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A_Rescue

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Posts posted by A_Rescue

    650 HP EFI system for BBC

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Thanks Paul, good work and I appreciate the effort.  I was leaning towards EFI replacement tank due to potential corrosion.  The PWM controller fuel pump system will economize on alternator load as well as keep the fuel temperature low by not returning hot bypass gasoline to the tank.  Heat kills motors of all kinds... I only want to do this once.... This is getting harder as time goes by...

     

    I was looking at this RFI fuel tank... sump and baffles and a non PWM motor

     

    https://www.efisystempro.com/image/catalog/pdf-library/sniper-efi-fuel-tank-system-setup-guide.pdf

     

    I'm fueling a big block LS5 454 with all new internals built for the drag strip.  The motor is in the mid 650 HP range, rectangular intakes, custom stainless steel exhaust currently connected to a turbo 400 (Tremec 6 speed is on my mind) and a 4.56 12 bolt rear end...

     

    For the EFI controller I am liking the Holley dominator EFI... It can run two or more (up to 24) O2 sensors and having two oxygen sensors for dual exhaust, one for each bank, will make bank to bank or sequential injection a lot cleaner and better analysis of tune and motor condition.  The dominator offers inputs for knock sensing and it offers bandwidth control to filter out the solid lifters and header noise.  In addition, the dominator will drive a 4l80E and a 6L80 E capability is on the horizon If I decide against the tremec 6 speed manual....  I REALLY LIKE the horseshoe shifter....but I love a manual... Is it Monte Blasphemy to put a 6 speed in it?

     

    efi controller holley dominator

     

    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/dominator_efi/dominator_ecu/parts/554-114

     

     

    I'm just dangerous enough with a keyboard to utilize a lot of the dominator capabilities...  as long as I have wideband O2 sensors to read I wont need a dyno.... just the logging system  which accepts external widebands…   Now I am not sure how to get synched to the rotor for sequential firing, batch/bank firing wont need the cylinder one timing pulse but sequential firing will.  I want to set it up for sequential if I figure out how to do it without breaking the bank... more research to be done.

     

    The manifold and fuel rail I am not decided on, not a lot of data on the performance differences between the ram air configurations out there.  Edelbrock has a nice dual plane manifolds that will fit under the hood scoop just fine, weiand and holley have good stuff to...  not up to that decision yet, single plane or dual plane is the first decision to make.  I think the dominator has the tuning RPM resolution to enable a single plane with careful tuning below 2000 RPM's.  I make about 10 inches vacuum at 700 rpm idle in gear.  more research on the dominator software is due soon...  I want drive-ability at lower RPM's...

     

    Once I figure the fuel delivery system and alternator loading I will wire it all with 12 gauge minimum with fusing and an accelerometer cutoff and maybe a low fuel pressure cutoff and low oil pressure interlock.    Once the fuel system and electrical system is done I will finalize the schematic and wiring locations along with wire gauge, all components and fuel hose sizes and locations and share it with the team..

     

    so I have decisions to make and more research to do but I am certain I can do the entire package for just a bit over 4 grand....   

     

    more to come and thank you Paul

     

    john

    650 HP EFI system for BBC

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    I'm putting together the parts list for the EFI upgrade on my Monte.  Im seeking to know what has been used and reliable for the EFI guys out there. 

     

    As part of the EFI upgrade I will be rewiring a significant amount of electrical charging and everything else in the system.  Charging system will be required to feed Dual electric fans, electric fuel pump, EFI, 400 watts sound system, lights and A/C at full blast at idle on a hot day(looks like a 140 amps charging system will be needed for margin).  More to come on that

     

    I am curious what others have used for fuel delivery systems.  I see three options.  Option 1 is an external pump and filter(s) using the existing tank  Option 2 is an internal fuel pump kit using the existing fuel tank.  Option 3 is a new tank designed for EFI with the pump included (Holley stinger) 

     

    Option 1 is the external pump/filter.  Advantages are price and easier installation (Sometimes) and repair.  Not sure where to put the pump and be physically below the tank and away from exhaust.

     

    Option 2 is the internal pumps kits for existing fuel tanks.  Easier installation but the tank wont have a sump and in hard acceleration the pump may get air bound.  The tank is 50 years old, not sure if its immaculate inside for EFI.  medium price

     

    Option 3 is a new tank designed for EFI, complete with pump and pick ups.  600 bucks...  bolts right in...  clean tank with the specified flow rate/pressure

     

    Also I'm wondering about safety and interlocks, with these flow rates I want that pump off if I get rear ended, or lose oil pressure, or low fuel pressure.

     

    Did you include low pressure cutoff switches?

     

    Did you include an interlock through the Oil pressure sensor?

     

    Did you include an accelerometer shut off in the event of impact?

     

    Love to hear what's been done and working out there....  thanks in advance

     

    john

     

     

     

     

    noisy/loud valve train

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Well folks I did what i could, that truck is just going to sound like a rock tumbler.   Thanks for all the feedback and especially the feedback from others who have used this comp cams set up too...   I'll borrow what was said here... ill say they are solid lifters....hehehehe  

     

    on a good note...On my Monte... I put the hellwig sway bar on (lots of stuff to change from a drag racer to a street car) and took it out for a drive today.  wow....  gotta love a well built big block....

     

    thanks for the support guys!!!

    • Like 1

    noisy/loud valve train

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    I am looking at a new set of roller rockers with ball bearing trunions.  That will free up 20 or so horseys and they wont care if I change the cam or lifters...  lots of options...   its only money... Thanks Steve, i'll record the valve train audio tomorrow when I fire it up...  two simultaneous projects....

    noisy/loud valve train

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    OK... got back into the valve train issue today....   checked rocker geometry and the pushrod length is spot on.   then checked seated spring pressures and saw 130 to 170 with most about 150 lbs.  Comp wants 1.9 inch installed height at 120 lbs.  a little heavy on seat pressure but that should help the steep rate of rise on the roller cam.  valve is showing roller contact in center of  valve stem.  pushrods straight and correct sizes....   reset all lifters to a 1/4 turn past 0 lash and I will fire it up tomorrow.  The disappointment in NOT finding something wrong that is making this valve train scream is getting to me...

     

    back at it tomorrow and if its loud again i'm going to live with it...   

     

    I advise staying away from this kit from Comp....  kit is for a roller cam conversion designed specifically for the BBC Gen IV and Gen V... irritating to keep taking this thing apart...  

     

    OK enough whining...

     

    http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=441&sb=0

    post-24188-0-58531000-1534475180_thumb.jpg

    post-24188-0-20631800-1534475235_thumb.jpg

    Converted from auto to 4 speed

    in Drivetrain Tech

    Posted

    Steve, the formuas look good, but actual tire slippage is not accounted for.  At 70 MPH, depending upon tire traction, there would be greater than the math tire rotations to be at the actual speed.  This should not be 10% tho, 3 to 5 % max at 70 for slippage is what I would expect.  The RPM/timing light or an additional tach would verify the degree of error in the dash tach.  

     

    john

    shop manuals

    in SS 454

    Posted

    I have been searching for the complete set of GM shop manuals for the 1971 ss454.  There are options out there but I am not sure what to go with, prices are all over the place.  Manuals on a CD are available and reasonably priced but I prefer paper...

     

    Any recommendations?  

     

    Thanks

     

    john

    Need help with engine problem

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Im thinking spark also, the coil probably, easy/cheap change... as the AFR decreases (more fuel/enrichment) in the cylinders the spark plug spark gap dielectric resistance increases and the coil cant support the energy...    coils can short on the primary one winding at a time and its progressive until the missing starts...  heat accelerates this and a shrink tubing gun on the coil could help if the misfires are the coil and thermally aggravated...

     

    check the coil/plug wires...

    • Like 1

    Self-learning fuel injection systems-FiTech, Sniper, EZ-EFI

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Thank you Paul,

     

    I too have done alot of research and work on EFI and the engine controllers out there.  I cut my teeth on an Edelbrock MPFI conversion from a OBD1 TBI 454 in a truck.  I used the stock PCM and cut out the factory chip and replaced it with a E squared Prom.  The stock OBD1 system advantage at the time was the knock sensor retard capability that was not available on the ECM's a few years ago and transmission controlling of a 4l80E. 

     

    knock sensing and retard during the initial tune and if you transition through limited Octane zones (California 91 max) can save your motor.  knock sensor counts versus RPM are a critical EFI tuning tool...  VERY CRITICAL if the motor is built.  Detonation is killer... been there... done that... paid the price! 

     

    The single narrowband O2 sensor feedback method is a problem for dual exhaust, with or without a crossover, which side do I put the O2 sensor on?  It cant be both....  The single O2 sensor feedback method relies on all 8 cylinders running the same, each bank of 4 being identical.  So monitoring and deriving AFR feedback from one set of four cylinders means one bank of 4 cylinders is assumed to be the same as the O2 monitored set of 4 cylinders.  keep that in mind, it is OK as long as everything is OK...  

     

    Megasquirt and Holly (Dominator) are the only PCM's that have knock sensing and dual (or more) wideband O2 sensing/feedback capability and transmission control capability.  Holley Dominator will control a 4L80E but not the 6L80E (Yet, I am waiting for it).  

     

    Additional deficiencies of all but megasquirt and the Dominator is the VE tables near idle are to course to effect a good tune with a motor that has been modified.  Paul touched on the minimum vacuum issue above quite well.  I circumnavigated the issue by adding more rows of VE at smaller RPM ranges from 600 RPM's to 2000 RPM's increasing my resolution.  so instead of having 4 adjustment ranges of 500 RPM's each (ie. 1000 to 1500 RPM's), I created tables with 125 RPM ranges for "Near Idle"  VE lookup tables.  This was effective as witnessed by the variation in the VE tables below 2000 RPM's at each of the 125 RPM ranges, dramatic changes required to properly fuel the big block near idle.  Big difference in driveability with the up camming effects on vaccum and air flow in the heads...

     

    I have gone through a lot learning on EFI systems and I fully embrace the EFI world.  Once I learned how to use the mouse, computer, EFI tuning software, chip programmer/burner, data logging software I was doing it.  The EFI gives us the capability to have different jetting/timing at any RPM by hitting enter...

     

    Hotel Sierra

     

    I could go on for hours on this subject... happy to respond to questions...

     

    john

     

     

    I am currently anticipating 

    • Like 1

    noisy/loud valve train

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    when I replaced the lifters Friday with new ones, I inspected the rods, cam, and everything I could see.  I am not going to get back to it until later this week.  I'm gonna go with zero lift at first and go a 1/4 turn each time after and see where they are happy...if they get happy.  I will pull the coil lead and make sure we are oiling out of the pushrods.   Ill make sure the pushrod length is good by insuring the rocker roller is centered on the valve stem.  Ill check the valve height and depth....

     

    This has been going on for a while and comp cams tech help has not been very helpful...   lots of complaints on the summit and the comp website for these lifters.  good thing it was only 100 degrees Friday....

    'thanks guys

    noisy/loud valve train

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Thanks guys

     

    I have tried zero, a 1/4, a half, and 3/4ths of a turn on all of them multiple times with the same or worse results.  Then bought a complete new set of roller lifters because I couldn't hear exactly which one was bad and I don't want to keep tearing the intake off.  Installed them at a 1/2 turn and same clacking. 

     

    The rod height is correct if the rocker roller is in the middle of the stem....?

     

     

    I'll start again at a 1/4 past zero lash.   

    noisy/loud valve train

    in Engine Tech

    Posted

    Not my monte but my 95 454 truck rebuild i am close to completing and the valve train is way to loud.  Replaced the entire set of lifters today put a 1/2 turn past zero in them and the same noisy clacking valve train.  This is a comp cams roller conversion kit for the 95 GMC and the only difference is the edelbrock 60499 head vs. the stock heads.  

     

    This is driving me nuts, what am I doing/did wrong?  any help is appreciated

     

     

     

    1995 gmc 7.4 liter rebuild. 

    Edelbrock 60499 heads

    Comp cam hydraulic roller cam p/n 11-423-8

    Comp cam hydraulic roller lifters p/n 854-16

    Cam valve springs P/N 924-16

    Cams retrofit pushrods P/N 7815-16

    Comp cam retainers P/N 7411-16

    Comp cam roller timing chain P/N 2110

    Flat top pistons, 30/1000 over, edelbrock MPFI

     

    john

     

     

     

    hood springs

    in Auto Body Repair

    Posted

    Latches... latches... i dont need no steenking latches....        The hood is not that heavy either... wondering if it needs reinforcement prior to paint...  hate to screw the paint job up flexing the hood...

     

    john

    hood springs

    in Auto Body Repair

    Posted

    Ahhh steve, thanks...  It is a very big hood for sure...  Is there any other considerations with the fiberglass hood?  Think I should i try to fit a latch to it or rely on the hood pins.....

     

    john

    hood springs

    in Auto Body Repair

    Posted

    I have the fiberglass hood on the 71 and it has a scoop.  There are hoodpins, no latch, and no springs....  OGPI has two types of springs, one for steel hood and one for fiberglass hood (Twice the price).  not sure what the difference is since the webpage is not very descriptive....   

     

     

    https://www.opgi.com/monte-carlo/1971/sheet-metal-body-panels/hood/G200016/ https://www.opgi.com/monte-carlo/1971/sheet-metal-body-panels/hood/CH20357/

     

     

    Does anyone understand the need for "fiberglass hood springs" for the fiberglass hood?   I am thinking they might be lower tension springs to prevent bending of the hood when closing it....    not sure

     

    john

     

     

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