Corvus
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Posts posted by Corvus
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Anyone? Anything else I should be looking at?
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Ah forgot to mention, brand new KYB 4513 when I did everything else. I wouldn't say it really floats just driving, but there is barely any feedback when going over bumps in the front. Rear end there is.
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245/275 for me
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Hi all,
Been a good while since posting. I rebuilt the entire front end on the 70 Monte, but it still seems like there's a lot of "soak" in the front. Like when I go over speed bumps, the travel seems to soak up almost the entire bump and there is little feedback. Is this stock big body stuff, or do the springs seem too long? It looks a little high.
The front end has Speedway tubular upper/lower CA, Moog balljoints, 6330 springs, and 245/60/15 MT Sportsmans on Rallys. Engine is a 305 and the car still has the heater box, but no AC compressor.
Thanks for any info.
-David
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Roger that, thank you gentlemen.
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Hi all,
Working on a much needed brake job. Noticed the master/booster is pretty tilted back. This looks normal? Seems like it impacts fluid level?
Thanks,
David
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David,
I'm not sure how you get by with 275/60's on the front - must have some serious rubbing on tight turns. I run 255/60s on the front (275/60s in back) and needed a 1" spacer to ensure clearance. Unless you want a distinct rake or size appearance difference, you probably don't need anything smaller than a 245/60 but it's your choice. Personally I like the 255/275 combo better than the four 245s I have on my '70 SS.
Dennis, I'm not sure either. I haven't noted any serious rubbing from the front even lock-lock. But I haven't investigated it in depth just yet. This isn't a very good picture because my driveway is slanted, but the front end is quite up in the air. I have an all new front end to put on it, but it drives very floaty right now. I think you're right and I'll probably give 245/60/15 on the front and keep the 275/60 on the back. I'm not really sure how the front tires are fitting, I feel like something odd is going on up front haha.
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Hi all,
Looking to get new front rubber for my 70. Currently, it has 275/60/15 on all four corners and handles like a boat. I do like the 275s in the back and like the height of the rear as it sits currently. But the front definitely needs to come down a couple inches.
Which would be more preferable? A 225/70/15 or a 235/60/15 with keeping the 275/60/15 in the rear? I do like the forward rake look, but want this thing to handle better.
Thanks!
-David
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Christmas for the Monte
Everything is looking pretty good. I went with Moog lower ball joints to get pressed into the Speedways as well.
I'll probably get the uppers at some point, but I'll keep a close eye on the Speedway ones for now.
New rotors, pads, control arms, springs, shocks, steering linkage, and a beefier sway bar.
Time to bring the front end back down to earth and see if I can reduce some of this boat's body roll.
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Awesome! Didn't know those were a direct fit, those look much better. Gotta show off my cheapy upper tubular control arms
Mine are all kinds of cracked and the fenders are flopping around while driving because none of it is bolted together haha. I would think steel would offer a little more support. I'll also be relocating the battery to the trunk, so should clean it up a bit more. Thanks for the feedback and pics!
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Steel Chevelle inners? Ya, work just fine and look good too
Ahhh so is there something that can work with the Monte fenders? You've got my interest now
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I think it would really crap up the engine compartment. Just look at what gathers on the underside of the inner fender wells. Without them in place all of that would not only collect in the engine compartment but also under the fenders and all over the firewall.
rob
Definitely agreed. I'd try to put something to cover the tire, but still not take up all the room the plastics do.
Stone chips will create
High spots in the outside and almost guarantee rust in the back sides of the fenders.
Not a very good idea if you plan on driving it anywhere!
If you can design something that will protect from that it would be a nice idea
Very true. I'm thinking of something (probably some thinish gauge sheetmetal) to "seal off" the inner fender and form an arch over the tire. Something more flush with the fenders and could still use the same bolt locations. Just malling things over since my plastics are pretty beat up and I like a cleaner engine bay. I'll see if I can photoshop something, just thought I'd see if anyone had something similar or ran without them.
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Hey all,
Curious if anyone runs without the plastic inner fenders on their Monte. I was really interested in the Tokyo Drift Monte Carlo and like the open engine bay look without them. I know that it would kick a bunch of crap up into the engine bay, but curious if anyone has driven without them and how bad it is. Thinking about making something to still brace the fenders but not be as big as the plastic ones.
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David I brought the same control arms for my 72 last year simply because of the price vs buying stamp steel ones with new ball joints and bushing costing the same amount of money. I saw your post over on the Chevelle forum as well, why do you think you have big block springs in the front for? I have read a few post where the steering box had to be adjusted to get play out of it. Since you are tearing it down to do a complete front end rebuild change out the original spindle to a 2" drop, and maybe go with a drop spring to give it a better handle. I worked on a 71 that someone stuck taller coil springs in and it handle like junk, we took and added drop springs brought it back down to earth and it handle better. As for the 275 front tire sounds like someone wanted to have a high front end look. I have found a 225/70 looks better on the front, but then again I like a skinny tire up front and a wide tire in the rear (my 70 has had 225/70/15 on the front with a 295/50 on the rear, 255/50/16 all the way around and currently a 26x8 on the front and 26x10 in the rear).
Awesome, thanks for the feedback. How are they working out for you? That was my thoughts too, I was going to replace the control arm bushings with poly and all of the ball joints. Taking that out of the price it was about $150-200 for brand new tubular control arms with that stuff installed. They can't really be THAT bad can they? The Chevelle guys seem to think they crack?
I have no idea, it might have had a big block at some point. It just seems like the front end "soaks" up bumps with travel while the rear acts more proper. A large portion of this may be caused by the big tires, I'll be fixing that too. I will take a look at the steering box, I'm not 100% it is stock, but it does seem to work pretty well and the play isn't intolerable. I do think the passenger side outer tie rod is tweaked though, it just doesn't look straight.
I do have plans to do a drop spindle, and made sure that they would be compatible with the speedway arms. I was just going to clean up the stockers and put some cheap new rotors on this time around. Plan will be to get drilled/slotted and some proper calipers on drop spindles with stainless lines when I save up some more later. Yeah, I'll take a look at the tires, I'm thinking either a 225/70 or a 235/60 with the MT Sportsman S/T.
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First order placed for the 70 Monte and the task is to get the front end acting a big more tame. Worn out bushings and ball joints, who knows how old shocks, possibly twisted tie rods, and 275 front tires have led to a floaty and boat-like ride.
I went with:
-Speedway upper/lower tubular control arms (needed the balljoints and bushings anyways)
-Moog 6330 front coils
-KYB gas-a-just shocks
-Full Moog steering linkage
-Summit 1 5/16" sway bar
-Plan to go with MT street radial 235/60/15s
Got the control arms in today and they look pretty nice. I've heard they are almost exact copies of Global West stage 3's. Delrin/poly bushings and ball joints already installed with spherical sway bar attachment
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Been researching the same thing...I'd be starting from ground zero since I'm pretty sure I have a 305.
This is pretty tough to beat from what I've been researching even building it up piece by piece cheaply...
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clean up that casting number, it looks like it "might" be a "3"
Ah, that would make sense. I'll see if I can clean it up some. Gonna pop the heads off at some point and that will answer everything haha. Thanks for the help!
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if that is UDM it is a 1983 305 with 150hp
Well that would suck. I'll take a closer look and clean off more of the paint. Thought the 14010209 was a 350.
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Definitely not original, no doubt there. The Q-jet seems to be from the mid-70s as well.
I attached the ID tag in front of the passenger header and the casting # from the driver side rear. Haven't popped the covers off yet.
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Hi all,
I have it narrowed down to a 80-85 2 or 4 bolt 350, but can't find the engine ID used anywhere. Maybe a heavy duty truck?
Casting- 14010209
ID- K06220DM
Vin-1D1269238 (Not 100%, tougher to make out)
Thanks for any help!
Front end float?
in Brakes and Suspension Tech
Posted
Yeah I've checked the tires, but they are smaller than what was originally on there when I bought it (275 up front). I'm guessing it's a combination of light up front and lots of spring travel. Just bothers me that the 6330 are supposed to be the stock height for the small block Monte. Maybe because it's missing the AC compressor? That shouldn't be much though. Oh well, I'll probably either hack these up or pony up more bucks for some drop springs. Just seems like it sits high for what it's supposed to be. Thanks.