Paul Bell

You can get these: https://www.opgi.com/sheet-metal-body-panels/body-trunk-braces/steel-cage-nut-assembly/cage-nut-54-77-gm-complete-assembly-716-14-thread-c241477.html

My block finally got some love at the machine shop, I guess my guy super busy Glenn is getting tired of me harassing him to work on it. Piston rings were filed to fit and cam bearings were whacked in place. Tomorrow I'll wash the block & drop in the crank and it'll come home to MCG. Waiting on smaller rod bearings and I can get the short block assembled.

This guy does it: https://www.lever-family-racing.com/lever-family-racing-home/control-arms-version-2/gm-f-body-70-thru-81

Yessir, they all work together for a 1970 car. I think the 71/72 master cylinder takes care of the duties of the two line valves used on the 1970 car.

Mike, unless you need clearance for big valve covers on a big block, you should stay with the original full sized booster. As your master cylinder looks to be the correct original with bleeders, you should have a local shop rebuild it. Any traded in rebuilt unit won't have the bleeders. There was a discussion a few months back about the valve you're asking about. It's a residual pressure valve to keep a few PSI in the line to the rears to prevent the springs from fully retracting the shoes. There's also a valve in the rear that slows the buildup of pressure which allows the

They make them! https://www.opgi.com/chassis-suspension/bushings-mounts/control-arm-bushing-retainers10/retainers-control-arm-bushings-detva42.html

5/16" bolt with 1/2" head, same as fender & radiator panel bolts.

The steering shaft on a Monte Carlo is unique, it's length fits no other car. If it has a bolted shaft, it's very likely it was a big block car. However, it could be a 402 big block car so it's not "proof" a car was an SS. Having said this, it is possible to install a bolted shaft pulled from a big block Monte onto a small block car so it shouldn't be the only proof that a car was a big block car.

The vinyl break molding clip locations look to have holes. Were the clips riveted on? The factory clips slid onto studs that were welded to the roof. A dealership adding a vinyl top might attach the needed clips with rivets.

With 500+ HP (and obviously plenty torque) you'll wanna use it. Go with a 200 or even a 700/4L60E and you'll find out pretty quickly why GM put nothing less than a TH400 or 4L80E behind a big block. Work with a performance trans builder and they'll figure out what torque converter stall speed you need to work with your gears. The later 4L80E cases have the coolant return line in the rear, it shoots fluid returning from the cooler directly into the center support bearing. This is a plus for your power level. You'll need banjo style cooler adapter fittings to clear the trans tunne

As it's finally not blast furnace hot on a free day for me, I finally worked on my wiring harness. Consolidated wires, removed a few not needed and shortened a few. I'm setting up a system that kicks both fans on at full speed when the AC compressor comes on. The new engine needs a new converter. Add another thousand bucks to the list. 😟 Before & after:

Trunk & hood lights have a thing in them that turns the light off when the trunk or hood is shut.

These days, Proforged is the better brand.

I use O-ringed gaskets where I can. They're re-useable. I first coat them with Permatex High Tack (I put that stuff on everything). Never leaks. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2399

Dennis, do it right and it'll be stuck good. See my post above. I painted mine many years ago.