues straight out of the box. You will have a much better cylinder head if you either rebuild what you have, or get a set of bare heads and have a machine shop set them up properly with good parts.
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I've seen a couple of Nova's with corvette rear suspensions, but I can't say I've seen it done on a Monte or Chevelle. Check the track width and start from there, I would bet the Corvette rear is narrower than a Monte or Chevelle. Its probably more work than its worth to swap in, but it would be really cool to see.
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I used earls ultra flex line and fittings. It doesn't really matter what brand you use, as long as you get the fittings from the same company who makes the hose.
Sam is right, it was a massive pain in the butt to do mine and it's really not worth it unless you NEED the larger diameter line.
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I ripped my fuel cell and battery out of the trunk to completely strip the crappy peeling paint and rust off the floor. Repainted it with black chassis paint, now the trunk looks acceptable enough to open it at a show
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A carb spacer would add some clearance but it might make the air cleaner sit too high and hit the hood
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You should be able to use the 12v from the carb solenoid to make it work. I'm not sure what size wire that uses, but it needs to be close to 12 gauge if you use it for the distributor. I used that wire for the electric choke on my Nova and it worked fine. Best way to do it is to just run a 12 gauge wire from the fuse block to the distributor.
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I asked a professional who builds race cars for a living about the fuel system. He recommended running a separate pump and regulator for a nitrous system this size. The fuel set up in my diagram would not have enough volume to feed the system properly. I decided to mount a separate 1 gallon fuel cell in the front of the car dedicated to the nitrous system. That way I don't have to run more fuel lines all the way to the back. Just waiting on parts to get here to continue.
I also picked up a 65 pound mother bottle at a welding supply so I can fill my own bottles. My cousin helped me make a bottle stand to hold it upside down. Worked out nicely. I need a more accurate scale to weigh the bottles on, I just used a bathroom scale to fill the bottle for testing. I rigged up the manifold to a jump pack to test the solenoids and to make sure the nozzles are spraying properly. Check out the video on YouTube! ---------> Nitrous Test
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That looks really nice! I bet they are more comfortable than the stock ones. I have to do something with my seats, the covers are held together with duct tape and it's starting to stick to my butt.
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As to the exhaust, I now have a massive hole in the back of one of the mufflers (see picture). It blew it wide open. Now I really need some exhaust suggestions.
Holy Smokes!! That's what I call a backfire!!!
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Is that pump any quieter than my Holley black? I despise that thing.
Not sure how loud the Holley is, but the A1000 in my car is definitely not quiet. I can hear it running over the engine idling with open headers. Its also mounted in the trunk and I have no sound deadener or carpet in the car.
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So my plan for the fuel system is not going to work.... My carburetor runs off a Holley bypass style regulator @ 6psi. I wanted to just run a deadhead regulator for the nitrous system off the same feed line from the pump. Problem is, I want the nitrous fuel pressure to be higher than the carburetor. Even if I installed a deadhead and set the pressure as high as it will go, it will only reach the 6psi the bypass regulator is set to. I'm running an Aeromotive A1000 pump that requires a bypass regulator and a return line. I'm thinking to set the bypass regulator at around 15psi, then run 2 deadhead regulators to the carb and nitrous. Does this sound like it will work? Fuel system is much brain hurt.
Here's a drawing of what I'm trying to do
First start in 3 years, fuel pump to carb line question.
in Engine Tech
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They aren't bad at all, especially the ones that have the glass windows on the float bowls instead of the screw. I prefer 4150 or 4500 Holley's over any other carb for their tuning options.