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A_Rescue

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  • Content Count

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About A_Rescue

Full Members Dues-paying
  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/20/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    S.Cal
  • Interests
    anything requiring wheels, motors, fishing gear, or a smoker...
  • Legal Name
    John Hennessy
  • Occupation
    Electrical engineer

Recent Profile Visitors

245 profile views
  1. Thanks willie... Fixed it... master cylinder leaked into booster... cleaned it all up, new master cylinder... bleeding... then booboo gone Thanks
  2. I own a 1971 monte 454SS. Does anyone know the brake type used on this vehicle. The book shows 4 versions, Delco Moraine Single or dual diaphragm, and Bendix single or dual diaphragm. I am not able to look at the car today and I am hoping to get the parts on order.... or a rebuild kit for the diaphragm and master cylinder brakes idiot light on and brake fluid seeping on the diaphragm outer case from master cylinder Thanks... John
  3. If the cooling system is functioning and the gauges are intact... check the ignition timing.... john
  4. The drivers seat doesn't have the forward/backward electrical switch, I am having a hard time finding anything for the electric seat... motor, connectors, or the switch.... Anybody know what the pat numbers are or where I can find them?? Thanks John
  5. Paul, I am looking at the 71 ss instrumentation panel schematics and I can't seem to be able to locate the ampmeter circuit… any clues? The ampmeter is pointing to the floor and doesn't move... might be disconnected, unwired, or broken... clues are appreciated
  6. cool, learned something...
  7. the switch is where I would look first... works in three positions but not in fourth position.... john
  8. The single wire versus the 3 wire alternator essentially means that the voltage regulator "Senses" the voltage level at a point downstream of the alternator, versus right at the alternator. For low current draws systems (No fans or electric fuel pumps or a high wattage stereo) this is not a problem. What can be done is reducing the wire losses between the 1 wire internal regulator to the distribution/fuse panel for the the DC distribution. for the 1 wire alternator a heavy Ga. wire to the fuse panel will decrease the drop in voltage in the wiring and the local regulator on the alternator will do a better job with only a 1/4 volt or so difference between the regulator sensing the voltage at the alternator compared to a 3 wire sensing the voltage at the distribution point... Make sense?? decreasing the voltage drop to the electrical loads will be as effective as 3 wire remote regulation..... john
  9. A_Rescue

    71 SS

    wow... I appreciate the pictures... very motivational...
  10. Ten Ga. wire is a better choice. The factory wire is sized for the average current and disregards the peak voltage drop of the "Pulsed" coil primary. So the average current is what the factory wire size is determined by, but the peak current losses are what needs to be limited for maximum performance. Keeping in mind the average current in the wire is determined by RPM's and the peak current is always determined by wire resistance and the dielectric resistance of the compressed fuel/air mixture. The voltage drop across the wire during the "Pulse" is calculated by peak current x peak current x wire resistance. The peak current losses (Voltage drop) will be the same every current pulse but the average losses (Voltage drop) will increase with RPM's. minimizing the wire length and resistance (Thicker wire/smaller Ga.) from the HEI to the coil primary will give you the strongest spark. The thicker Ga. wire has lower resistance and becomes more critical as the compression of the motor increases. The higher the engine compression the greater the "Dielectric resistance" of the fuel/air mixture becomes... so a smaller gap at the plugs and increased wire Ga. and minimum required wire length becomes more significant... Higher the compression the higher the dielectric resistance and the smaller the gap should be. If you use crimp lugs I recommend "Tinning" the wire with a soldering iron prior to crimping, then after crimping the tinned wire in the lug, solder the crimped wire to the crimped lug. The slow effects of corrosion will take it's toll in time, increasing the voltage drop as the inevitable oxidation occurs. So, the normal (Untinned) wire to crimp lug connection, in time, will exceed the wire resistance losses and slowly degrade the spark. Also, when tinning the wire, make the solder go to the heat, place the solder iron on the tip of the wire and place the solder near the insulation and the solder will wick towards the iron and wont migrate under the insulation of the wire. john
  11. A_Rescue

    A_Rescue Project

    From the first time we saw each other...
  12. wow Vinnie is that you in both photos... priceless
  13. A_Rescue

    IMG_0567.jpg

    custom twin 3 inch stainless exhaust and headers
  14. A_Rescue

    IMG_0568.jpg

    new turbo 400 going in today...
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