Paul Bell

Hey Darren, welcome! The fuse amperages is marked on the fuse box.

My TH400 builder years ago said to use Royal Purple Max ATF. Something about it resisting foaming better than other fluids.

I'm glad it all worked out!

Although I’ve never worked on this thing, I think I understand how it works: The top lever is the main control and has a switch that interrupts power coming from the blower switch. The bottom lever has one more switch. I believe for the compressor to get power, both switches need to be closed (contacts closed).

I know in defrost or defog, the compressor runs to remove humidity from the air hitting the windshield.

I have it shown as the TCS relay plug. I believe 1972 cars had it in the dash near the radio. Is you car a 72?

A modification that can be undone won't hurt any value. Example: Remove the AC system including the underhood evaporator case without cutting or drilling the body and keep the parts in a box won't hurt the value because it can be undone with the original parts. Example. Cut, drill, weld or modify the body in any way that can't be undone OR toss those removed original parts and the car could lose value. Example: The best of both worlds, upgrade the system with new parts without body modifications and keep the original parts and you may INCREASE the value of the car.

Unless you're concerned with original looks, an aluminum radiator will do just fine. It's been said that aluminum radiators that have their core epoxied to the tanks won't last. My epoxied Griffin Racing radiator has been perfect for what must be 30 years now. If you have an automatic transmission and you're up to the change, an external transmission cooler is always better than the stock style in radiator tank cooler. Always use a plate style cooler, not the bent tube style cooler.

And some of them were LS6 four speed SS cars.

You are correct about the years GM produced the 445 block. It was made as a two bolt main or four bolt main bearing block. It was available as a bare case over the counter and it was used by GM to assemble over the counter engines all the way up LS6 and LS7 engines. I think it was used in some trucks, such as the first years of the 454SS pickup trucks before GM changed to the MkV block. It's considered a very stout block. I have this block in the four bolt main version. If yours is a four bolt main block, it'll have 3/4" and 1/2" pipe plugs above the oil filter boss. The yellow color

I'm looking for a driver's door lower molding, original part number 8701418. I want new, never used, NOS, of course. Name your price OR I'm willing to trade. I offer a PAIR, that's two, one left and one right forward fender moldings, NOS in the original packaging.

I think there's a difference between small block and big block engine harnesses-but I can't remember what it is just now. That makes two for small block and two for big block. The AC harness is an add-on separate harness not connected to anything in the engine of forward lighting harness.

Greg, what year is you car? There was a change made for 1972 cars. The motor gets full time key-on power. The dash switch provides different combinations of grounds that trigger the motor operating mode, park, slow, high. The motor has three terminals and the pump has two terminals. If you get the terminals mixed up or something else is wrong, you'll smoke a resistor in the motor. Parts store rebuilds are often for a later car and have an extra wire you'll need to fool with. They'll also often come without the arm or rubber grommets.

Yes, these shafts do "collapse". They're designed to in case of a frontal accident so the steering wheel doesn't knock your block off (like Corvairs did). They're filled with a plastic like what's used in driveshaft U-joints without snap rings. I suppose if you heat them just enough, a shorter Chevelle shaft can be made longer.

I have no clue where I got the drawing and photo from.