Paul Bell

I've discovered a slight problem-but it won't stop my work. The screw holes are further apart on my original. The mirror guts must also be different. I'm sure I can fix this.

I, and I’m sure a few others here, have been frustrated acquiring a right side bullet mirror. The usual way to do it is to get a bullet mirror from another vehicle and sand down the bottom of the pedestal and build up an angled gasket to get the angle right. This really doesn’t work well, the screw hole gets in the way and the mirror sits too low on the door. I have a “correct” one on my driver’s side, it’s a remote version. My idea is to have the pedestal scanned and reproduced by metal printing one-but in reverse. However, there appears to be two methods that the housing mounts to the pedestal. The top of my correct one is almost flat and the housing matches it. The two screws that secure the mirror in place also bolt the housing to the pedestal. The other type has a more pronounced stepped bump that keys deeper into the housing-and there’s an additional screw between the housing and pedestal. I can only find this type of right side bullet mirror. As the mirror screws holes are the same in both designs, I believe a reversed printed pedestal can be made to fit the differently mounted right hand housings. I’ll need to pay one company a not too small fee to do the scan then I’ll find out the printing cost from another company. After I’ve done all this and if it’s successful, I’ll be offering the pedestal to all here who wants one. Buyers will still need to acquire a right hand housing & mirror.

Whatever you do, use a roller camshaft. Besides no longer needing high zinc oil, the opening ramps are more aggressive. Engines are air pumps and need to breath.

It should be the same for 1968-1972 Chevelles so you can widen your search.

Don't lowball me, I know what I got!!!

Thomas nailed it, I got mine out and in with 3" tails in place. Get that car up good and high, empty tank, get a nice blanket on the floor, plenty lights, no drinking the night before and do some stretches first.

There's been a few changes since this shot.

No SS emblem on the tail of the 1970 SS car, 1971 only item.

I found this on Facebook, not sure if the poster, Chris Deel is a member here. https://thenewswheel.com/behind-badge-cryptic-origins-monte-carlo-red-knights-crest/

Bruce, I know you're the original owner of this car. If you have the Protect-O-Plate, the key codes are on it. They're also on the build sheet. An old school locksmith with the GM books from back then will be able to cut your key from the code. It's actually a hand held tool that punches out the notches in the key.

As usual, I couldn't find anything on the market that I had in mind so I made my own from stainless angle. It ran the wires along the bottom edge of the valve cover. My last engine photo here shows the boots I went with, they're from a Jeep and hold the wire pretty far away from the spark plug-and header primary. This worked well except for plug #8, of course. I'm using Granatelli Motor Sports solid core zero Ohm wires. They have a ferrite ring on them that eliminates RFI. I use these wires on all my vehicles.

It sounds like your trunk cylinder doesn't match the glove box cylinder. Take it and the key you want to use to a locksmith and they'll re-key it for you. Do you have a center console in this car? If yes, it's lock cylinder should be keyed alike to the glove box and trunk. You can buy a new set of cylinders but you'll need an engineering degree and a rocket scientist as an assistant who doesn't mind cuss words to remove & replace the glove box cylinder.

Hey Darren, welcome! The fuse amperages is marked on the fuse box.

My TH400 builder years ago said to use Royal Purple Max ATF. Something about it resisting foaming better than other fluids.

I'm glad it all worked out!